(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

I'll check at 3000 in Park

 

Would this be a lot simpler to diagnose on a pre-computer era engine or does all of the sensor data make it easier to zero in on a problem?

 

Here

 

Well there goes the theory of a bad HP pump

 

Pull the freeze frame to see the conditions for your code.



So how does the fuel module work? Does it kick in at the specific load/boost?

You have these hp pressure values that well above hp pump rate. I heard that our pump has 20 000 kPa limit. Your numbers are above 25 000 kPa at the beginning if the log

 

As far as I know it just boosts the voltage so it just holds a higher pressure from the start.

 

I'd say it should make it easier. My code just can mean a bunch of different things and trying to narrow down what it is without just replacing the motor.

 

Remove the voltage booster, the ECU should control the low pressure fuel pump target pressure. If the fuel is not pumping enough in its stock configuration, you will be able to properly diagnose with the scanner. Who knows what that voltage booster is doing to the system.

Given your issue is intermittent it could be related to the ECU doing a drive cycle test, could be testing the EVAP system, or doing a cycle on the D4S injection system, and that is triggering the problem. It could also be related to Knock learn, it can change over time and maybe it gets to a point that makes the issue pop up.

As other have mentioned, get a good scanner and read the freeze frame. The freeze frame is a snapshot of all the values the ECU used to decided to show a check engine light, that will allow you to see everything at the time of the failure. Don't spend money on a HP fuel pump yet, spend it on a good scanner instead.

 

On your misfire only log, cylinder 4 started misfiring at 4400 rpms. The count went to 42 or something misfires.
Need to get the freeze frame to get the state of fuel system, vvti, etc.
You need to start methodically troubleshoot the issue before throwing money at it

 

I think my cheap Amazon one does freeze frame but what scanners do you guys use for that? Maybe I should order a better one, especially if it saves me from doing an engine swap

 

I use the following and works pretty well:

$159 Wireless OBD2 Scanner for Android & iPhone, XTOOL Anyscan A30M V2.0 2025 Bidirectional Scan Tool with Free Updates, All System, 23 Resets, CANFD, FCA, Crank Sensor Relearn, Upgraded Ver. of A30

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KT9XNML

 

Thank you!

 

I just want to say thank you. This scanner seems like a beast. I love the amount of data on this thing.

 

Okay with this new scanner I pulled up two codes and screenshot a bunch of freeze data. Maybe someone can see what's happening. I don't know how to pull a full log yet easier than screen shot off this scanner app so I apologize for the amount of screen shots lol.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ST4ACN7WQivbNBTo9

 

You should have just bought Ford ranger, instead of putting after market procharger into the truck designed for reliability & capability not so much for power. But well, do they not have warranty or something on procharger? what kind of bs is that

 

Who's on Tacoma forum talking about should have bought a Ford ranger? That's wild.

It's about 2 years old now. No warranty.

 

I meant the warranty on the procharger, it failed after 6months, did they not have warranty at least an year?

 

Cylinder 4 misfires
1.You are in Open Loop. I need to look at my logs to find the rpm range to check the status. But I think you should be in CL. Something with O2 sensors?
EDIT:
OlDrive is a normal state - fuel enrichment

2. Engine runs in Direct injection mode
3.LTFT for bank 2 close to upper limit before setting another code.
EDIT. Total fuel trim for B2 is over 200.
Check compression. The scanner should have a active test to run the compression test.
Then look at direct injector for cylinder 4 , coil&plug

 

Okay small update. Watched the short and long fuel trim for a bit with the new OBD2 reader. Long fuel trim at idle would stay at +10 while short would stay around 0. Once driven it would go way higher under boost. I watched the short trim and started spraying brake cleaner all over intake parts. FINALLY I hit a fitting that showed promise. When I hit the fitting shown in the procharger boost manifold photo the short fuel trim would hit -10!! Going to unscrew it, put some thread tape on it and tighten her down and see how the fuel trims look. This might be the ticket to not having to replace the motor.

 

check if your scanner has this active test