What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Yep. My 2013 has 257k and no problems. Glad for the warranty and glad the dealership was honest. Drove jeeps for years and my last, 2009 rubicon was a turd on wheels. Dealership jerked me off till warranty was up and then stuck it to me. Glad I’m not in that situation again.

 

Same here, oops, wrong truck! I mounted the Tacoma’s snow tires on the winter steelies, headed to DT for a balancing tomorrow!

 

Hmmmmmm? I have a thought as to why my mpg is terrible!! I’ve said it before, maybe my rear gear backlash is set to tight causing extra drag? It was a joke but who knows? I get a little clank when I hit the brake in reverse and then again moving forward for the first application? Like the shoes/ pads are seating or a bit loose. I’m almost at 30k on a 2023. I also have a transfer case drip at the rear output, got to have to looked at as well.

 

The main one was the lane change from 3 to 7 blinks, and looking to see what all it had available to do..

But I also am going to see if it will do anything with my daughters car and maybe a few other vehicles out there... Neighbor has a 2024 Taco 4x4 (don't know the trim level), might get with him and check it out...

 

Finished building my rear seat delete. There is a rubber mat that sits on top, not pictured.

 

Thanks! Took multiple iterations (kept breaking the holder).I'm likely going to change the mounting 'box' and add through holes for an acrylic sheet protector.

A switch pro (on a high amp switch) is able to run the starlink mini, using one of the starlink waterproof cables. I'm currently using the 15m cable (cut to length), unsure if the 30m and 15m cable have different gauge wire. Avg draw is less than 40w

 

Nicely done!

So, it’s looks like your only hard attachment points are the two bolts in the rear center, is that correct?

 

Which switch mount/bezel is that?

 

Thank you!
You are correct. The seatbelt bolt locations are the only attachment. The plywood is double thick in this area, 1.5" total.

 

@Atlantaco78, nice job. Any particular reason some of the tee nuts are counterbored deeply? Just asking to capitalize on your hard work and thoughts if I go this plywood route.

 

I counter bored all but 2 of them. I could have done them all but saw no reason for the 2 in the front center. I did it on the sides to prevent sharp points when reaching under the platform. The others were to prevent low spots where it could possibly make contact with the carpet or plastic storage tray.
The bolts are all 1/4-20x1-1/4" for counter bored holes. The other 2 are 1/4-20x1-1/2".
There are 6 bolts in total that hold the vertical front board on, all 1/4-20x1-1/2". These thread into threaded inserts (rivets) in the aluminum angles.
It all seems sturdy.
Thank you!

 

Do not go with cheap pine plywood, my opinion. Do not know what Atlantaco used. Birch ply or "whitewoood" ... maybe maple ply. Common pine or OSB (oriented-strand-board) has too rough a surface to completely smooth out.

 

Got a slick northern light pic from VA (with the road tires and ugly wheels, MPG is killing me right now)

 

Once I wrapped my head around the engine design the way it acts makes sense and I realized it has plenty of power. With light throttle application it is tuned for fuel economy and feels weak but when you gun it literally everything changes; it ditches the atkinson cycle, switches to direct injection and downshifts to put the engine into the power band. I think most people just never really put their foot down. That said I did test drive an older 3rd gen that felt much more lethargic and my guess is that it hadnt received the ecu update designed to address some of the lack of power issues so maybe some older 3rd gens really dont have as much get up and go as my 2022.

 

where did you place the air chuck/nipple? Looks like an extension heading downwards…..

 

Hopefully your issue isn’t the same as mine. The service manager said that they used a stethoscope on the diff when it was lifted which leads me to believe the actually have seen this before. Your truck and mine were probably the last batch of tacos before the factory was retooled for the 4th gen, so I wonder if they were just throwing parts at them to get them out the door. I don’t really know how it works but that scenario wouldn’t surprise me. If you have a reputable dealer near you I’d say take it in and mention noise coming from the rear. From what you’re describing it’s sounds like the same issue I had.

 

Those powder coated or rattle canned?

 

FWIW - Regarding your thoughts of the noise being “shoes/pads are seating or a bit loose”: the front disc pads/calipers/brake assy makes a noise when I move mine (’18 TRD Sport with 66K miles) after being parked. Several notices to the dealer during the warranty period each resulted in their diagnosis as “pads releasing”. I replaced the pads and pins about 15K miles ago and no change to that noise. Stupid design but it’s been harmless so far - other than being offensive to my ears and better judgement. (I have a buddy with a 2nd Gen and he has the same noise.)

 

It’s 2 part polyurethane Imron industrial aviation paint. Toughest paint you can buy, before power coating was a thing. Short answer - Rattle can!

 

Are you sure it's not just the brake pads? They float and can make a noise when shifting in the caliper. I usually only hear mine do it on the first drive of the day.