What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Little to no privacy but at the same time the water was maybe 50 yards away so that was cool. Water felt great!

 

I rechecked my valves after 7k and a few were out of spec. I'd start with them on the greater side of the clearance margin.

 

For sure. Having the water right there makes it worth it I think.

 

Why not...

Day 2 of our re-acquired 3/95 build taco work on T-belt water pump & replacement. I got most of it disassembled yesterday. To find the water pump was definitely the reason it was mostly out of coolant when we got her back. I ordered an Aisin full kit with tensioner. New belts all the way around. crank and both cam seals

Today, I removed the cam gears and upper inner dust shield, crank timing gear (came off nice and smoothly with puller by hand!). Got all 3 seals installed, lower idler pulley installed along with water pump and Tstat.

Tomorrow, I will put the tension actuator in, then the belt and upper idler pulley. Get lower cover all on and maybe get it all back together. I'm taking my good ole time, and it feels great. We are in no hurry and I really like this kind of working on this truck.


Mike

 

So I snapped my sway bar completely in half.... Has anyone else encountered this before??? not necessarily mad just curious cuz its solid metal and i feel like it must've been under alot of pressure to snap. 2nd and 3rd gen tacoma lift kits come with a sway bar drop spacer to help put the sway bar in a more neurtral and unloaded position. Why is that not made for 1st gen tacoma 3" lift kits?
Vehicle: 1995 Tacoma Ext. Cab SR5 4x4 v6
Suspension Setup Front: Sway A Way 2.5 Coilovers
JBA Upper controll arms
Suspension Setup Rear: Old Man Emu CS019R Leaf pack with all leaves still installed
OME Greasable Shackles
Bilstein 10" travel 5125's with 3/4" ID bushings

Sway Bar LEFT THE CHAT:



Any comments would be greatly appreciated!

 

Not needed in my eyes and experience. Take it off, and leave it off. Ride quality will be increased. You'll be surprised.

 

it depends on what part of ride quality you are referring to.

A sway bar is meant to keep left and right sides of a vehicle at the same level. If you are off roading, a sway bar will hurt your traction in uneven terrain. Most remove them for more heavy used off-road vehicles. People drag racing remove them also as they restrict the down drop of the front wheels on a launch and create less rear weight distribution.

A sway bar will keep a vehicle level left to right in turns as it keeps vertical height between sides closer to one another. I agree to keep it off if you are off-roading much with your vehicle.


Mike

 

It can be hard to get the front end of thee trucks to flex as is, but I do find myself wanting a swaybar these days more and more. But in the rear this time with longer lever arms.

 

Finished the Fabrication side of my Dual Swing out bumper. Need to sand blast and paint it soon.


Got my Tundra wheels all painted and threw on my 34x10.50 Toyos that were on my Ranger. These will be my new Wheels and tires for Burt.

 

I grabbed a 7 series BMW rear hydraulic unit, and with a valve it definitely will work as a ~$150 electronic QD bar, I havent installed it yet, just have it sitting around

 

That's an interesting idea, I haven't looked at that unit before. It's for a heavy car does it actually disconnect or does it go lower resistance?

 

in the oem application its a metered hydraulic actuator that can be preloaded against roll via a pump, I have a on/off ball valve and have just bled it like brakes... with the valve open the bar is truly disconnected, with it closed its not quite rock solid as I expected (maybe need to bleed more, its challenging to do tbh) but after a deadzone it is locked.

 

Oh... this is tempting then. Integrate it with the Haltech and the G-sensor and could damn near make it automatic with an over ride. Could it just be worked in the power steering loop?

 

the pre-loading probably could be, thats more or less how it works for BMW in the OEM application, but they have a much higher volume pump and metering valve to do the preloading.

my test setup is just an electric on/off valve on a switch that will either lock the hydraulic fluid in place (swaybar does things) or let it flow (no swaybar functions)

 

Could be fun, I don't plan to put a bar in front again, space is at a premium and I need that space for a slide rack. But be nice to run a stiffer bar in the rear with a disco system

 

I am thinking to package it in front of the front axle like the 5-lugs

 

I've got no room up there that wouldn't get into my tires from being too high

 

I'm expecting there will be clearance with +3.5"?

 

That's a possibility, with the BMW unit what is mounting a bar to it like?

 

you can either just keep the actuator bit and weld,


or what I'm thinking to do since the bar is the right length for the frame rail already, just make arms


forgive my concept art