Long Travel BS Thread

Yea the lbj in that pic on orw is upside down. End of the tie rod is probably similar place to eliminate bump steer.

stock the bulk of the arm goes up then back then the double shear would go straight back. TC uniball the bulk goes straight back and the double shear goes up and back.

Think I decided I’m going to leave the lbj and outer tie rod stock on the 4runner. Trying to find a tacoma I like then I’ll look at retrofitting second gen tundra stuff.

 

So, the wife’s truck has been a guinea pig to test a few things I’ve had in the back of my head for a while. One of the main ones being a steering solution that doesn’t break the bank.

For starters, we have now accomplished making the OEM pump put out the same pressure and flow as a TC pump. For a cost of 0$ and some time. That savings alone buys some bypasses.

We have also eliminated about 80% of feedback to the wheel. (Unrelated to the pump). Still going to continue chasing as much as I can.

I truly believe we may be on a path to making the factory steering put in some work for the majority of folks out there. With a rack you can simply buy as a reman unit at nearly any parts store.

The OEM configuration definitely had some issues that led to failures when used heavily. But seemingly as those issues are eliminated reliability and longevity increases exponentially.

Pretty anxious to see where all of this goes as it would save a whole lot of headaches for most!

 

I started off with 500# springs on my JDf kit and I had the collars all the way up and it sat very high. That’s on a 2wd also. I’ve since swapped to 450# and slowly breaking in the front end, one trip at a time (only 5 months old).

 

I feel like it definitely takes the g-outs better with a 500#. I feel like I could've ran a 16x500 and had the same result/lower ride height

 

I’m about 3-4 months out from putting in the JDfab Howe kit and a new 3rd gen rack. Hurrry

 

I'm in Texas and extra brake/turn/running lights are fine - they're common on headache racks for trucks.

I've had my bar (similar to the RTL-S) for several years now and never an issue.

 

Curious how California will like it

I'm tired of breaking taillights everytime the truck touches dirt. I think last summer I went through 2 or 3 pairs lol

 

Lighting is, and always has been a DOT related thing. States kinda pick and choose how they handle it. Commie Cali would have me nervous. But you guys have fuckin trophy trucks with a steel cab running around with plates. I’m sure you’ll be fine.

 

I believe as long as they are still red you should be good.
I probably wouldn’t run around 24/7 with amber as my only tail.
I believe they have to be at the rear most section of the car as well for running tails.
I’m in CA too.

a few guys here have made their own “OEM” replacement tails with tube, plate, and some KC cyclones I think.
@snowsk8air2 and @Basikbiker build threads

 

Mine sits high on 18x500 as well. My solution is going to be to add a little weight (probably a winch) and valve properly. Don't want to be undersprung and preloading to all heck. Other variable is if you have passengers in the car, that weight gets distributed in the front as well. Depends how light you wanna keep the rig.

 

depends on the cop. you can get away with it, but needs to be SAE/DOT approved especially in CA
https://www.carlightings.com/What-is-DOT-SAE_ep_42.html

 

Seems like KC is the only one that makes DOT approved chase lights.

 

Those of y’all with the AP LT kit, how often you replace your poly control arm bushings? And those of y’all with other brands, how often?

 

Poly bushings suck. It’s all going to depend on usage. My mid travel was annual but used hard. Now the same kit on the wife’s truck used for commuting/hunting is every 18 months. Delrin or uniball over everything.

 

Can someone please explain the affects of where you place your spring and shock on a lower link. Closer or further from the axle. Obviously, further from the axle requires a higher spring rate and dampening but what about everything else?

 

Alignment angles will also play a huge part in the replacement intervals. I once had my numbers at 4.7° on My Gen1 AllPro Kit, but that made the angles extreme at the pivots and wore out new bushings down to the sleeves in just a few months.

The Total Chaos Bushings works on the AllPro Stuff. And the Inner Sleeves can be purchased at Kartek ..

 

I may need to consider that. The TC bushings work for both upper n lower Control arms on the AP kit? And I assume that’s the sleeve part# for the front bushings? How bout rear bushings?

 

I believe Dirtking may sell appropriately sized Delrin bushings as well. Personally, I won’t ever replace poly with poly again. I may even give delrin a shot in my leafs.

 

So I now have 5.5 inches of shock/bypass shaft showing with these 18x500s. That puts me in the lower half of usable down travel. I haven't taken the truck to the beach (whoops/jumps). Is this going to be an issue for usable wheel travel?

 

I have a friend who cuts bronze/brass for his leafs
But does service them every year