(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

No joke. Boost a pumps have been common place on Mustangs for 2 decades.

Do a compression or better yet leakdown test yourself. If results are low it'll be really easy to tell why. You'll have air getting past the rings, exhaust or intake valve. Do that and report back.

 

FYI. Compression numbers for 2gr-fks. Yours are way off

 

200? Yeah mines way off for sure. Yikes.

 

190-200 max psi is a normal range for most toyota engines. Not exclusively for 2gr-fks.
Unless the shop measured wrong.
Get obd app to pull codes, freeze frame and monitors status. See which cylinders misfire.
How is the coolant level?

 

Honest question: Does a voltage booster do any good on a PWM pump? Third gens low pressure pump in the tank is PWM driven isn't it?

 

I wouldn't worry much about comparing peaks; unless ridiculously low. All gauges read different. I'd be more worried about the line at the bottom. You want them within 15psi of each other.

Yes, Mustangs have been returnless since 1999.

 

I have followed it, but I still haven’t figured out why it happens. From one of the techs that frequents here, he said he’s done 10 or so of them (probably more by now) and he said every single one of them had the valve no longer sealing (water leaked past the closed valve). Why it gets to that point, is still anyone’s guess. Same for why it happens more on cylinder 1&3 than everywhere else (although there have been documented failures of each cylinder at least once). It’s a puzzling issue. Some
seem to think it’s the head. There is a seat installed into the head I’m pretty certain, so I’d think it would be that more than the head itself, but maybe the head tolerance contributed to the seat maybe deforming or something. I really don’t know.

I do know that if I had the issue out of warranty, I’m driving on it until it either grenades or becomes so poor to drive that I’m forced to fix it. I’m certainly not paying $6-12K to the dealer to swap the head and install 2 new valves and reuse all the others. I’ll go junkyard motor and swap it by myself long before I’ll pay the dealer that much for the repair job.

I’d be very interested to see why this one burnt #6. Being FI and not one of
the more common problematic cylinders, my guess is the tuning ran lean or something. But that’s a wild guess.

 

Im getting multiple random misfires heading home. I might need a fuel pump hell idk. I still haven't done the fuel pump recall.

 

When the fuel pump goes, it's a very pronounced stumble, like you're running out of gas (which you are, in a way). When mine went, it was down to about 3.5 psi and was only noticeable when I was hard on the gas for a couple of seconds.

 

Mine feels like I lose gas. And it's random. If I ease on the gas a gradually accelerate it doesn't feel like it stumbles. If I hammer down like pulling out into traffic it starts stumbling and if I don't back off the gas it will misfire and go into limp. But back off the gas I can re accelerate slowly and no issue. Then sometimes like this morning it's fine and I have no stumbling.

 

Just got off with yotawerx. They want me to try to go back to prochargers tune and see how it does. He was very helpful.

 

Might want to have someone put a gauge on the fuel line up by the HP fuel pump.

 

I stopped by advanced auto and bought a fuel pressure gauge. Looks like the high pressure pump is passenger side of the engine compartment. Can you tap just into the fuel line somewhere? Or do I need special connectors to connect to the lines on the high pressure pump?

 

That, I'm not sure. I believe the guy that confirmed my pump was bad connected to the inlet of the HP pump.

 

Return and spend money on obd2 scanner.
Phone based apps will be more effective.
Toyota a has extensive list of PIDS, including fuel pressure reading for high and low.

 

Good point let me see if I can get it to read on vf tuner software.

 

Vf tuner software is junk and not suitable for the diagnostic

 

maybe you can see if my fuel pumps are working from this?

most of the time at the peaks it was hesitating or feeling like fuel was being lost.

 

heres another run. This one misfired at the end and i had a flashing check engine light plus limp mode multiple bogs or loss of power during this run.

 

Your fuel pressure numbers are normal.
What you need is a scanner that reads freeze frame, and ability to clear codes.
How many parameters can you display? Add all 6 cylinders misfires, short and long fuel trims, lambda for both banks