How to: Deleting ADD system

Is this the version of the mod where you swap the tube and shaft, but you leave the ADD in a plastic bag and zip tie it somewhere "safe" so that it can still send the signal to the 4wd ECU?

 

Correct

 

I am looking to do this FJ tube swap- do you have a link on the limit switch mod?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-add-delete-wiring-figured-out.464595/

 

whats the purpose of having communication to the 4wd ecu? My 4wd ecu and electronics are all gone but I have an sr5. I’m assuming this may be to keep the atrac and other driving features that I’m guessing reside in the 4wd ecu on the higher models (trd and such).

 

Exactly. There is no reason to keep the 4wd ecu if going to an fj case. Which is why I did what I did. I am good at wiring shit and i say fuck all that the point is eliminating electronics. Easier to delete electronics than trick them. If you're keeping the taco case though you have to trick the electronics, or at least wire up some creative shit to make it work.

I pull sticks and my truck goes into the gear I asked it to. No warning lights, no beeps. Just smooth, flawless operation.

 

No, ATRAC and other traction control features are handled by the brake system so even higher trims don’t need the 4WD ECU anymore after getting and FJ case and deleting ADD (and there really is no good reason to do only one but not the other.

 

Ah gotcha. Didn’t even dawn on me that someone would do the add delete without the fj case. Figured the two went hand and hand. Now I understand the wiring proponent.

My delete is the exact as yours. When I did the fj case I did the same. Got rid of all the electronics and like yourself have shit that just works.

Based on the above I’m assuming it’s for someone doing the add delete without the fj case. As we know some do the fj case without the add delete.

thanks for the info guys.

 

@6 gearT444E
Thanks for posting the part numbers in your original post.

Post-covid prices are now $445

 

yes that is sad, I wonder how much a new ADD actuator costs though so maybe it’s linear and still fiscally even to replace a broken actuator with the manual tube

 

You can get a used OEM actuator from junk yards in California on car-part.com for about $175 shipped with a 1 year warranty. Ordered one a few months ago for someone and it looked like it had been dry for its entire life and was in better shape than the one being replaced. Though this is totally appropriate when swapping to an FJ transfer case and removing the 4WD computer. I may do that myself someday but until then, a used actuator is a cheaper and more practical repair, I’ll n my opinion.

 

I’ve got a used one for sale that I never posted up from the last time I swapped my FJ tube years ago. I figure to let it go for $100 or less just to help someone out. It’s working just fine.

 

based on the new prices, could someone buy a FJC front diff on ebay and just swipe the tube? Used prices are looking around $350 shipped. Then maybe sell the front diff separately?

 

The 4th gen V8 4runner or GX470 use the same diff tube without ADD as well

 

Whoa! thank you for that!

I just found one for $150 and its local to me. Going to see if I can pick up locally.

 

No go, but $250 shipped doesn't sound horrible

 

I’ve got all the parts for this and am installing the tube to my truck as soon as I can get a seal installed to my satisfaction.

Already built an ADD spoof harness that totally gets rid of all computer issues with the ADD being removed. 3rd gens are picky in that way. Pretty pumped for the swap! I have no real complaints with the electronic transfer case, but I really hate the idea of the ADD.

Hoping the upside down wheel helps me install a seal straight finally. The first two seals have not gone well. Now I’m waiting on more seals and will try again, with a better method now.

 

glad to see my trick might help someone else . They key to installing is go slow and steady. Make sure to start the seal even and if it doesn’t then back out before it gets too crooked in the housing.

 

Man, that seal is just a total pain. I had it going straight and then as I went further, it went crooked….i have installed 3 of these things now (2 OEM 1 from AutoZone) and not one of them has gone right. I’m using an ABS coupling but still, it is not going well. Very annoying.

 

what I use as well that can help is get a threaded clean out and that will allow even pressure on all sides. Or use a small 2x4 over the coupler. They are definitely not the easiest to get started. Maybe try putting some grease on the inside lip of the ADD tube.