Garmin PowerSwitch and Hybrid

Gents,
I got my TrailHunter and was wonder if anyone wired Garmin PowerSwitch to Hybrid yet? the battery under the seat is 380LN3-MF and its 70Ah Lead Acid, but the Garmin documentation says to install 125Amp Fuse. I dont think my setup will pull that much power. Anyway as i see there is 2 potential options:
1. Possibly upgrade 12V AUX battery to 100Ah and run the power cable from that battery to engine bay and wire up garmin powerswitch (i think it would be easier to connect accessories there)
2. Dont think this option is safe tbh. There is 12V cable that goes to fuse box, so im thinking wire up 125Amp fuse to that cable and then wire up garmin powerswitch.

As right now i got prisu roof rack coming with rigid 40" led (14.8Amp) planning to wire it to AUX1 (15Amp) should be fine, but i will test and monitor. The AUX2 (10Amp) will have 4-6 Side LED's from baja designs i think S2 and AUX3 (5 Amp) will be 4x rock lights also baja designs.

There is AUX4, but after pull switch panel i didnt see any extra connectors (i havent looked that hard though), but there is a "D" connector under the bed, which is rated for 20Amp (Manual https://assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/om-s/OM04042U/pdf/OM04042U.pdf). I also looked for a fuse for AUX4 but i didnt find anything. Anyway was thinking on adding Garmin PowerSwitch. My first option was to go with Redarc setup, but my calculations got me to $8000.

 

is that switch redundant to the aux switches already on your trail hunter?

 

its not, ill be using all 3 AUX switches, but i need more and garmin provides Bluetooth as well.

So those 3 AUX are quick and easy to turn on LED Bar, side and rock lights. Where Garmin PowerSwitch will provide 6 more accessories that i can control from my phone

 

I'd leave it alone...

 

i figured as much, wanted to double check! Thank you for confirming.

 

nice! do you have a full pdf for this? i tried to google but i couldnt find anything

 

just use a test light dude. any lug that is hot all the time that is not being used for anything else will work fine. how bout the fuse block on the drivers side under the hood anything open in there?

 

Since you're installing a six circuit bus you should have it wired directly to the battery. That's the correct answer, using an existing connection in the engine bay is a bit half-assed. What is the anticipated load that you will be powering with the Garmin? If you pull power from something in the engine bay you'll need to make sure it is rated for more than that plus whatever it is supposed to be powering from the factory.

There's no need to replace the battery with a 100AH unless you want more capacity - the AH rating of the battery and the amp rating of the fuse Garmin wants are unrelated. You might not need to fuse it at 125 amps, that is just the maximum current that Garmin rates the PowerSwitch for so it must be protected against a higher draw by that fuse.

 

The other side is not really doable, because all the wires are under the fuse box and not feeling it

 

I agree with half assed. The plan is to add reverse lights and I’m drawing a blank on other stuff… I got EcoFlow battery so my fridge will be plugged in there. So don’t need a fridge wire.

thank you everyone for answers! I think I’ll mount garmin on a drivers side since there is more room there and route positive wire to the battery, with lower fuse cause I can replace it later. The wire thickness I’ll check what can handle ~130A so I don’t have to change the wire later.

 

why 130amp fuse??!??! you only have 6 switches... thats 21 amps per switch! how many reverse lights and other lights draw that? what other thing can you imagine using that is 12 volt that uses that much current?
think about it the trucks entire 12 volt system prolly uses less than 130 amps.. whats the output of the alternator on these 200 amps?

 

Modified OEM pigtail to Added Reverse Lamps

 

You are right, i dont really need to. Perhaps 90-100A rated cable and right fuse to protect the cable (15A per switch is decent). i was planning to get 6 Baja designs S2 which came over just 10amps so i have to make it 4 led's to keep it under 10A to wire it for AUX2. There is no alternator from what i could find online since its hybrid. Heck maybe instead of using AUX2 for 6x Baja S2's ill use that garmin

 

Hey just to follow up on this wiring diagram you uploaded; does this mean it's safe to connect to either 1E or 1F since it's directly connected to the battery based off the image with the lavender wire?

 

i wont be doing that and will run set of wires from battery to under the hood. Also getting Dynamic Offroad D-Switch. The DC/DC converter is 120A or 150A (there was various information available and i did not care much), so adding more shit to it is not ideal unless you adding small amount of lights which will not increase amperage by much. Anyway i purchased DC amp meter and measured various configuration at the DC/DC converter thickest wire:
Idle 60a
Steering heat 67a
Heat one seat 70a
Heat one seat low 66a
Ac full 87a
Heat full seats steering 87a
Fan seat full 65a
Lights beam fog yellon 70a
High beam and led bar stock 75a
My led high beam stock light bar 90a

so far i used BD rock lights on aux3 and ridgit 40" led bar on aux1, so to me its dumb to add extra shit to DC/DC converter. Toyota gave you 3 Aux and if you used them up then safest thing to do if you need more shit is to run new cables to garmin, d-switch or redarc or w/e you will run. your DC/DC converter is like alternator, if you burned it up from over use im sure its pricier than alternator