How to: Deleting ADD system

I may be following suit as i hate the electronic crap, but like you i believe the add is a bigger issue than the transfer case. Looking forward to the update

 

I’m in the middle of doing this mod along with 4.88’s and a twin stick FJ transfer case. Since I don’t have a shop press in the garage, I opted to order a new bearing for the stub shaft. Sat the shaft in dry ice for about 30 minutes, took a heat gun to the inner race of the bearing for about 45 seconds and it slid right on, no press necessary.

thanks to all the info already in this thread, it’s been pretty smooth sailing. Thanks to all you guys before me who paved the way to make this easy.

 

Happen to know the thread pitch of the 2 bolts that hold the FJ tube to the arm?

 

Off the top of my head I don’t. I know the bolts that hold the ADD tube to the clam shell are

$13 m12x1.25 mm self-locking nylon insert hex lock nuts, pack of 6

m12x1.25 and the bolts that hold the mounting arm to the and tube are a thicker bolt. I think they’re m14x1.25 based on looking at them. But can’t confirm. Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

Thanks for the info.
One of my holes are stripped - typical from ebay I guess. Looking to replace one.

 

I was just in my garage. Ran a tap
Through my old tube with the ADD since it’s sitting on my bench still. I was a little off by eyeballing, those bolts that hold the tube to the arm that mounts to the frame are m14x1.5

 

Well this is a bummer. The new driveshaft vibrates severely. It fit fine and all, but for some reason vibes are terrible. I didn’t grease the joints beforehand, but I don’t think I needed to?



No way this is what the 4R and FJ deal with, something is up for sure. Gonna try greasing as a Hail Mary, otherwise this thing will be removed tonight.

 

You can get it rebalanced

 

I think I need to helicoil mine

 

It’s a brand new factory FJ shaft from Toyota. Shouldn’t need anything.

the shops near me won’t balance much over about 1200-1500 rpm. My stock shaft doesn’t show vibes until about 4500 rpm, so I’m skeptical that going to a shop will do anything for me. That’s why I was hopeful an FJ or 4Runner shaft would be a bolt in vibe free solution.

 

Well, I dunno what the deal was but I put my stock shaft back in. There is still the expected very light buzz starting around 80 but I’m going to keep an eye on it. It’s still very minor and I don’t really want to swap the ADD back in. Maybe someday I go back in gearing to some degree if I can find a deal, but I doubt it. This is minor enough for me to leave it for now.

Locking hubs would be nice for times like these for sure.

 

Does anyone remember when they put this together if there was any side to side play? Im bought a used tube, unknown miles, and it has a small amount of play.

Im just not sure if thats normal and i should install it, or go the poor man's route and slide the collar over?

 

I kind of like the poor man route, and this way equally. I think I might just buy a new tube so I dont have to helicoil the threads. Im not having any luck with the helicoil kits that Im getting from Amazon.

A new tube is $150. Worth it in my opinion.

 

Was able to helicoil the threads. But also ended up buying the new tube.

If anyone wants to save some $, im selling the helicoiled tube. Fresh paint on it too. Cleaned it up as if I were going to use it.
$110 shipped to lower 48

 

Just came across this site, and has an awesome tool. I might get one. Then again, a 2" PVC piece works too. @6 gearT444E

https://www.cruiserpatch.com/produc...iver-special-service-tool-09550-00032-replica

 

That’s pretty sweet. Gonna bookmark it. Out of stock for now. I don’t need it but I love tools like that that make life easy.

 

That's pretty slick. I just scored a new front 4.30 diff off of LKQ with what I'm told had 4 miles on it. They must have boggered up the ADD side seal on removal as it didn't come with it and I'll need to install a new one. This tool would be pretty nice to have but not sure I can justify $70 for a limited use tool, plus it's out of stock. Without having to search and hunt, does anyone know the factory spec for seal depth on these diffs?

Here's my new 4.30. Still not sure if I'm going to remove the ADD or not.

 

Must have been out of a manual. Nice

 

Yeah, off a 2023 3rd gen MT.

Was on the hunt for a cheaper way to re-gear and I'm hoping 4.30 will be the Goldilocks for me. I figure I saved $400-$500 ACTUAL dollars over a re-gear going this route.

I say ACTUAL like that because I just got quoted $4000 for a F/R re-gear from a local "Overland" shop. I know prices have gone up but didn't realize Overland dollars were now worth 2 to 3 ACTUAL dollars. Lol.

 

0.189”-0.2284”

Not a fun install, for me at least. Kept going crooked and for me to straighten it out, ended up too deep.

With 4.30s, twin stick, and a low range eco crawler, I see 0 reason why you should keep the ADD.