Long Travel BS Thread

I’m just ready to take this thing out this season. Hoping to have it ready mid-September to go do some shock tuning.

 

Hopefully the Hell Hot climate will be subsided by then.

 

I'd like to see your solution on how to tie in the rear sliders to the Frame Brace, I still need to deal with that.

 

Literally this.

 

We've done several in the shop at this point. We cut the mounting plate and rear arm, then reweld it set back a quarter inch, then bolt back on

 

That is exactly what I'm recommending, introducing a soft spot at low shaft speeds, with the "softer" side on the compression side, followed by an increased thickness or more larger shims after the crossover shim to make the damping firm up quickly with increased shaft speeds, and let the bypasses do some work.

Its similar to adding free bleeds as it softens both directions a bit, but dissimilar in that theres no (potential) change to peak shaft speed, and its also not permanent. Unless the piston has threaded plugged free bleeds already, then some of those could be opend up...

If he was on coils, I'd probably recomend a little more rate over changing rebound shims, but since he is on leafs, with a single shock, changing shims is necessary.

I've been working mostly with dished pistons with a preload shim in there too lately, which probably skews my opinion since the preload on the first shim is also tuneable...

Yeah the thicker and smaller the diameter the bigger the range of shaft speeds there will be soft damping...


But its just my .02c, it seems like he needed less low speed damping and more high speed damping.

 

Biggest thing I’ve noticed is leaf springs like lots of flow. But also require decent valving to be butter on bigger hits. A flutter does a good job at achieving more flow at initial “opening” of the shim. If more is needed for softening the initial hit, bleed works well without impacting high speed movements too much. Numerical bit set and gradually open things up.

 

Completely agree, if he didn't have bypasses that were all the way closed, bleeds and/or more drastic valving changes would make sense

 

Crayon good, is tasty.

Is this digressive valving? If not, what's the difference?

 

Yeah, the dished piston is part of how to get digressive damping curve.

 

Im Lerning, slowly but surely

 

Quote from reply on delay with shipping:

Looks like they are in the works. Looks like there was 1 that needed to be made so my team is in the process of getting that complete for you.

Webpage has to be wrong....

 

They're 45lbs a piece... holy shit

 

I guess thats bad?

 

Beadlocks are heavy
And unsprung weight wears out parts quicker
So logic is you want “lighter” beadlocks for off-roading cause hubs and such

 

Current wheels are 40 lbs and tires are 60(c rated), previous were 51 and tires were 65( e rated) lbs
I figured 5 more lbs wouldn't make a difference

I mean I am heavy already Front 2700 LBS and Rear 2800LBS

 

The issue is sprung vs unsprung weight.

https://www.valoroffroad.com/blogs/the-source/how-wheel-weight-impacts-your-vehicle

5lb of unsprung weight can make a big difference on wear on components. I mean, so can jumping your truck and we do that anyway, but people do tend to try to optimize wheel weight.

 

I was surprised to see a forged alum wheel that was that heavy, totally get beadlocks being heavier but people usually choose forged aluminum because it is stronger and features can be made smaller (and lighter) without compromising strength. 45lbs is heavy for any alum wheel forget forged ones. Mine aren't beadlocks but the wheels are only 26lbs.

 

For reference, my method 101 beadlocks are 37.34lb per wheel.