Have to use shift lock override to change out of park

I replaced the brake light switch which was not faulty and checked the fuses ACC,IGN1,IG1 no 2 and STOP. Battery NEG pole is clean and shift lock override button works.
I assume the next step would be measuring voltage at the solenoid cable connector.
Is that correct? Which connector is this?

Is it the one on the side (see photo) so do I have to remove the shifter assy to get at it?
If there is no voltage where is the next connection ? Not directly from the brake light switch I presume.

 

Found this just now from tacolama. And the location of the ECU form Muddinfun. So does the ECM send both ground and positive?

Take a good look at the stop light switch and it's wiring.


The ecu provides the voltage through the wire in the the below diagram (e-8-15) sending power engaging the solenoid when hitting the brakes and unlocking the shifter.
Unplug the 2 wire switch at the shift lock solenoid.Ignition off, using your multimeter on Ohms find a good ground for one lead and the ground terminal in the 2 wire connector for the other lead.You should hear a buzz or have a real low reading depending on your meter (my meter usually says 0.2).Next grab the ECM wire (e8-15) with one lead and the other terminal in the 2 wire connector the + one.You should have a similar reading.This is just testing the wires.If either reading is real high you either have a bad ground wire or your + signal wire is corroded or broken between the ecm and the solenoid.I think the ecm sends both signals but have no way to verify it.The common ecm ground is that (e-6 1 ).

ECM connector for brake switch test.

 

You are looking at the wrong thing. Not the ECM you are showing.

Read this thread. GOOD INFO.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wont-shift-out-of-park-without-pressing-override-fixed.771814/

How did you check the fuses?
Ohm Meter or visual?
Get a meter and check the fuses if you didn't already.

Here is the shift lock circuit:


System Outline
When the ignition SW is turned to ACC position the current from the ACC fuse flows to TERMINAL 6 of the shift lock control ECU. When the ignition SW is turned to ON position, the current from the IG1 fuse flows to TERMINAL 1 of the shift lock control ECU.

1. Shift Lock Mechanism If the brake pedal is depressed with the ignition SW set at ON (The stop lamp SW is on), the shift lock control ECU is activated, allowing the driver to change the shift lever to a position other than the P position.

2. Key Interlock Mechanism With the ignition SW at ON or ACC position, when the shift lever is put in P position, the current flowing from TERMINAL 12 of the shift lock control ECU to key interlock solenoid is cut off. This causes the key interlock solenoid to turn off (Lock lever disengages from LOCK position) and the ignition key can be turned from ACC to LOCK position.

 

Thanks guys. Yes I used a multimeter to measure the resistance and all fuses are OK. The STOP fuse is called TAIL at my car though.
I removed the console. See photos. Seems a lot of dust etc has collected there over the years.
In the link jimmy provided was the suggestion that one could remove the solenoid completely and keep it electrically connected for testing.
Is that as simple as removing the PH screw with a very short screwdriver and sliding it backwards? And vice versa? See photo of that thread.
It would be nice to be able to keep using the car during the operation as it is my daily driver.
And I assume I would have more space measuring with that backprobe.
That seems like microsurgery, what a tiny connector!

 

Anyone can answer the below mentioned? Thanks for the help.
In the link jimmy provided was the suggestion that one could remove the solenoid completely and keep it electrically connected for testing.
Is that as simple as removing the PH screw with a very short screwdriver and sliding it backwards? And vice versa? See photo of that thread.

 

I Think, That would be the ticket. Give it a try and see what happens.

Worst case is you could leave it out and not have a worthless shift lock.

 

I'm assuming you checked that your brake lights are working?

 

Yes and replaced the brake light switch just in case. Now vacuumed everything and will remove the solenoid housing.

 

I got the following readings backprobing without removing the solenoid.

Pin 1 (Pink) Ignition power (12v with key in run)
Pin 6 (Grey) Accessory Power (12v with key in accessory or run)
Pin 7 (Blue) Brake switch input (0v with brake depressed)
Pin 8 (White/Black) Ground (0v at all times) I ACTUALLY JUST USED THIS AS GROUND WHEN MEASURING 12V AT PIN 6. I DID NOT MEASURED VOLTAGE AT THIS PIN.

So what would be the next step? Thanks guys for assisting me.

 

This would seem to be your issue.
If your brake lights work but you have no power there with the brake depressed then you either have a broken wire or issue in one of the junction boxes, any evidence of rodent acivity anywhere?

 

Yes brake lights work and no rodent activity noticeable. I see 2 inline junction boxes to check on the drawing. Where would these be situated?
I do have some electronic issues as in parking brake light, key in ignition chime working on and off. And the remote for unlocking the doors stopped working a while ago.

 

The 1B and 1C connectors are on the front of the Driver's side Fuse/Junction Box.

DD and DB are on JB No1 (small off white box with 4 connectors above the driver's kick panel).

Not sure what year your truck is but I have a pinouts file that is good for 05-08, also connector locations can be found here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-information-diagnostics.784008/#post-28042160

 

Wow dm93 that is some labour of love. Thanks I have the 07. I will check it this afternoon.

 

Thanks again for the files. They are of great assistance.
Both the schematic diagram and your XLS pinouts file mention 2 wires coming in on PIN2 on 1B.
It did not make any sense to me.
I only see one wire coming in though.

2 STP Blue Power from Stop Lamp SW (S10 Pin 1) (W/O VSC) Power from STOP LP CTRL Relay Pin 3 (W VSC) (STOP Fuse) X

Will start measuring voltage later today and work my way up from PIN2 to PIN14.

 

You have to refer to the bracketed notes, there is only 1 wire. If you have VSC it comes from the STOP LP CTRL Relay, if you don't have VSC it comes from the Stop Lamp Switch.

 

Thanks. No VSC. There is 12V at PIN 2 and 6 if I depress the brake pedal. Next weekend I will check PIN 5 and 14 when I have time to remove that kick panel.

 

I got 11+ volt at PIN 14/DB. Could not locate PIN5/DD. Measured again at PIN7/S7 but no 12V.
I guess next step would be to splice the incoming blue wire and supply 12V directly from the battery to see if the solenoid
still works? If so, then run a cable directly from the stop lamp switch?

 

DD will be one of the connectors on the other end of that junction box.
I suppose you could do that, I always try to do everything I can to locate the break because unless it's broken right at a connector there's almost always multiple wires compromised even though other symptoms may not be aparent yet.

 

Yes there are symptoms but i am not sure if they are related to the same cause:
I do have some electronic issues as in parking brake light and key in ignition chime working on and off. And the remote for unlocking the doors stopped working a while ago.