Carrier Bearing/ Drive Shaft

The short story is that I have been through 2 carrier bearings in less than 30k miles in my 2010 Dbl cab trd sport 4wd. The first one was changed because of replacing u-joints, and I felt like it was a good idea since the u-joints were bad.

The mechanic got my last carrier bearing under warranty since the last one went out so fast, but said if this one goes, then it must be a bent drive shaft. Well, this one is getting worn, and I can move the drive shaft around inside the carrier bearing. It's not vibrating much, but I hear it clunk on acceleration, and it looks like it's getting worn.

My questions are

Could it be anything other than a bad drive shaft that destroys the carrier bearing?
Would re-installing the drive shaft and or the carrier bearing incorrectly cause this?
Any recommendations on where to get a new drive shaft?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

What brand bearing?
A driveshaft not put together properly can cause balance issues. Which can lead to premature carrier failure.
That is why you have to mark the driveshaft when you disassemble it. ALL the piece have to go back in the SAME way.

I'd suggest taking it to a driveline shop and letting them check the driveshaft.
They can check the joints, the carrier, and the shaft for balance.

 

I have a similar situation, I have been thru two aftermarket ones and now have an OEM toyota one I have not installed yet. Hope it lasts longer.
Many folks on here have had bad luck with the aftermarket ones.
When I did my ujoints and bearing/s, I was careful to mark all the yokes so they went back in the same orientation. Not everyone does this, so that could be an instance of installer error.
There are folks on here that have custom driveshafts, I'm sure someone will chime in on the subject.
You may want to check with a local driveline shop, they can check for a bent shaft and rebalance if needed, likely for less money than a new driveshaft.

Welcome to TW!

 

Unfortunately, I did not take it apart; a mechanic did, so I have no way of telling if he put it back on right or wrong. Other than trying it another way, is there any way of telling how it goes back on properly?

According to the only driveline shop I have with 150 miles, he can only see if it's balanced. He can't do anything to rebalance it or fix it. It could be a start; at least I would know if it's the drive shaft, but it's also very time-consuming. Kind of in a bind at work for the next 3 months

 

Were you blowing out carrier bearings?

 

Not the actual bearing but the rubber donut that holds it. I did ujoints about 60k ago and put an aftermarket carrier bearing on, the rubber lasted about 30k. Dorman brand I think.
Then bought a spicer one and put it on, now its rubber is shot. Figured I'd go OEM the third time, so I spent the money for one from the dealer and havent put it on yet.
The truck is driveable with the donut shot, just a minor vibration that is not there when the rubber is good.

 

So much here on TW with 2 piece issues, espeecially Dorman and other aftermarket bearings (probably all are just relabled china junk)

Isn't there a one piece replacement shaft out there? If so is there any legitimate reasons why not going to a one piece? I mean there have got to be longer single 4x4 shaft factoty examples out there than a Toyota.

 

Less is more right? One less thing to fail and or fix is better than more things...

 

Keep in mind that rubber does 'break in' over time. Some movement is fine. Kind of a hard thing to define IMO

Are the u-joints adequately greased? Tires balanced?

Lots of possible sources of vibrations

 

I’ve got a one piece Tom woods driveline. They stopped selling them I believe. Tuning them for proper piñon angle is a pain. First I went with 3* shims then 6. Yesterday I installed 5* shims and she seems to be running smoothly. For some reason our trucks are very driveline sensitive. Used to have an 84 long bed. Put a one piece on her with no problems. I would think a decent driveline shop could build a one piece just be prepared for some tuning

 

Not mine, but good price seeing how Tom Woods doesn't make them for Tacomas anymore

 

That is a great price. Obviously, I can crawl under the truck and measure but anyone know if the length is right for a 4wd 2010 dbl cab tacoma?

 

Is it a longbed?

Access cab/short beds should be the same lengths for a 3" lift.

 

Do you have a lift? Or angled axle shims?

If the rear axle is angled, creating a different angle where the driveshaft meets the rear axle compared to where it meets the transfer case/transmission, that can cause vibration that could potentially wear out the rubber more quickly.

 

No lift, i have a dbl cab but short bed.

 

Took it to a driveline shop. They said it was warped. I had them straighten it with new u -joints and carrier bearing. Seems to be running okay.. I am probably looking too close but we will see if it's fixed. About to take a 1000 mile round trip to the mountains.

Fingers crossed..