Caster/Camber Alignment Shims

I want to make a few small alignment tweaks to my 1999 SR5 RWD. I just finished replacing ball joints and tie-rod ends.

The parts stores near me sell kits of assorted shims, but they are “universal” in that they can’t look them up by vehicle. However, there are several different sizes and shapes to choose from.

If anyone has a non-installed shim laying around that is known to be correct for the 1999 two-wheel-drive Tacoma, could you please post a photo and tell me the outside dimensions and slot width? Then I can order the correct assortment without having to first pull one out of my truck.

 

I was a little surprised that no one had this information, so when I pulled one of my shims to take to the store I also recorded the data and will post it here for posterity.

Dimensions in Millimeters:

Height (without tab): 28.1
Width: 35.1
Slot Width: 12.4

 

BTW, when performing this alignment (first time for me on this vehicle), I found that all but one upper-control-arm mounting bolt could be loosened with a short 17-mm socket and breaker bar.

The left front bolt needed a long box-end wrench. I had a short wrench, but couldn’t get enough leverage to loosen the bolt. So I made an extension for the wrench using nylon lacing cord and a galvanized bar left over from a chain-link fencing project. Believe it or not, it held long enough to loosen the bolt!

 

This is for a 5 lug truck is it not? An important distinction to make as 6 lug trucks do not use shims to adjust caster and camber.

 

Interesting, I didn’t realize that 6-lug hubs were even an option for my 1999 2-wheel drive SR5. You’ve seen them on this model?

 

I think the RWD prerunners got 6-lug but the rest are 5.

 

Definitely not interchangeable. The suspensions are very different.

My point was, based on the info you gave, it was difficult to determine what it was you were referring to. The missing piece was that you have a 5 lug truck. Most on here have 6 lug trucks so that probably explains the lack of response to your inquiry.

 

2rz's got 5 lug......

3rz's got 6 lug......

5vz is a mixed bunch.......some of rwd ones got 5 lug.


2Rz is too small for 4x4......hence the need for 4runner and tacoma 6lug frames



5 lug front is just like toyota sedans......only adjustable by toe and camber......no castor available.

Even camber adjust is mickey mouse by shimming the upper arm on 5 lug..


6 lug is a completely different animal...different planet

 

LOL, caster adjustment on my (5-lug) Tacoma is quite simple to do. Like any similar setup, the procedure is differential shimming of the upper control arm.

It’s correct that a lot of modern front-wheel-drive automobiles have no built-in caster adjustment. Many only allow adjustment of toe-in without suspension modification.

 

Since I was asking about shims for my upper control arms, I’m surprised anyone got confused about whether or not my suspension uses shims.

Anyway, the (apparently minority) owners who do own similar vehicles will understand, and some may hopefully benefit from, the information I saved.

 

I agree.

 

I get what you are saying but sometimes new (inexperienced) owners will come here with preconceived ideas about how thing work. I wasn't trying to offend or differentiate, just clarify.

Glad to see you are contributing to the 5 lug pool of knowledge.

 

Thanks - I‘ve been working on cars all my life (I just turned 70), but I don’t yet have much Tacoma-specific experience. It’s my first Toyota. I do plan to keep it going as long as possible, because my father bought it new for his 75th birthday and I recently inherited it.

 

Like to see that caster adjustment.....

currently only way would be to redrill/slot offset holes in the wall above the coil cap..
where the upper arm mounts.

Certainly cant change the lower ball.....

Like a fork on a bike......generally cant change the rake

 

Pretty standard procedure. The adjustment is built into the upper control-arm mounts.

Here’s the simplest example I can think of:

Remove a shim from beneath the rear attachment bolt of the upper control arm and move it to the front bolt. This moves the upper ball joint forward with respect to the lower (changing the “rake”).

Once you’ve done it, it becomes easier to visualize.

 

Well okay.....good luck with that.

 

Years ago doing alignments I recall GM using these on n everything

 

Yes, at one time it was the de facto setup on most vehicles. It’s actually a good system because it’s quite intuitive and the adjustment never “slips”.

It requires parts instead of just twisting a cam, and a few simple calculations after measurement to tell you what thickness of shims to add or remove, but it’s straightforward and easily understood.

 

Super sad thing to my local Firestone wouldn't/couldn't align my sons 98 s-10. Apperantly they never saw such shims or tools. (A crow bar/big screw driver works fine). Brain drain! Hmmmph

 

I’ve always heard that Firestone was supposed to be pretty good, but I guess it really comes down to the experience and understanding of the particular tech.

I haven’t used an alignment shop since I was a teenager, and I just turned 70. I tend to keep my vehicles for a long time (currently 403,000 on my Tacoma and 235,000 on my Ram), which means factory settings are often wrong for me. Especially since much of my driving is straight-line highway.

For example, on RWD vehicles the factory setting for toe can result in excess wear on the inside of the front tires if parts are starting to loosen up with age.