(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

I’ll be surprised if it makes much difference, but worth a try.

 

Trucks actually driving decent currently. It's amazing what both exhaust valves working on the cylinder will do lol.

 

I would start with 10-30 and gradually move my way up. I don't think it will make much difference though

 

Oil is what creates the seal on the piston rings no? Wouldn't it help deal with it not thinning as bad as 0w-20?

 

Ive squirted oil in a cold engine cylinder to seal the rings better but thats not standard practice on a tightly built engine. (in my opinion)

 

Engine is throwing no codes. I also put in the thicker oil and removed the engine cap and it was actually sucking in slightly instead of building pressure. No codes but sluggish, slightly rough idle, poor acceleration and when hitting about 5k rpms it takes off like a rocket. When accelerating there's also random misfires but nothing like it was. Just a few every now and again just enough to feel the truck become sluggish. The spark plugs are dark black. Probably from being fouled from the misfires from the rocker arm and from the massive vacuum leak. I ordered replacement spark plugs just to see if the truck will drive again.

Still on the look out for an engine.

 

Gotta do something about that tune

 

I wish there was someone local. OTT refused to help since yotawerx was original tuner.

 

That's not accurate.

 

If you were an early tester then you were an early ginnie pig. There is a reason why most companies don't mess around with forced induction. It takes skill and experience to properly dial in a truck. You cant possibly expect anyone to touch your truck with everything you have going on. Its a liability issue and no one wants to risk their reputation on so many unknowns.

 

Returning back to stock would be a nice next step OP (as noted by the folks at OTT). Would take away the biggest variability (FI tune/SC) and let you know if you do need a new engine. It is a time suck I know, but that’s why we all love our tacos.

 

It is accurate. If I wish to pay an OTT tuner to look at the mapping of the truck and I'm being told "you were a guinea pig and we don't want liability" then yes that is accurate as OTT will not tune my truck. Besides everyone signs liability clauses, I would never think about trying to go after yotawerx because I knew what I was signing up for and I did sign a clause.

I get what you guys are saying not bashing OTT at all here. Just wish I had a local professional tuner to help and see my mapping numbers.

No one wants to pay a shop the amount of money it takes to diagnose and throw parts at a custom truck. I for one am mechanically inclined to disect and repair my truck which I have done so by putting the rocker that wasn't installed back in place. Misfires are gone and the truck feels like it's lagging and I'm not sure why as no codes are currently being shown.

What I can not do like you posted in your message to me "There is a reason why most companies don't mess around withforced induction. It takes skill and experience to properly dial in a truck."

I do not have this experience and I am trying to trust OTT to do it since I lack these skills. This is extremely custom tuning and there's only a select few that do this and for me OTT is the only one local enough for me to drive to.

When is the truck good enough to be tuned by you guys? When I say I swapped the motor? When I say there's no codes? When I go back to stock and reinstall everything back? It shouldn't be when I say I've done something. I would think it should be when a tuner gets his eyes on the mapping and states it can't be tuned because there's an underlying issue because the changes he is making are not fixing it.

20% of the votes up top of the thread think it's a tune issue. I have to continue to knock off possibilities. Hooking up a PC to an ECM is much easier then going back to stock.

Just my 2 cents. It's your company you have the right to refuse anyone.

 

Just an update, did a leak down test and cylinder 6 is leaking about 60psi out of 90psi into the oil pan. Definitely must be a shot piston ring.

Finally pulled it into the garage today and stripped almost everything off the motor. Have to remove the exhaust manifolds, buy a million extensions to get the bell housing bolts removed and then will attempt to pull it.

Next I'll be throwing it onto my engine stand and checking out cylinder 6, if it is a piston ring should I just replace the piston rings/get new pistons in and call it a day? Everything else seems fine. I fired it up and drove it into the garage with no issues. Seems like the issue starts when it reaches temp.

 

Get a new to you engine if the piston is shot. These are essentially disposable engines. Short of doing sleeves and built motor, your best bet is to get a used long block.

 

This thread started 9 months ago…I’m shocked this truck didn’t get a used engine like 8.5 months ago. It’s a lot of work to tear down to that point, I’d just get another engine.

 

Well, I had my jeep transfercase blow up and my corvette motor go out as well (due to a dealership). I have not had good luck at all and have pushed this as long as I could. Now the engine is coming out.

 

So busy with fun projects! Well at least fun when all sorted.

 

Looks like I can get a brand new Toyota short block for 3k. I'll probably go that route and swap my heads over.

 

"It'll never run again."

 

This is exactly why I would never buy a used Tacoma.