1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

He has digi throttle, Haltech not controlling... Same as @austinmtb

 

Yeah That... I'll turn it back off

 

Ahh

 

Crazy idea.. make a flange, weld to intake plenum, then use Iacv of your choice to fine tune Dvw idle imperfections in piggy mode. 5vz or 1jz valve, or something else possibly.

 

I mean you could do that but it would always be messing around on its own because the other iac is always adjusting independently. It'd be like impossible to get a base duty cycle

 

I'm saying just use it when idle drops below X value. Like a stall saver.

 

Oh okay, yeah that might work. You can get a two-wire or a three wire BAC valve out of just about any old '90s BMW

 

I'd also like to note that I'm still getting a P1301 code as well.

 

That's likely the cause of longer starts, usually a start just takes a key bump to get going.

Anywho, I'm on here if someone needs something but I'm working on a lot of local builds at the moment. Working on a product for the mechanical speedometer folks (pickups and 4runners prior to 1995 and tacomas prior to 1998). Some good old fashioned hardware debounce since I cannot define a filter in the Haltech that can deal with bouncing reed switches.

 

I've not seen the tables for e-pedal control. You must have several things that tell it what to do when it's at 0%?

Hate to say it, but if you're not going to put in the time to learn how it all works yourself I agree you should pay someone before you get stuck somewhere.

 

On another note, I decreased the decel cutoff to 1100RPM a week ago to no ill effects. Seemed to have picked up an mpg even. Might even try 1050 or 1000 since it likes to hover there at speeds slightly above my 25mph cutout.

The torque converter is such a hog too. My idle trims 'in gear' have skyrocketed. Definitely a good idea to put that axis in if you can on an automatic.
Also reduced my base idle RPM from 750 to 650 and I think I like it better.

 

There's no tables for e-pedal control on his, it isn't being controlled by the Haltech. His Haltech can only see the TPS actual value to do it's enrich and whatever else is assigned to TPS demand. But yeah I'd agree it needs a full tune now. It's probably pretty close in a lot of places since I gave him a fairly well defined 5VZ map but it is going to be missing things related to idle and steady state... probably could use a lot of zero demand maps defined (since I normally avoid using those I didn't have any configs on hand to start him off with) to help with the no idle control and maybe turn on ign only idle control for small corrections.

 

Which decel value have you been adjusting... I've been wanting to refine mine a good bit for a while

 

I see. In that case I'm shocked he's even gotten this far. So he TPS/RPM ignition tables?

 

What? No it's still pressure over RPM like normal haha, it just essentially believes he has a cable throttle with no IAC. Which isn't uncommon in the racing world.

 

I can get you a screenshot maybe later, but I basically dropped the "Decel Min RPM" -350RPM/sec at operating temp cells to 1100 and kept the -800RPM/sec a little higher. And tweaked the cut delay time table a smidge (which I've felt kick in so might be a tad aggressive now)

 

Ok so no real correction tables in place for TPS or zero demand then, just the base ignition table?

 

Ah okay, I wondered if those derivative axis numbers were in need of an adjustment to really dial mine in, have to imagine inertia of the engine crank/flywheel/clutch/drivetrain (when in gear) play a role in whether those are right for the application or not

 

Yeah he doesn't have any zero demand tables configured. Not sure what I'd use TPS for in a correction, but he's using TPS for decel cut and I'd like to see what the TPS does at idle to see if I can use it for a zero demand IGN and FUEL table to help make a persistent idle. Might vary too much with the stock ECU moving it and he's at higher elevation so swings would be larger too, might have to use MAP value to determine zero demand steady state.

 

Ya I would imagine a manual might be a tad more complicated to set up properly too. The auto LOVES the 1000-1500 RPM range. The only time I have fast -RPM/sec is when I'm in high RPMs, and by the time the cut delay has been reached, it's slowed down significantly anyway, so the -800RPM/sec row is probably rarely used at all...but still useful for interpolation ig