Closed - Internal Stiffeners

That's a shit ton of bolts

Definitely a great deal of commitment though, that DXF file came to good use posted in the other thread.

 

I don’t know. I just thought it was great to see that someone went to even more work to stiffen the bed. Also how similar, obv way beefier.

 

Only way it'll get stiffer is if you do away with the bed and make a flatbed or rear cage.

 

I saw that the other day, just skimmed the pics, didn’t realize I was looking at fiberglass fenders with a gfc camper sitting on top. Mostly im jealous of that drivers side bed box.

 

I’m adding mine after this stiffy stuff. I had it on my 2018 and am putting it back on this 2022.

EDIT: I’ve said it elsewhere, but it’s the reason I bought the 2018 in October of 2018… the 19s were out and all they did was remove shit… I wanted my storage box, etc.

 

lol. At first I thought your were talking about fiberglass fenders.

 

LOL, yea… my brain be everywhere. Let this help you:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...side-bed-storage-cubby-on-2019-models.818770/

Only variant I suggest is use M6 plusnuts and factory bolts and it will be no different than the plug cubby (you probably saw how it was done). You could use rivnuts, but I agree with him that plusnuts have a better grip (not like the cubby is overly stressed, unless you mount a viair in there). Definitely get Cubby Caps to keep yer shit dry and clean.

 

Shit, they don't mess around.

They paid the extra shipping to get this thing out to me quick.

Here's the old one.



And the new one, although I did not expect to receive a new rear mount as well!



Going to have to jog my setup and start taking apart a few other things to remove mine.



In anticipation of parts arriving I went ahead and finished up a few things like gluing up the drain and refill end.

For clearance reasons, I'm thinking of gluing it angled as shown.



I enlarged the holes in the water bed to utilize larger hardware, as well as getting some bonded washers to make sure everything is water tight.



As well as some wire mesh to act as my initial "filter" before it goes down the drain.



And lastly, I'll be using a barb at the drain on my reservoir to feed my table from; this end will use vinyl tubing to attach to a transfer pump, and the transfer pump will output up the refill end of the drain.



There's just the matter of incorporating my stainless steel mesh. I could "slot" it to barely get clamped by the bolts. I just didn't want water seeping out.

I could also just go between the gasket and the flange, or at least the gasket and the table bottom, but that might create a larger gap than the above bolt situation.

In short, I don't want to glue anything directly onto the table but also don't want to have any leaks. I may just have to go out and buy some caulk.

 

And my fucking luck, the part holding the spring for initial height sensing is broken on the new assembly

 

Old Z axis mount next to the new one.



Installed, trammed, and ready to accept the Z axis.



And the moment my heart sank after finding this piece of plastic on the foam inserts.



The little notch on the right is the spot where the spring sits. It's positioned between these two bearings and it is used for providing tension on the IHS switch when the torch drops down to push against the work piece and open the circuit.



So, I shot an email out asking what I should do. I can cannibalize the new one to take out most of the parts and put it on my old one (specifically the motor, lead screw, and bottom bearing) or if they just want me to send it back.

We'll see.

Was really hoping to have been cutting this weekend.

 

Here's the idea, hoping it remains water proof.

I'll test this one side tomorrow.

 

You should look into e6000. I know you said you didn't want to glue anything to the table, but the nice thing about e6000 is if you want to remove it, grab it with pliers and rip it off. It comes off 100% clean. It cures into a pliable rubber type material. stretchy, bendy, and hold's very very well. For the screen I'd honestly just put a circle of e6000 around the hole, and press the metal screen down onto it, pushing it through the mesh.

 

My ADHD got the best of me so I thought, let me fill it up as high as I can (without it overflowing to the right side) and leave it overnight.

So far, the pipe below is full and there are no leaks anywhere around the flange.

 

Oh man I'll have to save that for my next table, whether it's a different water table on this one or an altogether different CNC table.

Thanks for the info.

 

Considered an overflow? Like a pool skimmer or endless pool edge?

 

Who what where

 

I will say, water held all night.



There was a droplet of water built up underneath but it was where the elbow and unglued PVC mated together. It isn't glued because I still need to finish up the right side of the drain.

The entire rest of the flange however was bone dry.

 

Too much work

But if it works for overlow purposes only, the table can't overflow fortunately.

 

What I mean is, the tank holds 15 gallons but has room to maybe accept 17-18 gallons

The table itself holds a maximum of 17 gallons which reminds me, I may as well buy another gallon of water additive.

Also just got done draining the table. Stupid quick and easy so I'm stoked about that.