What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Oh I'll wear you down. I'll find a way...

 

Ah I had no idea he attempted it. I'm at 3500 RPM at 75 and almost 4k at 85. I'd love the reduction in 5th for those long 15 hour highway days.

 

When you think you have problems, look at the bright side—to resolve them, you need a new PCM and a complete wiring harness.

 

Took my truck apart to find a water leak. Shot my self in the foot it was where I ran wires the through the passenger side grommet and when water would run off the wiper cowl it would run right on my wires and go in the cab.

 

Tore my truck apart to search for a water leak. Found it to be wires I ran through the passenger side grommet, the water would run off the wiper cowl and directly on the wires I ran and the water would drip behind the passenger kick panel. Last November I tore the truck apart to fix a water leak which ended up being cracked old body seam sealer. During that time I removed the carpet and washed it, so I wasn't super happy to hop in the truck to find it smelling like old work boots. I hardly drive this thing anymore its basically now my adventure wheeling truck only.

 

Interesting, I am on 4.88s as well but in a 2.7 with the w59 and on a 33x10.5. at 70 I was right at 2900 rpm 3100 at 75. At 62 I'm must closer to sub 2500rpm.

 

It's actually closer to 3/4 or 1" away at ride height. Likely to change when I put an aftermarket uca on. At full droop it's 3/8"

 

Oof, I hope you replaced the heater core while you were at it

 

This is about the same as me (with SPCs). The problem I'm having is that when turning passenger, near full lock, the driver side rubs on the bottom of the resi that's in the wheel well. I forget if you've got resis up there Bob? (I can see you don't, Wyatt.)

I've got some 0.5" spacers and longer studs on the way, which should solve the problem (I hope) given that this new wheel/tire combo puts the tire 0.35" closer to the frame than the old set. At least, that's mathematically the positioning, since we all know that tire diameter and width vary from manufacturers specs/dimensions quite a bit.

 

I did find on my Kenda's, I had the 33x10.50r17 on my Ranger before these Toyos were on there, they sized similar to BFG tires. A little shorter and a little wider that advertised. Toyos being the opposite, much closer to advertised height but narrower than expected. My Mickeys MTZ were the same as well. Measuring a hair under 10" wide.
Same Width tires both 10.5 on a 7.5" wheel. Both at about 16psi
Kenda

Toyo

 

Oh no. Fixes have been posted for the cowl water leak problem. I had that problem when I got my 1st gen back in 2019.

 

I used windshield sealer on both sides just for good measure.

 

Raptor-style grille and black corner lights to replace my ‘04s faded OEM grey grille

 

That looks awesome

 

Went under the truck to get a better idea of the steering rack bushings I'm about to change out and noticed the rear main is leaking again... a month after dumping $800 to a shop to replace it. Back we go! I believe my torque converter is giving me the horrible driveline vibrations so might be a good thing to get in there again.

 

$800 is a great price to do a rear main. I guess you get what you pay for...

 

Well...Well...Well...

It's alive again. Finished my timing belt/water pump job today. I said I was taking my time. The rain hasn't helped any down here in SE GA either. I also installed the original brake pedal after deep cleaning, priming and painting with lubrication also. And installed a replacement clutch pedal, which is a 4 cylinder pedal, I found out. The original pedal had some double wishbone caddy wompus spring in the top which would hold the pedal down and up. It had pressure in the middle, and I have no idea what that gobbly gook engineering was for.

For those not catching earlier posts, before starting, we had an issue of the motor (V6) wouldn't go above 22-2400 rpm. No CEL or anything showing a fault. My son and I did a lot of reading on similar problems, we thought crank or cam position sensor, with crank being higher chance. While doing the timing belt/water pump replacement (along with crank and cam seals), I installed a new Denso crank position sensor. Today at light off and letting the motor warming up a few minutes... the problem was gone. I had ordered a cam position sensor along with a buddy sending me one while telling me he has seen maybe 2 going bad over 25 years of working on these trucks, but felt it could easily be put on if the problem was still there. What a day it was, drove the truck around on our little island. Just to definitely realize these like new looking 8 of 2016 made tires that has sit for over 2 years NEEDS replaced. We have some mint original rims in route, that will just get new rubber on them. Then insure it and register for tags to get on the road !!!

My son and I are excited, thanks for listening!


Mike

 

Pic didnt load for me, but you might need to get synchros too, it surprised me when I did mine.

 

OEM parts too

Oh well, I never use shops and this one came pretty highly regarded in the area. I'm sure they'll make it right.

 

Sounds like a lot of hard work is paying off!