How much should I pay for a new 2011 Tacoma TRD Sport w/JBL

Hey Taco Lovers,

I'm about to go to the dealership to purchase my first vehicle and of course I want the 2011 Tacoma TRD Sport w/JBL Short Bed. I been search this site and look at pricing online to see what I should try to negotiate. Online Kelly Blue Book states that around 30,500 is a fair price. I seen someone got a 2011 Tacoma TRD Sport w/JBL for just under 30K here on the forum.

What do you guys think is a fair price? You think I should ask for 30K out the door including taxes and fees? I live in the Bay Area and there is plenty of dealerships I can go to. Please let me know what you guys think. I am so ready to get my Tacoma, but just dont want to get rip off.

 

I paid 28,500 for 2011 sport SB 6 speed.

 

Copied an older post of mine... should sticky a post for people on how to buy cars...

This is how you tell - and this is how you buy a car (this is for metropolitan areas, if you're out in the boonies with fewer dealerships to deal with, it will most likely impact this):

1. Go to edmunds.com and get the information regarding how much the dealer is paying (it will be within $100 or so). NEVER buy a car without doing this. Information is your friend.

2. Check on edmunds.com for the current, if any, incentives being offered.

Now, only you can decide what a good deal is - meaning how much the vehicle is being marked up. Much of it is timing, supply/demand and how patient you're willing to be. When I was looking at a tacoma, they were scarce for the one i wanted, so i was only able to get it down to $500 over. any other model and i can get it for $100 over.

Now - this is how you do it (I have a lot of experience in this business) - you find out if the dealer has what you want (internet, swing by the dealership - (which I don't do), etc.). I can often find what I want by checking their inventory online. Call and ask for the fleet manager (don't do this until you know exactly what you want - they don't have time to play the game). Tell him what you want, can he get it and how much over invoice is it? They will tell you it's $X over, take it or leave it. They've all even faxed me their invoice, which I ask for. NEVER talk to a salesperson first, they will want in on the deal and potentially complicate it. At this point, you're making and educated decision.

Now, some may point out that dealerships get holdbacks, etc. You'll generally never get that, don't even bother. IF you follow this method, you'll be getting a great deal and know it, not hope.

There's no need to fly to the next state, etc. The only reason someone did that is because they didn't know how the business works.

Good luck!

 

You should be able to get it out the door for $28,500. That's what i got mine for, with the 6ft bed.

 

I paid $25,000 for my 2010 - Super White Double Cab - TRD sport with the JBL system. In March 2010.

 

$27,676. 2011 TRD Sport DoubleCab Shortbed. 4x4. 6 speed manual.

 

i got it for 28 after taxes.

the best way to do it is their online prices, i did not have to talk to anyone about a price, because i got an internet quote for 27 before taxes.

 

You only paid $1,000 in taxes!!??

In California, we'd be paying $2,700.00 in taxes. 10%

 

If your looking at a brand new one, anything under $30 will be good. Are you going to finance it as well? Then you gotta add the interest and all of that too.

 

Also, my order was placed in September of last year.

 

I just bought one last week. It was the third Toyota I've bought new and I've used the same process to get a good deal each time. Look at the different parts of buying a car as their own negotiating process and get the best deal you can on each of them- New Car Price, Trade-in Price, Financing.

For the new car price, the first thing is to know exactly what you want and any variations from that that you would be willing to accept. Down to what specific options and accessories. As mentioned above, knowledge is power. If you'll tell me exactly what you want (you didn't mention single, access or double cab) and your zip code I can get a good price for you to begin negotiating from. I'm a USAA member and they have a car buying service. You can see what price you would pay if you go thru them and that's what I use to begin with. Their price varies by dealer, but the best price was $575 below invoice. After knowing a good starting price figure out how many dealers in your area you would be willing to drive to for the best price. I'm in the middle of nowhere, so to get different quotes I was talking to dealers in 4 different states as far as 6 hours away. Check the dealer websites to see if they're running any specials. The internet only specials typically don't offer any better deals. Then start calling them and ask what they have in stock that fits what you want. It's best if you have some flexibility in color or accessories so they don't gain any leverage if they know they have the perfect car you want. If they ask about a trade-in or financing, deflect and don't answer directly, tell them you're not sure. The only thing you care about now is getting the best price on the new vehicle. If they have something you're interested in, ask them the price. Don't be afraid to laugh at them if it's well above what you know you'll pay. Tell them what you're looking to pay and once you get their best offer call the next dealer and do the same thing. Once you've got a couple dealers with trucks you'd like, start pitting them against each other. Don't tell them who the other dealer is (they might have the same owner), but tell them you've got a better offer and see if they'll beat it. If they do, great, call the other dealer and ask if they'll beat the new low price. I've done this until I've been told, "If you find a better price, don't call back." Then you're in business and the hard part is finished. You know pretty much what you're going to pay before you walk in. Know everything there is to know about the truck before you go in. Know more than the salesperson- not hard to do. Know the MSRP and invoice prices of various accessories. As mentioned before, knowledge is power.

