Long Travel BS Thread

As someone who went through LT, SAS, bouncer and ended up back to building a streetable long travel 4Runner- be honest with what you need and want. I loved the capability of the sasd taco and bouncer, but hated how purpose built it had become (trailered) I am much looking forward to having a rig I can take the family out in and if I want to beat on it then I have the option of trailering it. I don’t have to hit the hardest shit in everything I have. I ain’t scared to ride bitch a solid streetable three link SAS on yota axles or pre 05 super duties, Johnny joints, etc could have been a good option for the 4Runner, too I think. Just not ready for another lol

 

They made it. Now letting them test out their future home.

 

You are gonna' pull so much tail at the mall !

 

So that's the hard part!

Honestly I don't need any of this - a Rav4 would give me the space and human capacity I need for my family.

This is a toy, and I'm still trying to figure out what I want... which is largely why I follow this thread and ask so many questions. There is a ton of knowledge and experience in here and more money has changed hands than I could imagine.

1) Truck needs to be streetable but planning to buy a 3/4 ton truck to daily drive and for a tow rig in the next ~2 years.
2) I have a 2014 Tacoma that's paid off and has been good to me. A '85 T4R would be neat, as would a 80 series LC. Haven't ruled those out as platforms but building on the Tacoma means I don't have to sell it/buy something with unknown history/etc. I also know I'm guaranteed to "lose" money by selling the Taco. (And my wife has decreed that HVAC is required for her to ride in the truck.)
3) Y'all have convinced me a cage is necessary and will happen once I get a new DD ride - too loud inside for a family vehicle.

SAS vs different LT - still undecided. Running the Depo +2 kit for now and tbh it works pretty well.
Texas is trails and rocks, we don't have the open areas like CA/NV/UT/etc for spirited driving.

I want to do a flatbed/bob/similar in the rear too. I like the SET style utility overland/etc beds and I know I can get a short one but they're $$$+.

 

Tell me you don’t know what you’re talking about without telling me that you don’t know what you’re talking about.

 

LOL...this was just today for 2 shocks.....

 

On what end? I dont nor have I ever built anything utilizing junkyard parts, but if that’s what others want to do, great. And can say a solid FULL build is in fact going to cost in that ballpark.

Will junk yard builds put in work? Sure will. But they certainly won’t hold a candle to a proper full build in reliability, or performance.

It’s kinda like saying the depot long travel kits work.

 

Aren’t all one-ton builds a junkyard build by definition unless you’re buying a crate axle from Dana?

You really should be listening more and posting less when it comes to SA stuff. My Spidertrax front 609 build is going to run about $5500 to $6k tops, complete with a HI-9 and minimal junkyard parts to complete the outers with 05+ SD60 stuff.

 

99% of one ton builds around here start with junk yard super duties or 14 bolts. Even the Busted Knuckle builds. The 1% others are top level competitive bouncers or maybe jeep people who have more money than sense.

 

Same here, helped with several under jeeps. But the one thing I commonly see with them is they turn into trailer queens. I just can’t see the fun in it. So I completely glaze over the thought of ever doing it. As a business now, I wouldn’t even consider it. Because it would always become my problem.

 

The thought of cleaning another SD front axle makes me want to run into traffic.

 

Nice hot day so every fuggin bit of it is stuck to you as well. Nope…

 

Easiest, quickest, maybe cheapest would probably be a Jeep lol but if you’re a glutton for punishment like me, it’s fun to build out a Toyota. I wouldn’t do tons on anything on the street. Just not going to be fun for more than half an hour at a time. Most fun I had with the tacoma was LT front and Archive rear with 35’s. Wouldn’t hesitate to drive it anywhere. Anything after that was diminishing returns. Dedicated trailered rig for off-road paired with that wouldn’t be too bad.

 

You can make tons fun and compliant to drive on the street. But that’s precisely when “affordable” exits the window.

 

Interesting

 

Why do those welds look so rough even in that potato picture

 

Can someone smarter than me explain why the UCAs are “lower”? Is it just because it’s a 10” coilover and the UCAs are comparatively lower, or are they shifted down? Is there an advantage, because I would have thought more separation between UCA and LCA is appealing. Also is there like, no anti-dive on that?

@SoonToBeOn39s nice name change lmao

 

Thank you haha, it's been a long time in the making

 

I mean it's trail gear. By the time it's an end game product that you can purchase you'll be lucky if it even fits after a couple hours of you reworking it.

 

Not really sure why they are lower....other than its a geometry thing. But my LSK kit i'm gettin ready to install the UCA will sit just below the top of the frame.