Long Travel BS Thread

Overall violent rear suspension. Dead loss in the ice chest (punctured water bottles from shaking). I could care less about "blasting whoops" as most of our rides are Nevada desert with all terrain, mostly rocks. If I can get it to handle grapefruit size rocks I'd be happy.

 

What is your rebound side like? I found that adding rebound smoothed things out a bunch on choppy stuff. I know lots of guys swear by the 15/8, but that was wicked harsh on similar chop.

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-8HZGAp8G4/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

 

all tubes closed
compression
2X.0.015
0.010X1.350 FLUTTER
2X0.015
0.015
0.015
0.015
0.015
Rebound
0.012
0.012
0.012
0.012
0.012
0.012

 

Gotcha, you're limited with just two tubes unfortunately. You're trying to get good ride quality out of the ride zone but also need to ramp up in the bump. Have you considered adding a comp tube to offer more adjustment?

 

think it is more meant for the 2024 Toyota vehicles, the tacoma uses a big + offset wheel

 

This.

 

I have but race car and other hobbies. So I just live with what I have.

 

must resist....

https://classifieds.race-dezert.com/FOR-SALE:King-Bypasses-210605

 

They talk a little bit about it on their Insta in the comments but it's specifically to accomodate their portals which get pretty wide at +3.5" per side on stock suspension.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C-3ayAcy4Pu/

 

Not an ideal tube layout for your application.

 

oh I know, but price is pretty good...

 

You can get things pretty good with what you have imo. I’m on single tube free bleeds. And while they are no longer adequate for me, I have things working very well. How deep is the shaft at ride height? 18” seems very long for a leaf setup.

 

Free bleeds front & rear?

 

Front and rear. And they work pretty dang good. But are an absolute nightmare to get the hang of.

 

Missing some diameters?

Well opening the adjusters reduces damping a bit in that ride zone, but if its small chop thats really harsh, making the piston behave a bit more progressively at low piston speeds might be what you want. Throwing a flutter on rebound too may help a bit, as well as decreasing the diameter of the comp flutter shim some. Personally I'd also increase the thickness or double stack the shims after the flutter so that you could actually start opening those bypass tubes and tune them.

 

Have you considered that what you've been struggling with from a ride quality perspective is the limited flow out of a single 5/8" tube?

 

I’m not struggling with anything? My struggle was the rear bump zone being too aggressive with the valving I needed. Which is now resolved thanks to some bleed holes.

 

Depending on how worn my springs are. I'm almost 8" up as it sits now with newer springs. It will cycle 18" the way it was built. Also running 4" bumps.

 

How possible is it you’re engaging your bumps before or at the same time you’re entering the bump zone? I know shortening my 4” to 2” made a big difference for me. The way I’m setup now I’m almost 2” into the bump zone before I hit my hydros. It made for a nice smooth transition.