As for the trade-in, check the kelly blue book price. Be honest in your appraisal of its condition. Recognize any insured damages that you may be able to claim on your insurance and then pocket the cash after the deductible rather than pay to repair. Print out the KBB price to take with you. You may have to play hardball with the trade in because they will try to screw you on it if you got a great deal on the new car price. Be prepared to walk and mean it if they give you an insultingly low offer. It may be better to sell it to CarMax or something instead, but don't expect to get full KBB price. You're looking for the best overall deal. Because the new car price is already settled and they've got the sale dangling in front of them, you are in the driving position.

For financing, know your credit score and how it ranks. Apply (not just get pre-approved) for loans at a few different places so you know exactly what kind of rates and payments you have available. And here's a great bit of information. Toyota Financial Services pays dealers $200 for each new loan the dealer gives them. But other banks give the dealer $2000. So something you can try is to tell the salesperson that you want to go with toyota financial. But when you go back to sign everything with the finance guy, ask him what options he has if you don't go with Toyota Financial. They can use some of that $2000 to either buy down your interest rate or to sweeten the deal on the new car price. It's in both of your best interests for them to get that $2000. If you've got a better interest offer available elsewhere, you can typically refinance the loan at the new car rate after 121 days (if you haven't driven over 7500 miles). They may have you sign something saying if you do refinance earlier than that, you forfeit whatever extra the finance guy gave you off the new car price. They do this because the bank they sell the loan to has to have the loan for 121 days before the dealer gets their $2000. I plan to refinance at the end of the 121 days.

Doing this, I paid $28518 for a 2011 DCSB Off-road with DZ, RL, TO-A, and CF-N. Which is about $3500 off MRSP, $1500 below invoice, and $1000 below dealer cost. I hope this helps.

 

it was not 1000 even, but it was not more than 1,200. and dang, everything is exp out there haha

 

Thank for the info guys... wow Monumental.. that is some great stuff I have to wrap my head around.

So I walk into the dealership set on what I wanted to buy. A 2011 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Double Cab V6 AT 5 speed Magnetic Gray Metallic.

They had MSRP at $32,354. Included in the truck was carpet & mats and tow package along with the TRD SPORT PKG W/JBL AUDIO.

When it came time to negotiate the price I told him I wanted $30K out the door including fee and taxs.

Salesman said they cant do $30K, BUT can do $30K without fee and tax included.

I live in San Francisco and tax rate is 9.50% which mean tax would had been $2,850 and plus whatever for the fee. That would had total $33k+.

They tried to work me... saleman walking back and forward to his manager a few times then finally came back with this:

Dealer cost is $30, 328
margin is $1,096 <---they said they have to include this so that the dealership don't lost a profit
tax $2,881
fee $500
total cost $34,805

From what I seen on this forum... I was not going to pay about $35K.

I stuck to $30K... Saleman said he was willing to sell for $32K tax and fee including, but I wouldn't budge from 30K.

So I ended up walking. I guess I will search other dealership and try some of the things you guys listed here and see how it goes.


Thanks guys.

 

yeah just keep looking, there is better prices than that. good job walking out though! some guys i know will not walk out and will end up taking bad deals because o it

 

I got the same spec truck like you want for a 2010 for 29,779.

 

$29,779 including taxes and fee?

 

Expect more of the same if you continue talking to the salespeople. Find a dealership that has what you want, CALL the internet and/or fleet manager, ask them how much over cost they're selling it for (done, that's the lowest they'll go, saved you time and gas money). Have them fax you a copy of the invoice - (i can walk you thorough a few of the bogus items they get paid back for) - it's really quite simple. (there's a bit more to it, but not really much). If you lived down in So Cal, I could have the lowest price in probably 5 minutes (if the same fleet manager is there, and they're pricing has remained consistent), and you'd know exactly what you're paying over their cost,which is how you need to think about it - now how far below the number.

 

Invoice on that truck is 30322, so that's what he called dealer cost. Actual dealer cost is about $550 below that. That margin stuff is BS. And if you had a trade-in they should figure the taxable base on the new price after the trade in deduction which will reduce your taxes. There's always going to be some dealer fee of $300-500. $32k out the door was a pretty good price actually if it included taxes and fees like you said.

 

Im in So Cal looking for the EXACT SAME TRUCK. dblcb sport 4x4 MGM auto. The problem is, ive checked inventories and called about 10 dlr's and they all say the same thing. There is only 1 available and it would have to be brought in from San Diego. The lowest price ive been quoted out the door after taxes and fees is $35k. My mom works for Toyota, so that price is WITH my moms discount also.

OP if i was offered $32k out the door in So Cal I would have taken that without a doubt. For those of you that say you got it for 27k...if it was 4x4 you paid less than how much it costs Toyota to make it.

BTW: Im not budging either until i bring it down to $32k OTD with an alarm system installed. I also use to work for Toyota so I would check the cost price for accessories, the dlr is charging $700 for an alarm system whereas if it came on the truck when ordered, it would only be $300. Dealers know that times are desperate and they are DEFINITELY taking advantage! But ill get mine at a good price, im just going to have to be patient. So OP if you get another offer around $32 for a 4x4....Take it.

 

i just got mine on dec 26, 2010. its a access cab, v6 2.7 litter, sport trd with a short bed. only 2 miles on it....got it for 28 before taxes, you just gotten reson with the dealer. and its my first car with no credit. hopefully you find wat you want bro