1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

You just need to ask yourself, is compression really that important to you?

 

Hows he going to do a leak down if the cams aren't in sync with the crank? You cant tell if any valves are open when the piston is at TDC and the results are worthless. Unless, what, hes going to pull valve covers and/or the timing cover and manually position the cam to closed valve position for each cylinder?

 

Yea I guess it wouldn’t be conclusive? Maybe looking down there with a bore scope would be more helpful..

 

Timing the engine properly would be better

 

100 percent, if the engine is out of time then any compression numbers taken won't be valid

 

Fred flintstone never worried about things like compression why should we

 

Here is my take, one Nick certainly doesn't want to hear ....

You're in the right track with this mechanic, he seems to be doing you solid. The previous one was a hack, we know this so anything he said can be ignored. That means the compression test, the Timing belt job, whatever, cut it off there. Your truck won't start, that's the problem now and the only one to worry about. Don't bombarded your new one with too many questions or theories or what ifs. Let him do what he needs to do at this point to fix it, he clearly has a smoking gun on ONE problem. Let him dig in and solve it. Once it's running, go from there but it's one thing at a time. It may fix everything, it may not, so be prepared for both those outcomes.

Now, if it's a money issue that would prevent you fixing it and forcing you to sell it, I understand that. It's not much but I'll throw $150 your way to fixing it, just don't go selling it right after you fix it.

 

Thanks, I authorized him to tear into it and order a new crank gear and sensor. I need to get to the bottom of this. If I sold it as is, I think I'd go the rest of my life wondering what was wrong with it. Maybe I can try to get some money back from the old guy, at least for the sensor he threw out.

 

It may be best to just forget the first mechanic, and cut off all contact with him.

Let the now-mechanic get it up and running, and enjoy the whip once it's fixed.

 

All I can do is leave a bad review I guess. At least he was fairly cheap, but it's still 550 bucks down the drain.

I would be curious to see what he says though. He may just ignore me and that'll be that.

 

As much as we know you're own calamities are your own doing, the first mechanic is a bummer deal and i have sympathy for you one that. We here are biased, we love our trucks and we hope you can find that same with your truck once its up and running properly.

Nelson's probably right, the first mechanic is probably more hassle than its worth, but i would still ask for some money back once you get the full scope of what happened. He caused damage to your truck that didnt exist when you brought it to him, and then seemed apathetic about fixing his mistakes.

 

At the very least I'm gonna leave a bad review, maybe even post on the Bentonville subreddit about my experience.

 

On another note, it's been 92 degrees meaning IT'S STILL HOT

As much as I wanted to get stuff done in the garage, I don't want to be hot so....will wait until this weekend

 

This is really the first time I've had a truly bad experience with a mechanic. You win some you lose some I guess.

 

It's hot here, still working

 

I'm not so tolerant of the heat.

I need to spend time cutting to dial in the new setup which means an open garage door and warm air

 

@Speedytech7 newbie question from a newbie at drivetrain work: What sealant/gasket maker did you use when attaching the output shaft to your front diff?

 

Toyota 1281, Toyota 103 would likely do fine too. But they recommend 1281 for transmissions and transaxles

 

Worth it to spring for Toyota stuff over Permatex?