Stripped oil drain plug

I don't know how they can even spec a torque for a bolt that uses a rubber (?) coated washer. Seems like there would be a lot of variability in that.

 

How many chugga chugga’s are 30 ft/lbs?

 

The fact that it doesn't show a wet/lubricated spec and a dry spec really makes me suspect that 30ft-lbs is way over for "wet"... I think the rule of thumb is something like wet is 3/4 of the torque of dry. Or 25% less... If that's the case and those torque specs are for initial assembly (dry) then 30ft-lbs should be 22.5ft-lbs wet...

I'm not an automotive mechanic though I worked on large static hydraulic systems and did a lot of high torque assembly. Stuff that called for 400ft-lbs dry was 300ft-lbs wet.

 

Someone mentioned a used oil pan from a junkyard. Buy a new one imo. Too many what if's.

 

Agree that a dry plug torque value should not be used. Wet is 25-30 percent lower BUT how much of the change dry to wet is lost given a new, dry gasket which is a source of some of the friction when tightening. I would think 25 ft pounds or a tad lower would be just fine if you wanted a torque value.

 

Yeah I'm going to my local dealer on lunch break and ordering a new one. Not big on the ebay pans (who knows if they have dents or similarly stripped threads) and lkq has nothing. I was moreso wondering if a helicoil was a good option for this application, and thanks to the guys on here I'm not going that route.

Didn't even think about wet vs dry torque.

Do any of you know if the oil pan just requires Toyota FIPG rtv material, or do you use other gasket material in addition? Haven't seen a good answer on that.

 

30 ft/lbs is for dry threads.
The only time those threads are going to be dry is the first time the bolt is put into the pan. Before oil is ever added to the pan.

If, and IF, you are going to torque the drain plug. Take a shop rag and carb cleaner and clean the pan where the crush washer goes. Clean the drain bolt. And then clean the threads in the pan with a shop rag and carb cleaner. Stick the drain bolt in quick, before more oil seeps down into the threads. And then torque if you desire.

I’d just go by feel. My best advice is tighten it like a spark plug. Then just a wee bit more.

 

I will see if I can look it up for you in a bit.

 

A WM dbag rifled a drain plug in my ‘92 Safari. F. I bought this and it worked actually better than the oe. Yes it hangs there and gets covered in draining oil. Don’t care. $10.00

 

If it works, it works.
No tools required fix.

It's one of those fixes that "isn't right". But it works.

 

It's a 2 piece pan. So it shouldn't be too hard to change.
You just need the lower pan.

Toyota just uses RTV. Nothing else. No other gasket.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the links and help much appreciated

 

I used the permatex black when I did my Tundra. Zero leaks 2 years later.

Just use common sense when tightening the pan bolts. You are going to be amazed at how easy they are to remove.

I recommend using a 1/4 drive wratchet.

 

approximately 1/2-1 "ch," depending on your flavor of impact.

 

No kidding. They are either rusted and stuck "tight" until you break it free.
Or they are LOOSE.

The bolts pretty much just hold it there. The RTV seals it and "glues it on".

 

Toyota's FIPG is a pretty good sealant. Ski

 

Seriously. I don't understand why there's even debate about what the proper thing to do is here. It's extremely obvious that replacing the drain pan with OEM is the only sure way to maintain the safety of the engine. Why even bother with a bandaid fix on something so important lol?

 

It’s because we wanted to see if the bandaids will work!

It’s really because replacing with new parts is a good way to go only if you have the money for it. So that’s really a personal decision.

 

I tighten drain plugs just snug. Has been working for over 50 years.

 

There really is no absolute right or wrong for everyone. Options are often needed. That's what "discussion" forums are about.