Long Travel BS Thread

Their race series finned reservoirs are much different than the prerunner series. That’s why.

 

You see them because those guys need every ounce of gain they can get to be competitive. Their race programs cost more per year than most of us will see in a lifetime. Even if it’s a teeny tiny gain (which is likely the case) it’s worth it to them.

 

Had to or they smacked the tires 2.5x16 3 tube layout 3 I think?

 

Noted, I am more than likely going to rotate mine as I hit my tubes now

 

All this bed cage talk, I do have my old DMZ cage for sale if anyone is interested. For a short bed.

 

There is a thread on RDC about costs associated with racing and there are TT Spec guys saying minimum $141 per mile! I can't imagine what big team TT's spend. For comparison, my Class 9 costs are under $7.50 per mile.

 

Our costs for last years Vegas to Reno was close to 80k ..includes Full Prep of the 6100 that we do mostly ourselves, fuel, lodging, food and travel for the crew

 

$145.45 per mile if you finished.

 

I always laugh when we buy Race Fuel in California, we have to say it's for a boat

 

I want it but shipping is the killer for me.

 

Wouldn’t shock me if it’s even more in these current times. And I doubt that counts food, lodging or travel.

 

I had it posted up for free for a while and nobody wanted it so I cut it up and put it in the scrap bin.

 

I'm about to do the same... or trade for welding lessons!

 

Any Pics?

 

When getting a die for my JD2 do I need to pick the smallest CLR die for 1.5 inch tubing for building a bedcage?

 

I would go 1.75. Smaller CLR= tighter bend with more outside wall thickness variation. Bigger= bigger bend with less outside wall thickness variation.

All a preference thing. Mostly I use small CLR dies.

 

a lot of bender companies will list what thickness is max or min per clr so as long as what you want to bend is in that tolerance your good but yeah smaller clr for tighter bends so a lot of time you can’t bend thicker tube on a smaller clr due to deformation.

 

Considering bumping off the UCA bolt as I get further into the engine cage and fender situation. Anyone know if the bolt head strike plate adapter is something available, or do I need to plan on machining myself? Didn't have any luck googleing, but I honestly don't know what you'd call the piece.

Photo for reference. Black piece on top of the UCA uniball.

 

i like the smaller radius dies because you can get a large radius bend by playing around with multiple smaller bends, like 15 degrees at a time - move a couple inches - 15 degrees again. Not perfect bends but it works. Not really any tricks for making tighter bends when you don't got a lot of space to work with

 

Am I seeing things right that Holley performance bought out ADS?