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Going thru camshaft position sensors

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Copyman, Sep 15, 2024.

  1. Sep 15, 2024 at 3:27 PM
    #1
    Copyman

    Copyman [OP] Member

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    Hey yall. A little help. I have a 2004 3rz with 371K. I recently replaced the cylinder head assembly due to loss of compression on 2 and 3. Starts and runs fine... until I shut it off and restart it. The engine shakes and it pops a P0340. I replace the Camshaft position sensor and the engine runs smooth again and the code is gone. Went for a short ride, came home and shut it off. Later I started it and the same shaking and code. I have another sensor ordered. Lucky they are cheap. Anybody know what's taking out the camshaft position sensor?
    Thanks in advance. Dan.

    IMG_0414.jpg
     
  2. Sep 15, 2024 at 3:30 PM
    #2
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    A few OE parts from fancy trucks
    Might want to drop the politically tainted photo prior to moderator intervention.

    Hope you find the solution to your problem soon!
     
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  3. Sep 15, 2024 at 3:35 PM
    #3
    Stuck in VT

    Stuck in VT Well-Known Member

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    Could it potentially be doing it's job. Went through this on a Honda after a timing belt change. One mechanic said it was the computer, one said bad CPS. Last guy , looks into it and says everything is working fine except somehow it jumped out of position. 3 tows. 3 mechanics to figure it out.
     
    Dalandser likes this.
  4. Sep 15, 2024 at 10:37 PM
    #4
    DoktorSlowburn

    DoktorSlowburn Well-Known Member

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    Escondido, CA
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    4runner seats and center console, ARB rear locker, Icon 1.5” AAL, Bilstein 5100 on 4th notch in front (to support future tube bumper & future winch), 4600s in the rear. In-Cab CB radio. Hella 500 Driving lights. All-Pro Baja front bumper.
    It sounds to me more like you have a timing issue. I’d look into that before assuming it’s a bad sensor or false code.
     
  5. Sep 15, 2024 at 10:49 PM
    #5
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Check all your grounds in the engine compartment area
     
    Copyman[OP] and DoktorSlowburn like this.
  6. Sep 16, 2024 at 6:44 AM
    #6
    Copyman

    Copyman [OP] Member

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    Good thoughts. I'm not convinced it's a timing issue only because it runs smoothly and without codes after I replace the CPS. But I'm not gonna rule it out just yet.
    I will take another look around for any loose or discounted grounds.
    I'm also not ruling out the quality of the $13 CPS's I'm getting from China (Amazon).
     
  7. Sep 16, 2024 at 6:48 AM
    #7
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Its not a good idea to use non oem engine sensors.....
    even the difference in resistance in the pig tails can kill bill...
     
    DoktorSlowburn likes this.
  8. Sep 16, 2024 at 7:10 AM
    #8
    DoktorSlowburn

    DoktorSlowburn Well-Known Member

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    Yeah as mentioned above, when it’s something to do with engine functionality, best to go OEM. And I’m the kinda guy who will always use aftermarket where possible lol. But when it comes to mission critical stuff, always best to shell out.
     
    SR-71A likes this.
  9. Sep 16, 2024 at 7:21 AM
    #9
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Yeah on my engine everything is oem....

    rest of the truck is mostly from Napa......SKF...ect
     
  10. Dec 7, 2024 at 4:08 PM
    #10
    Copyman

    Copyman [OP] Member

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    As it turned out, I believe it was an ECM relearning issue. After trying every trick and home remedy I could find on the ol interweb, on how to reset my ECM, all at the same time, the idle smoothed right out, it stopped popping CSP and now runs like new again.
    Crisis averted.
     

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