Well, I Guess The OEM TRD Electrical System Can Only Handle About 325-350A, lol

Between the Sub and 4 Chan amps, they are pulling about 325Amps steady current. Even with:
- 0ga OFC "big 3" upgrade
- 0ga OFC ground wire from battery to the engine block
- 0ga OFC ground wire from the battery to the Frame
- 0ga OFC ground wire from the battery to the Body
- 0ga OFC power wires to each amps
- 0ga OFC ground wire from each directly to the frame

The OEM TRD Alternator and battery can't handle it!

Obviously time to upgrade the alternator, any suggestions?

Anyone running capacitor banks?

 

Well, a tuner is able to increase the charging volts of the stock alternator. Or you can try aftermarket with an AGM battery

 

Are you surprised? Your poor 130a alternator probably glows from the stress. Dude that's like 4500 watts

You probably need dual alternators and dual batteries...

 

Yeah man, definitely overworking it. 350 amps * 12 volts = 4200 watts. My stock electrical hates my modest 1200 watt sub and amp with only 400 more watts to door speakers. Poor truck. Already have another alternator on order. No clue how yours is still alive. How does your truck not die on high output sections of songs?

 

Oh yeah we're going to need to see some photos of what you're running!

 

How are you possibly pulling that many amps on just audio and still have functional ears?

 

I wish I could like this post multiple times

 

I’m hitting a solid 135-137 at 42 hz and my ears aren’t any worse for wear. You have to think about the occasional loud song as a treat, like a beer after a long day of work. Do it all day every day and you’ll hurt something. Moderation is key

 

I have the tow package.

 

Are any of those aftermarket alternators that claim 250-300 amps legit? Anyone try one?

 

As a person with significant hearing loss due to years of listening to loud music and shooting guns with no hearing protection, I hope you are 100 yards away from that truck when the stereo is playing.

 

+10 to see what the hell is crammed into this truck. I have one 12" alpine sub behind my passenger seat and that's plenty for me. Jeeeeebus

 

I know it comes from the 2nd Gen - but crazy cats this thread was sumthun else

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-3rd-4th-alternator.795403/

 

dcpowerinc.com had an alternator available, but their web site is currently down. They also mis spec their product at idle. Iirc they say idle is 750rpm, our trucks run 550-600.

Seen this Toyota mentioned a few times at 180amps 27060-OP420 ~$300

 

Going to install a DC Engineering alt next weekend.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/products...fks-v6?rq=yr_2021~mk_toyota~md_tacoma~le_3-5l

197 amps at idle will be plenty for me.

 

I was worried about the idle RPM but my system isn’t nearly as big as his. I’d guess maxed out I can’t be pulling more than MAYBE 2k watts.

 

On the DC Power website, which is one again up and running, in the Technical FAQ section at the bottom of the main pages they discuss that engine speed is approximately a third of the Alternator speed rotation due to pully ratios. So, a 550-600RPM idle is about 1600-1800RPM Alternator speed and thus an idle output of less than 157Amps. Good enough for my usage. Can't say for anyone else's usage. DC Power also discusses custom pully sizes and measuring the crank shaft pully diameter for them to get the best fit for your application.

 

what are you running?

can't help without more details.

 

How did you get this data, are you using something like a Toyota tech stream tablet?

 

sure looks like scangauge 3 or similar OBD monitoring product.

those can be finicky sometimes as well for how they read and present min/max values.