OFFICIAL - 3rd GEN 275/70r17 Tire Thread

Thanks to this thread, I pulled the trigger.
-Falken Wildpeak at4w 275/70/17
-Eibach stage 2r lift
-Icon RXT leaf pack (option one)
-Spidertrax 1.25 spacers
-CMC and some fender trimming

 

on the 275s

 

Nice choice - same here 275/70/17 but Toyo OC Also Eibach Springs. Replaced stock with Bilstein 5100 to level the ride. No rubs no bumps on the trail. Enjoy it brother . Its a beaute. OH and a shout out to everyone on TW as I too was inspired for my tires, wheels, suspension.

 

Thanks bro. You have a sweet setup. Haha I’ve spent so much time on these threads in order to make the right choices for what I’m looking for. I’m happy so far, but I realized it’s just the beginning

 

Found deals online so I decided to lifted my long bed.. Bilstein 5100, eibach and icon aal. 275/70r17 falken wildpeaks

 

Nice ride - I was wanting those wheels but always out of stock when I try, so I go with Method 701 - SCS F5 look great , easy to clean. Hele on

 

My rig is 3000 miles from 300k. Currently in the body shop after smoking an Owl at 70mph. I’ve been rolling on 255/80/17 Cooper Discoverer ST - rotate every oil change and at the rate I drive that is about every month. Got 90k on those tires and they’re done. Got my money’s worth for sure. Suspension set up is 6112’s up front 6/5 setting. SPC UCA’s, rear is 5160 Remotes on a Icon AAL level 2. 17x8.5 - Zero Offset Black Rhino Chambers. Will a 275/70/17 fit - no rub? Or will I still need to do a CMC?

 

Quick update…LT255/80/17’s are history. Absolutely zero fitment issues w LT275/70/17’s - crazy how a new set of meats makes your ride feel new again. Time to log some miles and crest the 300k mileage mark!

 

Does anyone know if 275/70R17 will work with 17"x8.5" wheels with 0 offset with a stock 2021 TRD Pro?? Typical Method wheel setup.

I've seen these tires fit on a TRD Off Road but with skinnier and positive offset wheels

 

I have a 2023 SR5 and am considering KO3’s 265/75/16 with 1.5” spacers. Would love to hear opinions. Could I go bigger without a lift? I don’t want to get new wheels or upgrade to 17”. These are fine. Thanks!!

 

depends, seems different for every truck but if you want proper clearance at that height and at full travel, you'll want a cmc and a fender liner trim for sure. I'd say safe bet is expect some cutting

 

Didn't want to do a CMC. I'll get 265/70 and see if next time I can go 275. Thanks

 

yep skip the 275s if you want to stay within the non cut route, the visual differences aren't really worth it IMO. I'm running 275s and I've had to do a lot of clearancing to avoid any rubbing off-road

 

I know, it 0.25" of sidewall but I don't know why I want it so bad lol

 

Same reason I want 285s now that I have 275s LOL. I get it man, just trying to save you some headache if at all possible. I went the 275 route thinking I'd be safe, well let's just say I wasn't exactly "safe". I'm running RRW RS7s 17x8.5 +0 wheels

First just CMC and some fender liner trimmings:

Then after new UCAs that pushed them back towards the firewall, some plastics and some pinch weld work:


I agree they look killer, but some people it's not worth all the work for, and I totally get that.

 

K yeah, it's more work than I want to do right now. But looks worth it eventually, your truck looks dope

I should just be happy I'm getting new wheels.

 

I am running 275/70/r17 with a -10 offset and haven't done anything except JBA UCA. I don't rub anywhere, but I've never taken this truck on any serious trails. I had fully expected to do some trimming and CMC, but haven't had to do it. Maybe the JBA's with the built in added castor has something to do with it? My truck now has 4.5 degree castor on each side.

 

Increased (higher) caster values actually moves the tire towards the firewall so that should be making it worse if anything actually. Hence why I rubbed more with the UCAs than I did with the stock UCAs. Like I said, it's really dependent on each vehicle, not all of them will rub, I had much worse rubbing on the passenger side versus the drivers side. I have likely 1.25-1.5 in of lift in the front with no desire to go any higher so I just had to make the clearance physically.

A lot of guys will tell to get your truck aligned for clearance, but I personally think it's a bandaid fix if you're trying to stuff large tires under these trucks. Obviously for 34s+ you start to need very specific alignments to clear, but I'm talking about alignments specific to fit 33s or smaller. I don't wheel very hard, but I do my fair share of tire stuffing and I didn't want to get hung up on my own fender/pinchweld/cab mount when stuffing off-road. So I did the clearancing to avoid that, albeit a bit aggressive but it was going to get done either by me or from my tires eventually.

 

It moves the upper control arm ball joint in and moves the lower ball joint on the lower control arm out (away). To me it appears that it moves it away from the cab mount.

 

it isn't necessarily in or out, as that's camber. its either towards the front or the rear of the truck. High caster UCAs achieve extra positive caster by moving them towards the rear of the truck which pushes the tire towards the firewall. Yes, you're correct you don't necessarily only do this adjustment with the UCA, if you move the LCA forward and the UCA back, you'll get more positive caster but it won't be as close to the firewall.

I was speaking on keeping the LCA the same and just adding a high caster UCA, which is just moving the upper pivot point of the spindle towards the rear of the truck, or closer to the cab mount/firewall. Which is the issue I ran into.