Clutch replacement recommendations

I'm only at 73k miles and I'm getting high revs with slippage/loss of power. Going to replace my slave cylinder tonight, but in preparation for the next step if that doesn't resolve it... I'm wondering if anyone has used the following kit from advancedclutch.com or if I should just roll with the Centerforce dual friction clutch? Long story short, SOMEONE ELSE drove my truck for like 30k of these 73k miles and I abused the crap out of it towing 12' Uhauls from Denver -> Vail or Steamboat, as well as to and from Oregon (from Colorado or New Mexico) a few times. Things had a hard life and it's probably time for a new clutch soon regardless. Looking for something a little more heavy duty than the Aisin stock one.

https://www.advancedclutch.com/prod...off-road-performance-street-sprung-clutch-kit

https://www.extremeterrain.com/cent...TYuDN0Pz8N20a-NXFLgaAiNcEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Maybe edit to:

Want that marriage to last, man!

 

Good lookin out @tonered

 

Cheers!

 

Why do you think the slave cylinder could be the problem? If the clutch is slipping, it’s due to lack of friction and the friction is a combination of the clutch disc and springs pushing it together. The slave cylinder does the opposite: pushes the clutch apart. Yes?

 

This. The clutch master would be responsible for the opposite (pulling the disk from the flywheel). If you were having issues shifting, then the master might be the issue. But this definitely sounds like a slipping clutch. I've had good luck with Exedy Stage 1 in the past for a stock horsepower application.

 

This thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-replacement.793805/
(similar symptoms) is the reason why I was going to try the $55 part before I went out and bought a transmission jack and a $280 stock clutch kit, or a $600-1000 aftermarket clutch kit.

 

It’s not a terrible bet I guess, but I would think that a stuck slave cylinder output would cause a very odd clutch pedal feel. In any case, shouldn’t it be easy to rule out via inspection before buying anything?

Caveat: I’ve never dealt with a hydraulic clutch issue.

 

Based on your situation with towing in the mountains, I'd replace the flywheel, release bearing, too.

 

To clarify on the symptoms I'm experiencing, the truck shifts into all gears with no slippage. It gets into gear just fine, and is rock solid as long as you don't smash the pedal to the metal. When you do hit the gas, it's almost like I am spinning on ice when I go over 2800-3000 RPMs. High rpms, no power translation to rear wheels when in 2WD.
I peeked in the little window you can open near the slave cylinder and I see remnants of what looks like black soot everywhere, so I'm guessing the clutch is toast. Also smell a faint burnt smell down there. I have never replaced a clutch before, but I've watched several videos on it and this process doesn't scare me so I'll DIY. Whether or not it is the clutch or the slave cylinder doesn't really concern me at this point, I'll gladly replace both for the peace of mind since I noticed some corrosion on the slave cylinder as well when I inspected it. It's one of them and I'll replace them both, I just want the best clutch $ can buy and I'm looking for recommendations on that rather than debating whether or not it's a $55 part.

 

You're lucky you got that many miles out of it. Mine went out before 40K and I happened to be wheeling with a buddy. He ended up pulling me 40 miles to get home. That was a fun white knuckle ride, ha.

I went with a Centerforce kit for replacement.

 

I live up in cold ass Canada with a stick and I will give you the confidence that when it's -30C or -22 F my clutch feels like it's slow engagement cause the clutch cylinder is too fn cold and that feels like it takes forever too engage. I think it's definitely a clutch issue cause I've burnt my clutch a few times cause of the cold or stuck in 3ft of snow and it that smell when it slips like stinky break pads. I myself am looking at a performance clutch in my future.

 

That’s normal. There are many threads about it. It’s the worst clutch in cold weather I’ve ever experienced. Luckily I park in an underground garage, thus I don’t have to deal with it much. Could it be the fault of the accumulator? People have said it’s not, but it’s not clear if they have ever experienced < 0F where it takes 1/2 second for the pedal to return to neutral. Every clutch I've owned gets a little stiff in the cold, but this one... sheesh.

 

Neither of you seem lucky to me. I've never had to replace a clutch in my life with the caveat of the Subaru recall many years back.

 

I went with a Centerforce kit for replacement.[/QUOTE]

If I'm going to go organic that's probably the one I'll buy. I was looking at this one too, how many miles have you put on it and what's your experience been? I feel like I would prefer Kevlar or Ceramic since they'll probably handle abuse better.

https://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-4...ZaEjVZ9upAEpmT-GGJw5q4upQzM8EPqDcE8G77ssLtx1f

I did speak with both the guy who makes the clutch kits over at phoenix and a rep over at centerforce and it sounds like this phoenix kit would mate to the centerforce flywheel so I may give that a shot. Not sure what I'll do for a throwout bearing yet but tempted to go this route since it's about the same price as the full organic centerforce kit.

The ceramic side of the phoenix kit will be up against the flywheel, and since the centerforce flywheel is heavier and thicker than OEM, it should be able to handle the additional abuse from a ceramic clutch pad. The kevlar side of the phoenix clutch will be against the pressure plate.

 

Get DOT 3 or DOT 4 LV, or DOT 5.1 and replace the fluid. DOT 4 (normal DOT 4) has twice the viscosity of DOT 3 and DOT 5.1 has half the viscosity of DOT 3.

DOT 5.1 would be preferred, is the most expensive, although the ABS systems work better with 5.1, and clutch will feel much better in the cold, so kinda worth it if brake fluid is getting close to five years old.

 

I misspoke, I got 43k out of the OEM clutch. Sitting around 66k now. So a little over 20K with the Centerforce. I also did the accumulator delete when the clutch was replaced, so my feel is a lot different than stock, ha. So far so good. My thought was if I can get aftermarket for less than an OEM replacement, then go for it. Why replace the old OEM with a new OEM one? With that thought, I would only plan on another 43K or less before having to replace it again.

Been driving standard transmissions for over 20 years and never once had a clutch go out. My Tacoma was the first, ha.

 

Mines starting to slip a bit. Just rolled over 31k...

I have a civic with 260k on the clock, original clutch, no signs of slipping. I reused what I believe is the original clutch and fkywheel when I swapped a manual into my olf 3rd gen 4runner. It had 178k on it, and I put another 60k on it and have since given it to my uncle. Tons of offroading in the latter half of that 60k when I lived out in idaho. Never showed signs of slipping.

Do any of the aftermarket clutches have significsntly stiffer spring rates tk hold them against the flywheel? I don't mind the extra pedal force if they do, if it means I'll get a longer life out of it.

I put 35k on a 200k+ miles new-to-me vibe years ago. Before that the only vehicle I've put a clutch in was my parents old 315k isuzu rodeo, and that was only because I had the transmission out to replace the synchros on the 3-4 gear.

 

I watched the youtube vid on the centerforce clutch and apparently their pressure plate has some technology that increases the amount of pressure being applied to the clutch pad against the flywheel but they didn't go super in-depth about it.

The guy at phoenix told me they use an OE pressure plate and they just manufacture the clutch pads as part of their kits. Didn't ask about the TOB they include, which I regret.

 

Centerforce uses similar to stock springs and these weights on the release fingers to increase clamping pressure as rpm increases. This combination allows for a stock feel at low rpms and improved clamping forces at higher RPM.

I used one in my Mustang that I drag raced, years ago. It was a used one I scavenged from a wreck at an autowrecker. It worked fantastic. Made my cheater slicks bark when I power shifted at high RPM. Even into 4th gear.