Oem cv axles for sale

Seems like it's common to stretch those boots down the shaft a bit

 

Hello all, are these the same driver's and passenger side?

 

Is this at normal ride height or with the suspension in full droop? Looks like full droop?

 

Yes

 

I think that one might be at full drop, but it rubs when level as well. Two of the ribs of the boot are touching.

 

This is how the boot should look, in my Tacoma:

 

In that case just do the CV boot slide mod as described here. Popular mod for lifted applications and costs only two #16 hose clamps (nominally 1.5" dia.): https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-cv-boot-mod.190669/

Mine:

 

I wonder if the middle shaft is longer for the Tacoma than the 4Runner? If so could the tripod to crash into the housing? I guess I have a junk Tacoma CV, so maybe I could take it apart and measure it.

Edit: I tried to measure the assembled axles at maximum compression. It's hard to get an accurate measurement because they are floppy and stretchy. It's inconclusive, but I didn't find an obvious difference.

 

I replaced the boot on the 4Runner CV today. I suspect the main difference between Tacoma and 4Runner axles is the location of the groove where the inner boot sits on the shaft. The boot on the 4Runner axle sits farther out from the diff, so the boot is less scrunched. So sliding the boot would be an acceptable fix.

New boot on original 4Runner axle, at ride height:

 

Are the boots the same size, length, 4runner vs tacoma?

 

No. There's a different number of ribs. 4 ribs on the 4Runner and 3 ribs on the Tacoma. There are a few revisions of the axles and boot kits over the years, so they might have even changed them within a model. I don't have all of them (but I'm close).

It's odd that the 4Runner seems to be narrower (from diff to knuckle) but has more ribs on the boot. Maybe because the spider sits deeper in the tulip, so there's more relative motion between the edge of the tulip and the center shaft, necessitating more ribs to take up the flex. It's also just an older design, known for having inner boot issues, so maybe they improved it over the years. I do think a boot stretch mod would work to put a Tacoma axle on a 4Runner, and a 4Runner axle would probably work well in a lifted Tacoma since the boot is essentially pre-stretched relative to a factory Tacoma axle.

I also learned that the spiders aren't compatible between the Tacoma and 4Runner axles. I took apart the second 4Runner axle to reboot, and found it was rusty and gritty inside due to water getting in the damaged boot (which has been bad for years). I tried to swap over the spider from a Tacoma axle that's rusty on the outside but good on the inside, but it didn't fit. The splines were a slightly different size/number. It boggles my mind that they wouldn't just make these trucks on the same platform and use the same parts. I guess they are doing that now with the 4th gen Tacoma and all the other vehicles coming out at the same time.

Another revision is apparently the newest axles no longer have the cotter pin and locking castle thing on the axle nut, and they use a one time use axle nut instead (I haven't seen one, but maybe it's a nylon locking nut). That probably saves some robot 10 seconds in the factory.

 

WARNING!!! I ordered a couple cv axles from Trail.taco to throw one on my truck and another just to have as a spare. I figured at $160 a piece would save me a couple bucks and since they were Toyota axles it would be better than buying aftermarket. I had seen a few people had ordered from him and had a limited warranty if something was wrong with them. I was told that they were sealed. I paid him and the next day had a tracking number. When I received them, I didn’t have time to take a thorough look at them until a couple days later. Both CVs had really small cuts on the outer boot near the strap. I notified Trail.taco about the problem and told him I was going to repair one to complete my project. He apologized and said he could possibly get another one out to me. This was the last communication I received from him. A couple days later I went to install the one that I had repaired except the threads were jacked up and I couldn’t get the nut on it. Then I tried the second one and same thing, the threads were were jacked up. Tried to correct the threads and even had another guy help me get it to work. Ended having to buy a new axle to get my truck back together. Contacted Trail.taco, but haven’t heard anything in 2 weeks from his last communication.

Look, I realize that these kind of things are “buy at your own risk,” but when I was told there was a limited warranty, that they were sealed and that he could get another one to me, I expected something to come out of this.

If you’re thinking about buying CVs to save a few bucks or thinking you want an extra axle for the trail, DON’T GO THIS ROUTE!!! At this point I could have bought an axle from CVJ and had money to spare. I tried to give this guy a chance to at least respond to me before I posted this.

