Belt Tensioner Replacement - DIY or Take It In?

Has anyone here replaced their belt tensioner? Did you tackle it yourself, and how was the process? Or did you end up taking it somewhere? If so, how much did it cost you? Also, curious whether you went the OEM parts route or decided to go aftermarket.

Mine is making a noise like a creaky old ship, and it’s driving me nuts. About a year ago, I took off the skid plate, blew everything out with a compressor, and sprayed some WD-40 in and around the belt tensioner. That quieted things down for about 3 months, but the noise slowly came back. Now I'm thinking it might be time for a replacement.

Any advice or experience would be appreciated!

 

I haven't replaced the tensioner on my Tacoma, but I've done the job on many other vehicles.

I imagine it is as simple as removing the belt (which is very easy to do by releasing the tension from the tensioner by rotating it and fixing it in place with a screwdriver through the hole on the tensioner), unbolting the old tensioner, reinstalling the new one, then reinstalling the belt.

A key step is to make sure the belt is routed properly, but you can find diagrams online for our engine (probably here on TW too) that make it a cinch.

Someone who has replaced the tensioner on our trucks may be able to provide additional details, but it should be pretty straightforward.

 

What he said, if you’re only replacing the pulley. If you’re actually replacing the bracket with the spring in it, you will have to remove the battery, alternator, and at least dismount the A/C compressor. And I am not sure you could move it out of the way enough with the hoses (not discharged) still attached to the compressor. If just the pulley, remember the bolt is right hand threads. So counterclockwise to loosen.

 

I had a banshee chorus going all last year. I replaced all 5 of the idler pulleys in August. The Tensioner was still good, and per threads on here I trust that it seldom goes-but the pulley bearings do. Easy job. Took about an hour. Everything is accessible from below when the skid is removed. All but one are right hand threaded. I had to buy the tensioner to get the idler pulley-Toyota does not sell it separate. Expensive but quiet now. There are several threads about how to do this (that I no longer have saved-sorry) - and changing just the bearings etc.

 

Do a quick search and there is a thread to swapping the bearings using new bearings.
Also, check eBay for parts. I got all three idler pulleys for $55 vs 80 for one at the dealer. Checked it out and it was Japanese KOYO bearings and fit perfect.

 

I am thinking it's the whole tensioner assembly, not just the bearing. When I crank it to release the belt tension, it makes that same creaky sound—feels like it's coming from the arm and spring. My truck eats a lot of dust from heavy fire road driving, so that’s probably not helping. Anyone else replace just the bearing, only to realize it was the whole assembly that needed swapping? I don’t see many posts about this, so either it's not a common issue, or everyone just lives with the old truck creaks.

 

You have to remove the ac compressor, mounting bracket, and alternator to get to the tensioner.
You can leave the lines hooked up to the compressor. Just swing it out of the way.
You will also need to remove the front left wheel and fender liner.
That’s the easiest way to get to the bolts.

It’s not “bad”. But it’s not easy either.
Time…….it is time consuming.

 

Same for removal of belt...

 

In the tensioner picture in post #9, the long bolt at the top of the bracket is 90105-10527. The repair manual recommends replacing it when replacing the bracket 16620-31013. The crankshaft position sensor is mounted in that “hollow” in the bracket, so be careful with that connector.

 

Strange?
It doesn’t appear to be a TTY bolt.
Maybe it is a through bolt into the coolant jacket?
Does it have some pre-applied thread sealant on it?

 

Yep, I was wrong. Three plus the tensioner...

 

All I can say is without checking the tensioner to confirm that it is bad which several Toyota master mechanics I know (two...) say doesn't happen very often, this doesn't have to be this hard.

 

I'd lubricate the tensioner mechanism and replace the tensioner pulley bearing with a quality replacement bearing. It cost a fraction of the entire tensioner and is about 50X easier to swap out. Most do not need the entire tensioner replaced, just the bearing. If you notice the tensioner stays almost still while running since there isn't much change going on, I doubt that's the squeaking you're hearing but if it is I'd try the simple repair before the difficult and expensive one.

$59 5203-2NSL Nachi Double Row Angular Contact Bearing 17x40x17.5 Sealed

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DWDJE?ie=UTF8

 

From what you describe, it is the tensioner.

You can replace just the pulley if you want. If so, the bolt is reverse thread.

Again, if the tensioner is creaking when you move it. It is probably the tensioner.

 

What's inside the tensioner pivot? I am assuming some sort of bushing? Can't imagine it being a bearing. If you want to buy more time, could try hitting it with an actual lubricant; WD40 is good for what it's good for, but a long lasting lubricant it is not.

 

What did you end torquing the bolt to?

 

Happened to me. Was a PITA to replace

 

I didn't torque it with a torque wrench. Just tightened it up by hand.