1GR-FE (2014) Engine Replacement

Hi everyone ,

I’ve been working on getting my old 4.0 out of the Taco. I have taken plenty of pictures for those of you who are curious about a certain angle. My model has the trans cooler and secondary air pump to consider.

To start I have a few questions at the moment some of you may be able to help me with:

1. Should I swap over my original engine harness over to the replacement engine going in while it’s out?
   
2. Any tips on disconnecting the o2 sensors? Seems tricky to get a good view + leverage coming over the top.
   
3. Does anyone know the part number for the gasket that connect the rail to the exhaust manifolds (in red) ?

 

Yes
Also check the knock sensor harness under the intake on the replacement engine, rodents love to nest there and chew it up.

Can't really help there but Toyota O2 sensor connectors typically aren't too hard to disconnect.

Looks like 1737650010
This site is a great place to look up part numbers by vin.
https://partsouq.com/

 

Neeeeeeeever use a used engine harness unless you have to. Agree with DM93, remove the intake, inspect the harness and give'r.

I use a small screw driver as leverage for the o2 sensor connector. Rather than prying down on the tab, I pry up on the latching part opposite if that makes any sense.

 

Yea I pretty much never use any of the electronics/sensors/injectors from a used engine unless I have to/it's too difficult to swap them, building in too many possible variables doing so.

 

My intention from the beginning was to swap the harness, just didn’t know to either
a) leave harness in truck and install once engine is in engine bay
b) remove from truck and connect most thing into new engine (while it’s on the engine stand)

going with option b now!

What else would be good to switch over?

 

Update: looked into the knock sensor harness area

my replacement engine was on the engine stand so I flashed a light and noticed some debris but no apparent damage. I will still be removing the intake since I have to switch over my original harness

 

thanks for the site!

 

I typically go with A if the harness is difficult or impossible to remove from the vehicle and B if the harness is relatively easy to remove with the engine.

I did a swap on an 09 PreRunner a few years ago, it was a really easy swap and I left the harness in the truck on that one.

Did a 2GR on an Avalon last year and I took the harness out with it.

I typically switch over pretty much everything with an electrical connector if it isn't damaged and was known to be good. The knock sensors I wouldn't worry about swapping, they are very difficult to access without removing the coolant bypass pipe which requires cutting the bracket or removing a cylinder head and they rarely fail. As long as the sub-harness is good you should be fine.

 

Thanks again ! Do you by any chance know of any points on the engine that would be good for when I get the hoist to pull it out? Not sure what would be up to withstand it’s weight

 

I can't remember what holes I used to pick up the taco engine but I made brackets to fit the OE lift points on the 2GR. Easy to make hangers that fit at the factory spots if you have some flat iron, a saw/torch and a drill.
Otherwise the OE hangers are about $35-40 apiece.

 

100%, this goes with anything used you’re installing. A one model year difference could mean a big change.
I recently put a 2010 1.6L used engine into a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. Even though they said it was identical I swapped everything, manifolds, sensors, harness etc. I also ordered a new timing kit and got one for the 2010 engine. Good thing I did because the water pump was different from the 2007 motor.

 

There is a cast loop in each head. They are on opposing corners from each other. Those are good spots. On the same plane as those, are two tapped holes next to each other. That is the OEM location for installing hoisting points.

 

thanks Torspd! You’ve been super helpful in this. I noticed the two lined up next to each other from the diagram for the oem engine hangers. Wasn’t sure until this picture that I can now see the other ones on the top lip

 

Alright this is a tad bit embarrassing. Happened last week but I wanted to get some opinions. I had watched a few videos on removing the radiator and despite the warnings to not damage the radiator, I hastily removed the fan and pressed it against the radiator when I pulled it off.

I’m not familiar with assessing damage, is this radiator still ok to use? I was planning on using two small flatheads to carefully reform the fins.

 

That radiator is fine

 

As long as the tubes didn't get punctured you should be fine.

 

IMO, those are minor issues. I'm sure the areas combined that are marked prob represent less than 1% of the total surface are of the radiator. I would leave them alone. How old and how many miles on the unit? If you can't resist, use something made out of wood, like a popsicle stick shaved or sanded down to fit with a pointed end to fit. If it's over a 150k with unknown maintenance history, and at 10 years out currently, it might be prudent to replace it.

 

^^^This^^^
Get the OEM factory hangers. Don't forget to get the correct bolts for them.

 

Does anyone know the thread / pitch for those bolts ? The ones near the cylinder heads that the factory hangers fasten onto?