Braking still not easy

Most likely if failed it stayed in current state.

Might not free up until some heavy load.....
and then might stick at that heavy position...

Me thinks most of these fail from outside in.....environmental damage/exposure


my under chassis is super clean, so mines good for another 5 or so years...
and then I'll look for controlcar's thread......and do exactly what he did...

I'll mount it on the firewall/wheel fender area

 

WOW
I totally forgot how many members helped me
Thanks again to all!!!!

treyus
Real good info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lspv-delete-correct-return-lines.820615/

 

Biovauc mentioned the same in my thread

 

So I am a little confused on what the final solution is.

Yellow connects to the LSPV
Red connects to the front driver brake
Blue ultimately goes to the MC

Am I supposed to cap off the lefthand yellow and use the righthand to go into the rear softline? What is the threadsize?

 

I deleted mine for several reasons, it was causing issues bleeding the brakes, I thought it was pretty much useless, and I wanted the front brakes to be independent of the rear brakes if a line failed.
I followed this thread when I did mine. I should add that I do not have a proportioning valve, and it seems to stop just fine.
How-To: LSPV delete - YotaTech Forums

 

To be 100% sure
Need to trace the return line from the LSPV to the frame mounted fitting closest to rad(front one…with 3 hard lines)

 

These did not address the question

 

Yellow arrow should be where cap goes
(On my 96 no abs)
That is the return line from LSPV

 

Our (import) female threaded b line fittings are 10mm X 1.0

 

Got some old M10 brake line junctions and weld the other end shut. Quick and easy to cap off lines this way to make everything replaceable.

 

Anyone with more experience than me, can I use an M10-1.0 bolt to plug the 3 way union, or will it leak without the inverted flare end?

 

They seal at the end so you’ll need a tube nut welded at the back. It’ll seal on the threads to some degree with Teflon tape but to what degree idk nor would I want to find out the hard way.

 

finding out will be easy. especially when you slammed on the brakes and the pedal go straight to the floor and your traveling 70+mph.

Value the other person’s life at a minimum and do it correct

 

Like this?

$11 Joywayus 2pcs M10x1 Thread Stainless Steel Rods By CNC Hex Head Corrosion Resistant Plugs Pipe Fitting

https://www.amazon.com/Joywayus-Sta...8193437&mcid=a900dbe9f417356c96d60d746dddf22b

 

Yeah you need a nut with the inverted flare nipple at the end just like a line would have on it.

 

Ahhhhh…..I see^^^^^

better?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...VyNbCBB3AoTm-EAQYECABEgJFe_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I bought these to weld one shut

4LIFETIMELINES Stainless Steel Brake Line Tube Nut, 3/16 (M10x1.0 Inverted), Bag of 10

$13 4LIFETIMELINES Stainless Steel Brake Line Tube Nut, 3/16 (M10x1.0 Inverted), Bag of 10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q6GSYPW

 

Done.

 

Seems easier to retain it especially if you ever plan to have anything in the bed. They work and IMO are important. But if you never haul anything, probably ok.

 

So these ended up not being the most well thought about solution. Naturally there was a poor seal because I didn't have a inverted (double) flare end so it leaked (just like a bolt might have). I just ended up bending the lines and using a 2 way M10-1.0 IF union. I also bent the rear lines into a Wilwood PV while I was at it -- results are noticeable! (Though its almost fully closed like a full deletion would be). That was much easier than I feared! Only two parts, no special tools or custom lines.

Did not get to checking my brake shoes but still plan to.