Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

When I bought my truck in 05' and wanted to put a small lift on it nothing was available yet so Deaver sold me a universal 3 leaf AAL pack that they had that just went on the bottom of the pack. Looks like they still have the same thing Taco specific now. I wonder if something that simple would give the guys that are having the sag problem an cheap fix ?

Like this :

https://deaverspring.com/product/ta...years-3-leaf-overload-replacement-1-1-2-lift/

 

I've read a couple of times in maybe this read or others that have reached out and they have sold them a replacement leaf or leafs to swap out for the H70. I wanted to do this as well. I reached out a couple of times in the past but wasn't able to get ahold of anyone and no calls back. Could be bad luck since others seem to have good luck with them.

 

In my few attempts to navigate the 904 pages, I feel like a few people have mentioned using JD’s 934 axles on TC’s +2” kit, but I can’t seem to search specific enough terms to find the details.

can anyone clue me in to issues or adjustments that had to be made for this kind of fitment? I’m looking hard at the Camburg trail series +2” kit because I really want that slapper arm.

 

If you are not already considering or have already done, start with JD Fabs lower control mount kit. It makes no sense to bolt on any parts to the factory crap mounts. I would also avoid reinforcing the factory stuff. Any questions about the 934 axles from JD that you have just give them a call.

 

JD has told me I might need to trim the 934 side of the inner axle, and I trust them, I just wondered if anyone had already gone down this road and had any tips for this particular situation.

As far as JD’s lower mounts go: nah. I think it’s super cool they offer it and have considered it in the past to get the wheel forward, but I don’t want to be stuck with their skid plate nor am I disappointed with the marlin crawler gussets that I already have.

 

There are also aftermarket arms that move the wheel forward and add a lot more caster - I think by LSK?? - but they will increase steering radius and possibly cause bump steer

 

The JD +4 arms are 7/8 fwd from stock. The LSK race kit I just bought are 1.25 fwd. Not sure what the LSK bolt on kit is at though.

 

so what is the consensus on spring rate for a double cab w/ +4 ?

 

I finally got around to machining the misalignment spacers for the JD UCAs and was able to move the UCA backwards by 0.250" to gain more caster
(3rd gen, stock LCA tabs with marlin gussets, 2.25" kit on 500lb springs)
prior to moving the UCA back I was maxed out on adjustments to get 2.25deg of caster but with this move i was able to dial it to 3.875deg. Street manners are much improved.

 

debating on doing this but going the other direction. I have the stock width .75” upper arms and want to move them forward. I have the lower arms maxed forward for maximum caster but I’m just barely rubbing on the firewall with 35”s. It’s easier to machine the misalignment spacers than tub the firewall.

 

You have to move the uppers forwards a lot to move the tire forwards but it’ll affect caster pretty quickly. I would be surprised if you can get the tire away from the firewall before making the truck miserable to drive.
Do you have any room to run less offset?

 

This. I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir here, but thought to type it anyway. The exact numbers aren't on the top of my head, but I had the thought to move upper forward to move the tire forwards, but due to the location of the spindle with respect to the UBJ and LBJ, moving the upper forwards by 3/8" will only move the wheel forward 1/8" (roughly 3:1 from what I think, might be more like 4:1) But that 3/8" will crater your caster numbers to the point of it not able to track straight.
Your best bet after all the things I've been through, is max the LCA all the way forward (you can do this more if you have an adjustable upper to compensate for camber and caster separately) and shoot for 4-4.5 degrees of caster. If you still hit firewall, get a tire that has a more rounded side lug instead of square, and then start hammering the body and do a max cut on the cab mount.
In the end after several different combos and tries, I got the JD lower arm subframe, set with the pucks to 3/4" forward as a baseline, and the cams set to roughly get me a 1/2" more netting 1.25" forward on the lower. Upper is adjustable, and started with around 5.5 degrees caster and that was just as miserable to drive as not enough caster. adjusted the caster down with the upper arm, now about 4.2 degrees, and it drives great. With cab mount chop (not relocate), hammering the inner fender/cab/firewall, the place I rub is at the top of the fender well, up by the headlight and under the battery. This is with stock length arms, FN wheels 17x8.5, 35" Yokohama Geolandars that are wider at the tread than most 12.5 tires, and a 3/4" spacer on the hub to get the tire out far enough to not rub the UCA (only a problem with wider than normal spec 12.5" tires. I no longer rub anywhere on the back of the tire/fender area. Only upper forward inner fender, and not enough to justify a full blown chop/clearance. I did have to put a small spacer under my bumpstops to prevent more up-travel and I'm ok with that. If you have long travel suspension, the tire may be out far enough for that rubbing to be a non issue, assuming your fenders are trimmed. If you can get a wheel with more backspace (less offset??) or remove any spacers, that will help clearance while turning.

