Very confused which harness I need!

Hello FBC,

My brain hurts trying to figure out which harness is which I need. Please help, so I know which one to buy!

1) 2021 TRD PRO with stock LEDs

2) I'm about to receive a DD stealth light bar.

3) I'd like the light bar to be activated by the high beams, and also have a switch in the cab for global on/off. (If it were the DD stealth minus the high beams, I'd have it done without issue...but...)

4) I have raptor grill lights I would like to be activated with the DRLs and remain on with the main lighting.

5) I thought I was pretty good with electronics until I encountered Toyota's weird configurations.

That said, which FBC harness should I purchase?

Thank you for any help or information you can give me!

ALC

 

You want an LED T but possibly with high beams as an aux trigger. However, I have nothing plug and play for on/off/auto. If I had spare time I might get going on that, presumably high beams would be auto, but you're stuck in DIY land for that right now. I like the ABC rocker switches but that's precisely the project I never get to cause too busy picking up the pieces.

https://fbchs.square.site/product/t...le-lights/8?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

https://www.anytimebackupcamera.com/collections/switches

 

Thank you.

I should have specified that I don't care about auto. (It never works quite right, and makes me insane. I switch my beams the old fashioned way: with the stalk. I'm old and old fashioned, and want as much control as possible in all things.)

That said, will the harness you linked above (I'm assuming you meant high beams only) Work for my application? (ie: lightbar with highbeams; kill switch to turn lightbar off completely; and Raptor/grill lights DRL?)

The least important part is the grill lights, btw. I'm mainly concerned with the lightbar and the high beams; if the grill lights can't be worked in, that's no problem.

Danke,

ALC

 

high beam only is just one lead, for a trigger to a relay. Your DD harness would need to receive a +12v input to trigger on. That would work.

You may want a 4 wire output which is effectively the switch-pros just configured a little differently for you with drl,park,ground to the grille light feed via diode module and high beam for your light bar, unless you also want a backlight for the lightbar. If you want both backlight and grille lights then just a splitter and 2nd diode module and pigtail get that done.

But you need the DD harness with relays to deliver serious current, you only want to tap headlights for signals, not to feed amps.

 

The DD lightbar comes with the requisite harness and relay for connecting it to mains power and a cabin switch.

I *think* I understand I just need to tap off the high beams to one of the legs of that relay to bring the DD lightbar on with the them. (Or, more accurately off with the lowbeams.) So your T-harness driver high beams only would work for that. Correct?

I don't know what you mean by "backlight for the lightbar". For the lightbar itself? Or for the OEM-style switch in the cabin? The lightbar goes in the grill and has no backlight on it.

Where I'm getting lost is tying in the Raptor lights to the DRL. (Sub-critical, but it would be nice.) If I got your switch-pros version, I'd just need another relay signaled from the DRL leg. Is that correct?

(I'm sorry if I'm being obtuse. The last electrical mod I did was to a 2004 Nissan Frontier, and that was just a matter of running +12 to a OEM-style switch for driving lights, and tapping power off the IGN wire, if I recall correctly.)

[EDIT: that's actually not true, I did your license plate delete on backup. WOrked like a charm and took 10 minutes, if that.]

Anyway, thanking you for your help!

 

Some light bars have backlight. Sounds like yours does not.

grille light feed doesn’t need a relay if grille light draw is low. Mine are 100mA and directly on the DRL / park circuits with 1amp diode module to combine.

I can make a separate sku like switch-pros for this config but different output to match this use case.

 

Hi again.

Sorry, I meant to get back to you yesterday.

After thinking about it, and doing some further research, I think the easiest thing for me to do in my situation might be to just get your high beam only T-harness, then home brew something for the grille lights. It's all getting too complicated with including the DRL in the formula. (I'd be happy just having the grille lights on all the time, never mind the DRL. I could just do the add-a-fuse into the INJ fuse slot and call it a day, but I'm a little reluctant to have something so critical as the INJ tapped by a cheap piece of chinese-made crap.)

So, that said: Before I go ahead and order your High-beam only T, can you point me to a harness that would work for Lightbar only with highbeams, grille lights on with the engine?

Either way, I'll be ordering today. I need the lightbar up and working before the deer rut starts here in VT.

Thank you for your help!

 

Just order the switch-pros and I’ll build it the way you want it.

it’s not complicated.

 

Wow. That would be awesome. Thank you!

Order incoming.

(If there's no place to leave a note about our discussion, the order will be coming from Andrew Lindsay Cohen in Pownal, VT)

 

Oh and do you want a ground for the high beam trigger ? Or just the positive?

 

Which would you recommend? Is the ground necessary for some purpose? Is there a difference in safety for the harness or something?

I think I'd better rely on your judgement. For this!

 

Show me the DD harness. If it's already got it's own ground (as most do) then you don't need a ground to trigger the relay, just +12v and a single lead. If it has a ground input then you would, but presumably it sources all grounds for high current and the relay coil off a single hoop.

 

It does indeed have a ground (As pictured.) It pulls voltage directly off the battery, and has an inline fuse on the positive. (As it should.)

Here's a link to the wiring instructions so as to disambiguate the process, should it need to be so:

http://images.diodedynamics.com/doc..._4Runner_SS30_Light_Bar_Kit_Install_Guide.pdf

 

Post a photo of where/how you intend to splice in the high beam lead.

 

Frankly, I was hoping to pull it off the driver's side headlight plug, (pictured) as it's the most easily accessible location. I would, of course, take any other advice.

 

The diode dynamics harness, where you'd splice in the output from the LED T to trigger the light bar. The part not previously pictured

 

Oh. I see. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

I had assumed it would go to a second relay in series, or tapped into one of the legs of the main relay, in some way. (Peeling back the heat shrink as required.) Pictured is the relay plug.

As illustrated in the above PDF, one end of the harness goes to the lightbar, the other to the switch in the cabin, which merely triggers the relay, allowing +12 to reach the lightbar.

My head hurts.

 

Isn’t there a switch in the harness? We don’t really want to cut up that guy.

maybe just send it to me and I’ll deal with it? Dm incoming.

 

Hello. Was trying to email you direct but was unable to find a way. my question,
I’m looking for pigtails for my taillights, I have seen the t harness you sell. But that is more than what I’m looking for. I just need the pigtail that connects to the chassis tail light harness on the truck. 2019 Tacoma Trd Offroad, and just bare wires coming out. Pair for brake running light, pair for turn signal/running light, and pair for reverse, with maybe 10” of wire.
Hopefully that made sense. thank you.

 

I had repair leads at one point and someone ordered them because I priced them cheaper and then complained. Can't please everyone can you?

I see an order for rear turn T's but I'm guessing that's not you.

Honestly you'd be better off going to a junkhard with some wire cutters if you're simply repairing a trashed rear harness? You really want to drop $100 on getting that from me?