Tundra Conversion - Adventure4x4's Build

Wait you’re manual transmission correct?

Does your transfer case have the wheel speed sensor? If so, your speedometer may be getting fed that way. If that’s the case, unplug your abs module and test if your speedometer works. If it does, delete all the abs, switch to vacuum booster and remove the abs trouble lights in the dash lol

 

It is a manual but doesn't have the speed sensor on the back of the t-case. Maybe the speed is read somewhere else for 12-15 MT? I could unplug it anyways and see what happens haha. It doesn't hurt to try

 

If it’s not coming from the T case, most likely it’s also like the sport models like mine. Abs module takes wheel speed sensors and converts signal to speedometer. Which is where I’m at before I cut my truck in half. If you unplug your abs module. I bet your check engine light, vss, traction control lights light up with no speedometer working. I did want to talk to a tuner to see if maybe it’s possible to make changes at the ecu level for where the input is coming from, just haven’t gotten that far yet.

 

An option you can try which I wanted to try if I have to keep my abs computer is remove the electronics part(black) and mount it to a block off plate of sorts so that the electronics live there, but they are not housing the solenoids inside the hydraulic portion. Tuck this away somewhere and use whatever brake system you wish.


Edit for example this is a Camry abs module. Mount this to seal off the electronics onto something. You retain your wheel speed inputs and pass through your cluster. But that’s just my theory. Not sure what may go into trouble or check if it’s ran this way.

 

Thats what I did....split the ABS module in half kept the computer...made a cover...installed it on the fender, plugged it in.

 

Same, with the vacuum booster, no dash lights. Truck knows no difference. Speedo gets feed of t-case now.

 

I'll look into this. Thanks guys

 

Any chance you know the diameter of this bolt? And your LCA is just a hole that size the bolt goes through?

Also any chance you could measure from the center of a front hub to the ground then from the bottom of the LCA at the uniball adapter to the ground so I could get an idea of LCA clearance?

trying to make some bad decisions.

 

If you go to the camburg site for the kit, it will tell you the exact bolt used. I reamed and milled out the lower arm to fit the bolt and recess the misalignment.

I can check later if I have a chance. It's still tucked into the 17" wheel I have but it's tight.

Again, I advise you proceed with the mentality that much of what I have a done could be different for your application. There more than likely will be some trial and error involved. Whether that be the brakes, Ackerman angle, camburg curve, desired caster, etc. R&D ain't cheap. My definition of "working properly" could be completely different than yours. And I'll add that my setup is still not exactly how I want it. All part of the process.

 

Thanks. If you could just take a pic of the LCA and inside the wheel that should help me out. Tape measure would be a big plus too.

Different platform so it will be very different if I move forward, but I want to ballpark some measurements and see if my LCAs could work or not.

 

Center of hub to ground is about 17.5". My tires are a little over 36" in diameter. Ground to lower uniball adapter is about 12.5". Any camburg lower arm will work, you'll just have to adjust the upper pivot location.

 

More messing around with the shock tower. Image shows an inch higher than current position.

 

Something in the works from JD fab. I still prefer welding to the outside of the shock tower as opposed to the inside. Easier access but I guess i won't know for sure until I try it.

 

Yeah that's true as well. Seems like you would have to pull the whole tower brace.

 

The tower is welded on, the brace is bolt on at the tower, not just above the engine.

 

It looks bolt in. The ends of the two arms have slotted holes.

 

Thats my bad. I should have been more clear. I was referring to the shock tower. Not the brace itself.

 

Figured I'd simplify it to save a few bucks. Both fore and aft support plates are the same. I need to verify a few dimensions on the truck first, but I'll be sending it out for laser cut here soon. Then off to tearing the truck back apart again.

 

I figured as a sanity check I'd run through the changes with my more seasoned engineering colleagues. Funny enough one used to work on shock tower design for GM. He suggested a few minor changes since I wasn't planning on running FEA.

 

More on the changes. Bent the side supports to overlap onto the top support to limit the weld joints in compression. Also extended the lower legs down on the 90 degree face of the frame rail to the 3rd corner. I'll add the front top ribs back in.