Let's see your FJ case swap

There's still wiring for the dash lights

And I need to do the anytime locker too. I can do it, just need to hype myself

 

Anti rust mod, I like it. Just check the level once in a while. FJ case and crawler boxes are like harleys they all leak oil a bit, and the ones that don't leak are the ones you have to worry about they're probably low on oil LOL. You can remove just the back half, where is yours leaking, at that seal between the front and back clamshell?

Not constant vacuum, they are a breather hose like diff and transmission, they need to be open to air. If the case cools down quickly from say you drive through a puddle, if the line is not open to atmosphere you can cause a condition where the case draws a vacuum from the air inside the case cooling down too fast because the fluid rapidly cools, and this can cause leaks. Similar to the rear diff breather mod when you go through a puddle, water can be sucked in through the axle seals.

 

Lol. Yeah. I'm pretty sure it's my gasket job. I'm a fairly strong guy, but I don't want to tighten the bolts anymore than I have. A good, thicker coat will help for sure..

 

Drumroll please!!! This is my finished product. I'm very happy with the end result, as it came out better than I expected.
I wanna thanks TW, amd all those who chimed in on my every question, and annoyance to stuff that I probably missed along this 150-plus page thread. I'm really, really stoked on the outcome, and have no more thoughts o trade-ins. Lol!!! Thanks TW, big times for this one. We are one helluva Taco fam indeed!!! Brothers of the Taco 4-L!!!
If you're holding out for some reason or other, just do it already. It won't be easy, but it won't be too hard either. It's easier hands on than just reading and looking at pics and watching vids. Just do it!!!

 

The purpose of the neutral switch is to tie into the park/neutral circuit, to allow starting when transfer case is in neutral. It’s just an extension of the function on your neutral safety switch on the transmission and gives you more starting options.

 

@fatfurious2, hey man, take pics of the end result. I'm pretty stoked with mine. I even scored me a 2022 shift knob to more closely match the twin-stick knobs. Yet to come will be a boot for the shifter, but my steering cooler and Mitchmade Carrier are both on the way... Just keep moving forward, bro.

 

Huge kudos to you! Looks great, the way it should have been done at the factory

I went back to see when you started (page 20 1/19)! Thats tenacity my friend. A rarely seen quality. I did a nut for nut restoration on my 67 Mustang starting in 89'... raiseed 2 sons... got the final piece done in 03'. Ahh not again.

Again Nice job!

 

I have this shift knob and a stock FJ knob. We will see if the king one will fit with the other one

 

Thanks. I actually think that's when I started researching, and looking into what this was all about. Read, watched, and did it over and over til I finally found a case.
Anyway, thanks for your kind words. Now I'm just trying to urge others to pull the trigger. It's only as hard as you make it. I'll send a pic of why it took me so long. What was once under the console I'd all gone now.. (pic below)

 

Fatfurious; I love the uniqueness you are going with. I'd like to see the King with shaved edges (where it rounds out underneath the eyelet). Hope it it's for ya bro. You got this. Yet be sure you want on stick over two. I figured this as soon as I knew I was getting a case... Good luck bro.

 

@ 1 Limited Toyota, any wrenching worth doing, is time well spent, regardless of the time it takes to finish. It's not a race to get a job done because there are too many variables. Rather it's the pride amd joy of doing something right, where the end result will leave you with a sigh of gratitude, and that (Job well done) feeling!!! I know that Stang was well worth the time it took. Kudos, bro!!!

 

Thanks, Nut for nut 14 years in the back shop on a rotisserie for alot of it.

 

We both know it was well worth it. Damn that's beautiful!!!! Yupp!!! Kudos to you, just the same!!!!

 

How do I stop the blinking lights on the dash?

 

I think that's the one where you gotta wire up the wires above the glove box area?? (if you haven't already)??

 

No haven't done that.
I just unplugged it and they stopped for now.
Still gotta wire up 4h and low the sensors .
I tried plugging them in but they didn't want to plug straight to the Tacoma plugs like someone already mentioned that they already fit but they don't seem to fit.

 

Come to find out this twin stick set up is my worse mod, yet..
I thought I crossed my T's and dotted my I's, but man oh man. I think I should've just stayed FJ stick over twin.
Leaking where the twin stick housing is mated to the case. Am I supposed to add the gasket maker here??
Also, do I again, gasket maker the top where the rubber boot sits on the twin housing? I never leaked with my 3rd member gear swap, and this mod right here has me looking back to stock set up. For real, tho!!! It's a bit frustrating at this point.
I just moved along with my power steering cooler, and since I had to remove my lower skid plate, I took a look at what looked like a catastrophe! (the case)
Any feedback?? If not, it's alright.. I've another bottle of fluid, lol!!
Thanks in advance!!!

 

@Toyotamudbogs , go to page 30 of this thread... Then go to YouTube and watch 2010 FJ case swap. He shows how to and what to wire at case, and in glove box.

 

for the bolded part, honestly, put rtv between every mating surface. it aint going to hurt and only will help.