Time to cut losses?

@Ozark_RegCab

I'm glad you still roll with the punches, we give you A LOT of shit (me especially) in the other thread so I'm glad you don't let it get you down.

But I have to say it here in this thread, it isn't fair to the many people in this thread that you ask any of these questions. Why? Because you've asked all this before, countless times, for over a year and a half now.

The same answers, by different people.

Part numbers, video how-to's, schematics, you've been given everything countless times.

It wasn't fair to many of us that you wasted our time, and we brushed it off after awhile (and call you crazy) but to see others take the time to try and help you? Why?

You're not doing it on your own. These people don't know that; they haven't been fed the 1,000 excuses why you won't DIY. At least you haven't stated why you won't here...yet.

You're not going to get the work done, even though you've received good quotes on both parts and labor; you'll find another 1,000 excuses why you won't.

Paralysis analysis my dude, you are the epitome of it.

Stop wasting everyone's time here, you actually have some good people here.

 

Upselling?

No... that doesn't sufficiently describe what was going on there bro.

 

I see your point about the indecision on other things like the rack, suspension, etc., but I hadn't ever asked about the third member having to come out for the pinion seal on this forum before today. @Wulf is the only one who seemed to agree with what the shop owner told me this morning about the supposedly "right way" to replace the seal.

I suppose I should've just searched old threads instead of asking here, however. I'll just do that from now on instead of updating this thread or the other one.

 

There is absolutely nothing wrong in asking questions and seeking honest advice, etc.

The difference is here that you do that about your rack, lower ball joints, hell it took you about a year to finally get rid of dry rotted tires that were unsafe to drive on since day 1.

I'm surprised you haven't complained about your 17mpg again (even though you've got a lift and heavier tires).

Same song and dance my dude, only thing is you have a lot of other people investing time/effort to help you and you're not going to rectify your driveshaft issue either.

 

Oh I’m definitely getting a new one built. The only question is whether I go with Adam’s or the local driveshaft shop. The former would get me lifetime warranty and maybe a cheaper price due to their greater volume, but I do like to support a local business. Either one sounds like a better option than taking my chances with a CarDon’t off RockAuto.

 

I look forward to it!

Please get that truck up and running like normal. And take the information that's been shared here and take it upon yourself to decide if it's worth buying tools for, and learning to do it on your own or paying a shop.

But do something.

 

I figured I’d update the thread, since the situation has changed. Someone above said cutting losses should be reserved for major engine issues and the like.

Well now the truck is in need of new cylinder heads. The annoying part is I found this out after I had the mechanic replace the timing components and fan bracket, thinking that was causing a misfire. He seems convinced that the bottom end is still good though.

I can’t really afford to do all that work right now in addition to everything else it needed before it broke down. It’s also surprisingly hard to get a straight answer on the best place to source cylinder heads. I don’t really feel like this is worth going into debt over.

 

What's the current mileage?

 

250k. It’s already on its second engine, so I’m not sure what mileage the motor has.

 

Did you ever notice any metal specs/particles in the engine oil drain catch pan ?

 

Actually I did see some metal shavings on the magnetic drain pan the first oil change I did about a year and a half ago. Nothing after that though.