Yet another clunk thread...

Ok TW let’s hear suggestions

2017 OR recently started clunking when going slow on uneven surfaces. Turning seems to make it worse. 75k on it, 5100s on all 4 corners ~1.5" lift with an AAL in the rear. All suspension changed was done a while ago.
The clunk is more noticeable within the cab than outside so I'm not positive where its coming from.
Things I've checked...
LCA bolts all snug. I have new LCAs as of 6 months ago. (Old bushings died) and re torqued them.
No play in my sway bar or end links. (Sway bar bushing are cheap so I figure I'll replace them this weekend to for sure rule it out.)
Top strut nut is to spec.
No play on CVs.
Lug nuts all there/tight
Break caliper tight.
New break pads were installed 3 months ago but I supposed it could be the pads sliding.
Removed the skid plate and reinstalled.
* checked zerks on driveshaft/propeller shaft (thanks for the suggestion)
* Skid plate removed

I filmed a video from each wheel well and the clunk is not audible. I then just drove over the top of my phone ( see video) and it sounds like its coming from the mid/rear of the truck. The clunk is faint but there are two of them, one after the other starting at 0:04.
Thanks yall

 

do 3rd gens have geese fittings in the u-joints? mine got a bit clunky when they get haven't been lubed.

 

They do…at least mine does, I’m pretty good about hitting them every oil change but that’s a solid idea to give it a shot.
Thanks!

 

What skid plates do you have?? What upper control arms?

 

My 2016 has 5 greasable Zerks. Shortly afterwards, Toyota moved toward non-greasable joints. Check this link to make sure you are greasing all joints on your 2017.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-your-u-joints.409042/

 

pro skid and OEM UCAs. I suppose the ball ucas could be shot but I figured I’d hear it a little more

 

Thanks for the link, I’ll have to double check I thought I only had the front two but I’ll get under it tonight

 

I believe your 2017 4x4 only has 2 greaseable Zerks on the front shaft. Never hurts to check all possible locations to be sure.

 

What are you torquing the Camber/ Caster bolts to? The 3rd gen is significantly more than the 2nd gen. Its 135lb and 139LB for the two bolts on each side.

 

Gave it a look and only had the two. Each only took 1/2 a pump to fill up

I did the 135/139 lb which was a PITA to get ha I did film a video from the inside of the wheel well and the sound wasn't noticeable but I'll have my wife drive the truck so I can walk along to listen.

 

ah knew at some point they switched over had a friend bring hers over for me to look at and we did some work on it and i was all ready to grease things and there were no fittings. so said when they go bad its time to install some with fittings

 

A non-greaseable joint is considered to be slight stronger than a greaseable joint.

https://4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/greas...strength: The,outlive a non-greaseable joint.

 

Greasable joints are a downgrade.

 

Your clunk is probably the spring seat against the shock like so many others. I have had a clunk on bumps for over 30K miles. Stock bilsteins on mine, but they can all make the noise due to the design.

 

from that article.

"Bottom line on strength: The non-greaseable joint is slightly stronger than a greaseable joint. The exact number, how much stronger, is unknown and we do not believe it to be very significant.

Bottom line on wear life: A regularly greased greaseable joint will outlive a non-greaseable joint. But a non-greaseable joint will outlive a greaseable joint that does not get greased properly."

from some place like tom woods, in my mind it seems like the advantages are minimal at best for either.

 

There's a technical notice out for the Pro Skids. Or there was a few years ago. Basically any beefy aluminum skid on these trucks makes a clunk unless you torque them down like the hulk. I have RCI skids on my truck, and I'll torque them down heavy when I remove/reinstall, and then I go back a week or two down the road and I can get another quarter turn out of them. You don't hear the clunk outside of the truck but inside it sounds bad. Mine is worse when turning right actually.

Go tighten the shit out of it and report back. Stock OEM UCA's won't make the noise.

I guess you could pull the skid and drive around and see what happens too.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that, I took it off and drove around, it still was present. This thing is a mystery, I've re torqued my entire suspension with no luck. Strange part is I can't replicate the noise by rocking the truck on my own. Its got to be in motion so next in line is to take the front breaks apart and retorque them. Then move on to the cab mount bushings.

Good to know about the RCI skids though, I'm thinking about jumping over to them soon.

 

11JUL25 UPDATE
Replaced front/rear with MT64 and Icon RXT in January for context.

Reviving this...clunk has been pretty quiet for a while. I've torqued and retorqued and lubed enough parts that I've honestly spaced what all I've done. However, during a recent trip I had the clunk come back on just about every deep washout or anything that required lots of front end flex. I posted a video checking the tie rods (here). The clunk at the end of the video is coming from my steering wheel moving back and fourth with a stronger wiggle. Is that enough play to warrant tie rod replacement?

I haven't been able to get a video of the clunk that is obvious on video while driving but I'll see what I can do.