1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

There's always that guy. He looks like he's having a good time.

 

@Wulf

 

glad to see they all made the trip !

 

Guess you need 2.5 tons and 60s

 

Would also solve world hunger

 

anybody have thoughts on the apparently billet uniball cups on some of total chaos' latest stuff vs a weldment?
still trying to finalize my design for a lower ball joint flip on the 1st gen spindle.

 

No thoughts other than it looks stout. Total Chaos stuff is usually quality if it's a builder part. Their fitment on application specific stuff however usually leaves a lot to be desired for a "premium" product.

 

yeah I'm wondering if they can offer it... reaching out via email.

the appeal of uniball or BJ in compression vs tension after you have dropped a few is significant lol.

if it doesn't work out, I may convert my front end to 2/3G

 

I mean, Ive got machining connections if you wanted to have a few spherical joint cup mounts made with various feet or weldable tabs on them. I personally don't think the ball joints are a big enough issue to convert the front to 2nd Gen style, I think you should do that because of the better geometry and wider suspension choice offerings. If you just don't want the ball joint to explode get the anonymous fab or TC spherical joint conversion.

 

comically a local guy got one of those conversions (anonymous I believe) and pulled the uniball thru in under a year... Idk why he didn't notice/do anything about the slop, but those are a bad solution when salt/brine are common.

I like my lemons difficult?

 

Salt and brine locations are the wrong ones in which to be driving a classic Toyota truck haha. But I hear ya. Probably not the right option for folks that still daily drive their trucks.

 

yeah they are a good upgrade for ultimate strength for those who are absolutely beating their shit...

I'm still in this weird "mini raptor" build mindset, not full kill race truck, but more than it has been for the past 10 years

 

You and I have similar build goals when it comes to the ideas. You can do a lot with the mid travel but you'll never overcome the harshness entirely until you start going long travel on everything. I'm not sure I'd think about calling it a mini raptor build until you start going longer travel and longer arms especially. I dunno, we have very different ways of reaching the goal. I can't justify retrofitting such a hugely different front end to continue running stock style suspension. Rather just do long travel that's designed for this truck and pulls the same numbers as a second gen and just retrofit the larger diff. Then you get the comfort and much less work, and way greater tunability. Dialing in the stock short arm suspension always feels like you got stuffed into a compromise you thought was good. Either it's great on street and harsh on rocky terrain, or good on street and most dirt but you'll loose teeth in the rocks or a huge pothole, or awesome in the rocks but a bowl of mashed potatos on the road. Mind you it can be pretty good all around but certainly not Raptor level. I've ridden in and driven some of the best configures first gens out there and they're so much better than stock and enough for most people but the little stuff bothers me like I think it bothers you too. It's just not good enough even when configured really well. LT is the only answer I came to, that rode excellent in all conditions and provided the tunability I desired.

 

Completely agree.

I need to document my build a bit... LT with Raptor Live valve shocks is whats in the works. I've been pretty disappointed with the chevy 63 rear and am planning going to go to a JT Link setup in the rear to eek a bit more travel out of it... which now has me overthinking a cage

 

The travel out of the 63s for me has been great, and the comfort. But I'm with you looking at doing canoe trailing arms on it in the future. I just have to find a way to hold the weight. My next two big things aren't entirely suspension related though right now, truck does decent enough at everything that I'm working on a camper style bed delete and changing that up will let me put in 14" shocks where I want which should give me 16" of vertical which only limits me by .5" over what I measured without shocks in place with the 63s. Hoping to save weight in some aspects and gain more room and ease of use. Truck is just a camping/trip/dirt cart toy for me so it's time it gets easier to use as such. Hoping the camper leaves me room to put in a center mount f150 tank with the driveshaft relief in it. Center mounted 32gal tank would be great for weight balance left to right and front to back and eliminate the need for extra fuel cans

 

Yeah I think the raptor shock constraint (12.3") is whats pushing me to links sooner... I just ordered a JT Coil spring to try out, but it would likely require Bags to deal with full camper weight.

I'm thinking more like this for fuel https://exitoffroad.com/product/5th-gen-4runner-lexus-gx460-long-range-auxiliary-fuel-tank-24gal/

 

Had to get my alignment fixed again, last shop left my tie rod lock nut loose. shop is heavily suggesting new wheel bearing since the tire has maybe 1/8th vertical movement. Is that as dangerous as they say? They’re saying I’ll be stranded in the middle of the desert if I don’t pay them now

 

Ouchie on the price, I don't want to hang more weight at the very end of the truck if I can help it, plus I tend to hit that spot coming down ledges and stuff because I refuse to make my truck stupidly tall. Getting rid of the stock tank is good too cause then there's room for links

 

If it's genuinely the bearing, yeah that's bad news bears.