Anything welding

Too poor for a water cooled setup! Lol

 

Nothing like a freshie after one too many bends on the flex head!

Pro tip (from experience) If you order 3 spares to keep on hand, it will make the current torch invincible, rendering the spares a waste of money and space.

Pro tip #2 - move to the southeast and weld in an unconditioned space and you'll sweat enough to be your own coolant line.

 

Hahaha luckily they had it on Amazon and it got delivered the next day. I'll order another to keep on hand for sure though lol. Think this one lasted 3 years so not too bad.

I also tend to stay my ass inside when it's too hot out lol my garage has a insulation and I gotta keep the door closed when welding so it gets wayyyy too hot in there lol

 

My first flex head lasted about 4 months. When I ordered the replacement, I got a few extras, assuming 4 months would be a repeat thing. Now I'm about in line with you. Going on about 3 years with the same torch, and some spares collecting dust.

I also have the same tig lead as you. Absolutely love how light weight and flexible it is!

 

Yeah definitely way lighter and way easier to move around. Noticed it big time when I switched over to the factory torch. Way heavier and a rigid head definitely didn't like it lol. Guess I'm spoiled now

 

Have to remember, only flex the head when it's warmed up from welding

Flexing/bending the head while cold could fuck it up

 

I'm telling you, with these spares in the toolbox it's like the opposite of Murphy's law. I could put the head in the freezer for a day, take it out and tie it in a knot and it wouldn't break.

 

Truf!

I'm in Michigan. Welding in the cold introduces lots of failures of plastic and rubber.

 

I try to keep that in mind but I tend to forget

 

Doing anything in the cold makes everything fail. I had one bend left to make with my tubing bender on a project and it blew out the bottom seal when it was 15 degrees F in the morning. Spent the rest of the day rebuilding the bottle jack and tracking down an o ring on a sunday. I think there is an O ring from a house water filter still in there

 

It's at least 90F in my garage 9 months a year.

 

Retacked the runners, now to grind down all the mig tacks my buddy made.

 

@Pyrotech

Few goodies arrived, not to mention a quick trip to Home Depot





I need to buy a T and maybe 2 more fittings

Got plenty of PVC left though

That and decide how I will run my means of transferring fluid from the reservoir to the bed

If the cap on my tank uses an NPT fitting, I can simply use that to connect to a pump, haven't tested the threads though

 

Following closely for drain and fill ideas. I’ve seen quite a few with the air pressure reservoir underneath to fill but haven’t decided how to go about it all yet.

 

i would also suggest setting up a second shutoff above that inline filter unit. i use those at work in salt spreader pre-wet/anti-ice systems(beet juice, Sodium chloride brine, Calcium chloride), nasty-nasty stuff that'll eat most valves... the filters work great, but if they plug up, there's no way to clean them out halfway through the dump without making a really bad mess.

we specifically use a banjo-brand 3-way valve for the purpose, which can alternate between the brine, or a flush tank filled with windshield washer fluid, or be turned halfway which cuts off all fluid flow.

 

So this is just a mock up, but I've got some stainless steel bolts along with bonded washers that'll attach the flanges to the table like so





This is how it'll look underneath; thinking I'll shorten the straight pieces a bit to bring them up higher

Ignore my filter stand in the back corner; that's maybe +3 years old and was used for something else



The drain will dump into the tank through the lid, but I may just opt for a different solution due to the height of the setup versus the length of the filter



This will be the feed line, that'll utilize the same pipe as the drain for a means of refilling



If this drain is an NPT fitting, it'll be perfect for attaching a line to and running to a transfer pump that'll connect to the refill line

 

@soundman98

I just realized my mock up photo is backwards lol the ball valve is indeed supposed to sit above the filter

It's how I mocked it up while at Home Depot - reason being so I can stop the flow if I need to pull off the filter so ignore the picture

 

But yes good points!

Re-posting this to add that this is something anyone should consider since there are so many formulas used for CNC plasma tables

The Eastwood stuff I use is non-corrosive and won't harm plastics; lots of people have been using it for years with PVC with no ill effects

However, I can't say the same for other fluids especially the DIY concoctions or the cheap stuff on Amazon

 

Meant to go like this



I have a 110v transfer tank (small one) in my cart and wondering if I should just use a soft line (barbed end) to make it easier to run a line

Would be nice to mount said pump on the flat surface of the reservoir

 

No one else runs drains on their setup?