(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

What about the before mentioned sound of compression leak into the crankcase ?

 

I'm not sure, they could have heard a hiss coming from the tube? I was told they smoked the intake too and found no leaks but clearly there would have been. If what they say is true then yes the compression is still low on cyl 6. If there is a leak into the crankcase then I expect the permanent code and more temp codes for cyl 6 air/fuel issues. We will see on my ride to work today.

 

Well sad day again. Drove extremely good for some reason for about 50minutes. No power loss no nothing. Ran flawlessly. Even had confidence to drive in the fast lane.

5 minutes from work. Engine light then I start to get loss of power around boost levels. Then pulled out into the road and had a flashing engine light, went into limp mode and had to pull over to the crank the truck. Ran fine after that.

Pulling up the codes I have P11F1 again which is still cyl 6 air fuel issue and I have a PO304 cyl 4 misfire which is probably what caused the limp mode.

Looks like new engine still on the books sadly.

 

@sherwoods_Fleet i know you said you had the ability to load your own tunes. I believe with VF tuner you can data log. Without a real readout its hard to say whats really wrong with the truck.

 

I can do a log on the ride home. I just need to know what to log that would help.

 

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So the shop you took it to originally had it for 7 months (7 months?!?!), put new valves in it, and got the compression up from 90 to 120psi right? And they didn't find the massive tear in that vent hose either? I think you see where Im going?

Everyone in here is saying engine swap, but Id probably start with tearing the head off and having a good look at it. Or have a competent shop do that. These engines are known for valve issues and Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance codes from what I recall.

 

yes luckily they haven't reached out for payment yet...hoping they absorb a lot of the cost. Last time I spoke with them the bill was like 7k for the valve job and he stated "he hasn't adjusted it yet". That's why its making me sick thinking about swapping the engine. Wish I just had that recommended to began with, now that's going to be wasted cost.

I have a difficult time trusting shops. Maybe ill look into removing the heads and see what's going on.

 

I think you found your problem. Zero chance the factory injectors have the flow to support your boost. Increasing the voltage on the fuel pump will do little when your injectors restrict the flow.

That and I'm guessing your wrenching skill probably split that hose. They don't just break like that without someone leaning on them.

I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune because the repair will probably cost you a small fortune. It is a hard lesson to learn. I just hope that you realize the extent of the damage and don't try to go cheap and slap on some new rings thinking it will all be better. That is simply throwing good money at a bad problem. Unless of course you were just planning on unloading the truck once you got it running, but that would be morally wrong if you didn't disclose that to the next buyer.

 

Okay, I think your done with this thread lol. Complete ignorance.

 

If you can, I would. @BLtheP has followed this burnt valve issue on the third gens much closer than I have. He can probably give better insight. But I think its worth looking into before dropping a small fortune on an engine swap. Admittedly most the issues I've seen (again I dont follow 3rd gens that close) have been cyl 1 & 3. But I dont think any of those cases had FI, you might be the first there

 

I know the shop machined new exhaust valves for it. While they were in there they went with OEM intake valves. So all the valves should be new. I took a video with the air intake off and could see the valves. Took a photo best I could.

 

Currently the engine is toast with its current diagnosis. I run 0w20 and live in GA. It's hot currently. If it ran for the majority of the hour trip to work fine could the oil thinned out enough to make the cylinder start losing compression worse? Is it worth trying to put in thicker oil to test the theory? Its a bandaid but if it eliminates the code it's clearly the issue with compression. It's very odd it ran so good today. If this is a good test to try what would be too thick of an oil?

 

I wouldnt even consider oil thickness, i would be looking at Intake temps, EGT (especially considering a bad valve diagnosis)

 

at this point, it wouldn't hurt to try it. Doubt it will change anything though.
You could try using a bore scope through the spark plug hole to look for any sign of cylinder wall scratching. Also, fwiw, maybe during the shop time, maybe, just maybe there could be a cam bearing issue causing bad intake flow?
if it were me, (being cheap and Mindless) I would use a borescope and mechanics stethoscope.

Oiiwak Borescope 8MM Dual-Lens, Industrial & Home Endoscope Inspection Camera with 4.3’’ 1080P Display Screen, 16.4 ft Waterproof Snake Camera, 7 LED Lights, 32GB TF Card

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085L65WKH?ie=UTF8

$26 Lisle 52750 Stethoscope Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015DLMOO?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

I'll purchase those to check it out. Which ones do you recommend?

 

I have the ones shown. Both work pretty well.
The camera does have a side view as well...

 

If you're going to be looking around a cylinder and bores i would advise you to get the one that has the moving head so you can actually see something besides the top of the piston

 

Same. Oil shouldn't be a part of it


You can do some research by searching the adjacent codes if you want
P11EC - cyl 1
P11ED - cyl 2
P11EE - cyl 3
P11EF - cyl 4
P11F0 - cyl 5
P11F1 - cyl 6