 

Don't do this please. Unless you just plan to keep it parked for instagram pictures with 35s

 

Joe, Did you hint that you were working on something new a few months ago? Something in the tube structure realm for Tacoma's?

 

Trying to figure out an alignment issue that's causing some loud rubbing when I'm making U-turns and backing into parking spots (haven't noticed it all on trails, oddly enough). Already hammered the pinch welds, chopped the cab mounts, and trimmed the inner and outer fenders. Rubbing on the driver side is right around the screws for the foot pad left of the brakes, and in the same location for the passenger side.

Before, no rubbing:
UCA- SPC
LCA- OEM
Caster- 3.7/4.2
Tires- 35x10.5
Wheels- 4Runner SEMA
Spacer- 1.25
Suspension- OME (Stock Length)
Coil Buckets- Stock

After, rubbing on both firewalls:
UCA- Camburg (Stock Length)
LCA- OEM
Caster- 5.0/5.0
Tires- 35x10.5
Wheels- 4Runner SEMA
Spacer- 1.25
Suspension- King (Mid-Travel)
Coil Buckets- Double-Sheared

I'm guessing that the rubbing is because the Camburgs have the uniball set closer to the cab than the ball joint was on the SPCs? Is this something I can fix just by adding more caster (it looks like I can get another half-degree, based on the pre-alignment values) at the cost of an unknown amount of ride height (according to Camburg), or am I definitely going to need to do more hammering and cutting?

 

The use of spacers is not helping. Stick with a wheel with 0 offset and no spacers would be a start.

 

Sorry, I should have specified that I'm running SEMAs, so they're in pretty tight even with the spacers. Backspacing should be 2.91" with the wheel and spacers if I did my math right, so the offset is -27.7mm? The spacers are on there so that I don't rub the UCA (I was hitting the SPCs without them) and to clear my Archive rear shock relocate.

 

not sure why? It is really close to clearing at the moment and I’m not ready to swap to the .25 arms and the lower subframe (and /or the +2.25 kit). Other than spending a little time pulling the uca’s and running down to my old work to use the lathe it costs me nothing and would likely keep me off the firewall. Even if I lose a degree to a degree and a half I’ll still be in the 4-4.5 range.

 

JD showed off some hints at a shock tower crossover brace on IG a while back

 

You have more caster now than before, I would bet your wheels were further forward because the LCA was further forward with the SPCs, as well as the SPCs not having as much "additional" caster built in. If the camburg are a std style non adjustable, then maybe you can figure a way to move the upper forward and reduce caster with custom spacers/washers? Or, you could get some fresh ball joints and put the SPC's back on, where you can clock and set camber separately, which would allow you to put the lower control arm even further forward. Now, I'm assuming they aren't all the way forward because you have to set camber with the lower eccentrics so they cannot be "all" the way forward... With this, I'd bet you will go back to not rubbing. another option is to get some 3/4" spacers, the .5" reduction from your 1.25" will have less scrub and that in itself could keep the tire off the firewall, but question is whether or not it will keep the tire off the UCA as well.