 

I had a similar problem. The first axle I got looked like a boat anchor. It had deep rust, the threads were stripped, and it came from a 2015 with 150k miles, not a low miles low rust 3rd gen as advertised. It was basically unusable. (I took it apart in an attempt to scavenge internal parts, and remarkably it looked brand new inside. Toyota quality is amazing) Sounds like the scrap yard screwed us, but trail.taco had them promptly send a replacement. That's fine, stuff happens.

Unfortunately the replacement was just packed in bubble wrap, so it was damaged in shipping. The outer boot was damaged where the clamp was smashed, and it's leaking grease. The outer seal (rubber and metal seal that interfaces with a seal in the spindle/knuckle or whatever it's called) was completely smashed, not able to be straighted, and I believe that's a $30-ish part from Toyota. To reboot the axle and replace the seal is a bunch of work (can't reboot the outer joint without doing the inner joint as well), and the parts would cost almost as much as I paid for the axle. I asked about a replacement, but I have not heard back in a couple weeks.

I want to give trail.taco the benefit of the doubt since I assume he's just doing this as a side business. Maybe he has personal stuff going on or maybe the scrap yard he works with is out of stock or fed up with him. To be fair he also hasn't posted any more axles for sale since I last heard from him (end of August).

I had the whole saga with trying to fit the axles on a 4Runner, and that's on me, of course. I'm willing to move the details to another thread or maybe the 4Runner forum if this is not an appropriate place for it, but otherwise I'll leave it here because I think it's interesting info that's not obvious without trying it. I don't need axles for the 4Runner anymore, but at this point I would just like a good Tacoma axle that I can keep as a trail spare or resell, or I'd be happy with a refund too.

I asked CVJ about Tacoma vs 4Runner axles, and their answer didn't inspire confidence. They basically said they are the same, which is not my experience. Maybe the person I talked to didn't know the details, or maybe they didn't want to tell me everything they know. But the response made me hesitant to buy from them. It sounded like they might give you Tacoma or 4Runner specific parts if you ask. The good news for Tacoma owners is that if you get a 4runner axle, I believe the boot would just end up slightly more stretched on a Tacoma, which won't cause any issues. The reverse, Tacoma axle in a 4th gen 4Runner, is where there may be problems.

New Toyota axles don't cost that much more than CVJ. Shipping seems like a big risk, and Toyota does not pack them well either, but I found a local dealer that I can pick up from. Unfortunately (at least for the 4Runner) the new stock switched from a cotter pin retainer to a stake nut (where you have to deform the edge of the nut with a punch), which is a big downgrade in my opinion. I assume it saves a few seconds for some robot in the factory that's installing the axle nuts on new vehicles. But it will be a pain to remove, difficult to do on the trail, and there's more risk of damaging the threads on the axle. The stake nut is one time use, and cutting off the staked section seems like the most reliable way to remove it from what I've seen.

 

your dealership should have reman axles around the tune of $180, or at least mine did. You just need to provide them with a core. Another option than buying from CVJ - not that CVJ is a bad option.

 

how is rebooting an axle and the dust seal the same cost as what you paid? A reboot kit is about $60, and the dust seal like you said is $30.

part number: 04428-04010

$56 Toyota Genuine Parts - Boot Kit, Inboard/Ou (04428-04010)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTHPVY4

 

I think Toyota might have stopped doing reman axles. They should be the same as the regular part number with -84 added on the end. In all my searching I don't think I ever found one available, but it might depend on the vehicle.

 

The last time I did one at the dealership, I just walked up to the parts counter, and the guy helped me. I am not sure if they are available as an online purchase.

 

It's not the same, but close. $90 and probably an hour of work and a big mess. I'd also need a tool for the ear clamps, which I don't own yet. Edit: looks like $10 for a cheap one or $20 for a nice one.

 

if you do go that route, I highly suggest a tool like this, over the Lisle pliers that require 2 breaker bars. I bought one when I did my last reboot, and it saved my shoulders!

$28 ReluxGo CV Boot Clamp Pliers, Single Ear Hose Drive Shaft CV Axle Boot Clamp Removal and Installation Tool Compatible with Toyota Lexus etc OEM 09521-24010

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTYHQQZ3




Yes its messy, but youre saving $. Thats motivation enough for me!

 

My dealer had reman for $282 and new for $175 ????? Not sure why new is cheaper.

Edit: New CV Axel $222.87 each from dealership.