Anyone into R/C?

I was thinking about what you're saying but you don’t understand me. I can't ever seem to leave anything alone. Brass, extended links, servos...my wife would kill me. Wait she's right over there. Let's have some fun. I'll broach the subject and see what happens.

15 minites later; Well that was a terrible idea. Somehow that deteriorated to the point that I have to go cut the boganvias in the backyard! Some jokes just aren't funny. Some jokes just aren't funny. Some jokes just aren't funny....I'm out.

 

What's wrong with it?

Yeah... I'm hundreds of dollars deep in my Redcat.

I've already done:

-Body
-Wheels/tires
-Links
-Driveshafts
-Portal gears
-Brass portal boxes
-Brass diff covers
-Furitek brushless system

Now I'm waiting for:

-Aluminum axle housings
-Heavier wheels
-Brass servo mount and horn
-Shocks/springs

I also have a new NSDRC

$73 RS100 (A: Champagne)

RS100 servo to put in when the new parts come in. The only thing stock left are the frame rails.

 

First the motor died so I swapped in the FMS high-speed motor which killed the front driveshaft and diff. Ditched the FMS motor, installed an Injora purple, added FMS metal trans gears, metal diff gears, and Injora driveshafts, and have since been unable to get it to shift in and out of high/low without getting caught between gears. Have tried the plastic shift fork with the metal trans gears, adjusted shift points, rebuilt the gearbox 3x, etc all to no avail. If this new transmission doesn't solve it I'm returning the parts to Amazon, disassembling the whole thing, and using the parts on other rigs.

 

What's the issue with it? I swapped the metal gears into mine and it wouldn't go into first gear. The shift fork wasn't pushing the selector into the first gear mechanism far enough, so I put a shim under the 1st gear gear and it works fine now:



(sorry for the blurry picture)

 

Sounds like a similar issue but it doesn't go into either gear and/or gets lost in-between them. Seems like something just doesn't line up. How thick was the shim? I've read a bunch about the FMS metal gears being too thick but never too thin

 

Well, shoot.

Everything you could do wrong when trimming, painting, and decaling a shell, I did wrong.

After painting, stripping, painting again, and still doing bad, I think I salvaged it enough to be passable. That is at least until I decide to buy a spare shell and new paint.

Still, this thing is a laugh riot. I was not happy that it only fits a FWD chassis, but it still skids and does donuts if I want it to. I'm happy with its handling for something I put zero upgrades in.








Next up in my goofy "miniaturize the garage" project: The wife's car proved to be more difficult to find. It exists, but the kit has been out of production for a few years. I did find a blank shell on eBay, so that will be the next build. It's getting mated to the 4wd chassis in this BRZ kit.

 

Here’s the FCX24 replacement gearbox. Feels nice and heavy, just need to put the Injora motor into it and should be ready for install into the chassis. Even came with the metal shift arm. Updates to come…

 

Got my new to me SCX10 going with my son yesterday. He basically stole it from me so I was playing with his Bronco.

Untitled by MJH Creations, on Flickr
Untitled by MJH Creations, on Flickr

 

Which do you like more?

 

To be honest the Bronco is easier to drive and use due to it's features. High/low range, selectable lockers really make it feel more authentic. Also the portals help clear a lot more sticks and roots easier vs the honcho that has the diffs down low in the center. But I also like the challenge so I like that the honcho might be tougher, and considering the bronco is like almost double the price and way newer it makes sense it has more features.

 

Looking good! There are a LOT of other m-scale chassis you can put that Miata body on. FYI, the traditional Tamiya m-scale chassis with odd numbers are FWD and even are RWD. You can get an M-06 or the newer M-08 and have a a RWD platform if you'd like. If you want to go with a low-cost RWD chassis, MST has a few m-scale platforms including a drift chassis. There are numerous AWD chassis out there, too. I'm building my Miata replica on a 3Racing Sakura m-scale AWD chassis.

 

Amain has 20% off today for everything not on sale (and of course not from a company that doesn't allow coupons), didn't realize the latter so went from potentially buying a bunch of parts for the 1/16 E-Revo to now not buying anything haha

 

Yeah, I have about $100 in my wish list on Amain, but I gotta hold off. I'm still trying to save some funds so I'd feel comfortable going to Pro-Line by the Fire on the 20th.

 

That always looks like a good time

 

It's about a 6 hour drive and I could easily make it a week long trip with all the interesting stuff in that area.

 

Finally got my rod ends to go with my new rear links. I'm sitting at 321mm for my wheelbase.

 

Noob question, how do you guys clean the mud and dirt from the electrical components?

 

All my stuff is waterproof, so garden hose for me.

 

Air compressor

 

I quit the mud on both Tacoma and RC vehicles, its too much work. On the chance do get some mud I use hose. I just use light paint brushes in 3 different sizes 99% of the time.