amp

Because you dont need to. Because the subs are rated for 600w of THERMAL power handling. Look at this page:

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30

Go to the bottom. You will see this:



Yes, notice that JL Audio's "optimum" power rating is only 250w.

You also need to remember that you rarely use much power. Efficiency is pretty low at 86db, but you have cabin gain, which typically adds 6-12db in car.

So 1w = 86db
2w=89db
4w=92db
8w=95db
16w=98db
32w=101db
64w=104db
128w = 107db
256w=110db (considered "reference level", and actually pretty loud) Add in the cabin gain, and you are rocking pretty hard at 116-122db.

500w only gives you 3db extra, or a nominal difference.

Also note that doubling cone area basically adds 3db as well, so that 3rd sub, on equal power, only gives you a 1.5db increase in peak volume. not even worth the time, unless you are competing. And if you are competing, this is the wrong sub to use...

So basically, 1000w, on 2 subs, should put you in the high 120s, and you will probably listen to it in the 90-95db range, as that is generally where many people listen to a "loud" stereo. (note that, at that volume, you may only be using 100-150w regularly for a pair...)

You have to decide what works for you, and meets your needs, but I would venture that if a pair are not loud enough, you should be looking into different subs...

Good luck!

 

sorry im still lost with this man>>>so if i get a 1000 watt amp how loug will this sound??? is there better subs meaning louder that will slam for my single cab truck if i dont get these subs??? wont it be better to get a 1200 watt amp so i dont have to turn it up all the way???

 

how do you set the bass gain on the amp with a knob???? do yuo turn the bass boost all the way up on the amp and control it with the knob or you only turn it half way or three quarter???

 

Well you keep mentioning getting a 1000-1200 watt amp....I hope you realize that only a selective few brands actually label their true power that the amp puts out. Most amps you buy say 1000...but in reality will never put out that amount of power. My kicker zx750.1 puts out no less then 750watts (in a way). So when looking at amps PLEASE look at what the RMS output is. As stated a few posts above me..try to match the optimum output. I worked in a car audio shop for years..

 

WOW....not to be all rude but are you fairly novice with audio equipment?

 

sorta??? i never ran a bass knob that why??? never had a mono amp with that much power.

 

Bass knobs generally work one of 2 ways. Either a gain knob, or a bass boost knob. Knowing which you have will make it much easier to determine how to set it up.

how much depth do you have behind the seats, both top and bottom of the area you are willing to give up for the subs?

 

most of or all man in a 05 single cab. yeah the amps say 1500 watt rms. i was gonna get a box similar to this one if not than custom made.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JL-A...a9QQitemZ260739875497QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo

 

up

 

Before stating what you NEED, I suggest a basic knowledge of car audio should be your first NEED. As I said... pie in the sky. No offense to the OP but none of your thoughts or rationalizations make logical sense.

 

why?? elaborate for me man......

 

Lets examine:

Idea: I NEED 1200 watts becasue 1000 watts is not enough.

Yet you dont have speakers that NEED 1200 watts. 1200 Watts wont give you substantially more volume over 1000 watts even if the speakers could handle either amp. Its just a number you picked up because you multiplied the max RMS you saw on a piece of paper of a sub you saw and multiplied by 2.

Honelstly, lots of power is not a big deal for loud bass. Its just one small part. I had a sysltem with 220 Watts of power for the subs and 2 subs. It was a Linear Power 2202IQ amp. It was by far one of the loudest 2 speaker sub set ups I have ever heard. People would look to see where that boom was coming from 2+ blocks away. The speakers were just crazy efficient and had HUGE cone area and didnt need much power. That system was so loud neighbors tried to call the police and tell them they had items on their shelves vibrate off and fall when my truck drove by... now I dont believe that for a minute but not only did my system vibrate MY rear view mirror to the point of being useless, it vibrated the rear view mirror of the car in front of me at stop lights to the point of being useless... and thats just 220 Watts.

Speaker placement makes a HUGE difference in how the sound is amplified by in cabin gain. I happened to have 15" subs in the perfect posisiton that were crazy efficient. My 500 watts going to my 2 10" subs in the Tacoma pales in comparison. 2 13.5" 13TW5 speakers with 1000 watts is going to be some hard hitting bass. This search for the mythical 1200 watt amp is futile. If you want more bass you are better off sacrificing rear seats and going with more cone area and deeper, more efficient subs.

How much bass is enough? My really inefficent 10s with 500 watts still vibrates and tickles your soft tissues and hair and vibrates the rear view mirror, though its still usefull. Its not something that will make it uncomfortable to swallow or produce spontaneous nose bleeds but you are unlikely to get that in a Tacoma with subs behind the rear seat simply due to airspace and depth issues. I am 99% sure youd be VERY happy with 1000 watts and 2 13TW5 speakers. If not, a Tacoma just makes for a poor sound system platform from almost every angle. You need to do a lot of modyfyig to get better speakers, more depth, and more airspace... which is about 10X as important as getting an amp more powerful than 1000 watts.

It is very obvious that you need to get more experience with different items and understand the basic electronic and mathmatical rules governing car audio.

If 1000 Watts is not enough I submit you need 3 ported 12" subs or 2 ported 15" subs and remove the rear seats, which would be similar in output to each other (3x12 and 2x15). It would also be probable that such a set up would be like having 4 of those 13TW5 subs sealed, running off 2 of your 1200 watt amps due to the difference in efficiency and cone area. It could be even louder because you have more flexibility on placement to deal with in cabin gain.

If you cant wait for the knowledge to build your system just listen to thsoe with more experience and dont try to think you KNOW what you want or need. What would be even better is Id suggest taking a few months and doing heavy research on car audio forums for a couple hours each day and asking lots of questions as you learn so you actually DO know what you want and need.

 

remember now i have a single cab.....how loud are these subs??? do they bum meaning you can hear them from far away. is the bass really deep??? no one down here has some that why so i can go and listen to them.also isnt it better to have a 1200 watt amp instead because i can tune the amp lower so it doesnt clip right???? gains??

 

up

 

if you are on oahu go check out naka audio, security and sounds and progressive auto sounds. they all sell different shallow mount subs since space is limited in a reg cab. naka audio carries re audio, image dynamics and pioneer. security and sounds sells rockford, alpine and dd audio. progressive sells jl audio, kenwood and re audio. all these brands have shallow mount subs, but i'm not sure if they have any to demo. also naka audio and progressive sell rainbow speakers. not to sound like a prick, but it's best to go down to a shop with your limited knowledge.

 

k thanks mannnnn.....how the prices?????

 

Not to be a dick, but why so much power in a reg. cab, one of the JL HD900's should work well and its small and should drive a couple subs well, just remember once your blow your hearing its gone and good hearing aides are over $3k, here is the OSHA noise exposure.

TABLE G-16 - PERMISSIBLE NOISE EXPOSURES (1)
______________________________________________________________
|
Duration per day, hours | Sound level dBA slow response
____________________________|_________________________________
|
8...........................| 90
6...........................| 92
4...........................| 95
3...........................| 97
2...........................| 100
1 1/2 ......................| 102
1...........................| 105
1/2 ........................| 110
1/4 or less................| 115

 

it's not as cheap as online, but you do have warranty and you will be able to take it to them if you ever run into problems. i buy my stereo stuff online all the time, but it is a pain when something breaks and i need to send it back to the mainland.

 

sorry lost with this table..........

 

Table just shows in hours how long you can listen without damage, so 95dB is only 4 hours a day.