Anything Manufacturing - Small to Medium Scale Metal Work (CAD/CAM included!)

Being a "manufacturing" thread I thought I'd offer up some pictures and information for those ever needing to disassemble their Z axis assembly on a Langmuir CNC table.

If you ever do find yourself needing to do so, I guarantee it'll be because one of your IHS wires broke. My situation was altogether different, but the process is the same.

Step 1. Remove the Z axis assembly from your gantry

Step 2. Remove the two set screws that hold the right guide rod using a 1/8" allen wrench; the right guide rod as if you're looking at the face of the assembly



Step 3. Loosen the 4 bolts on your coupler to detach the motor shaft from the lead screw; if your assembly as 2 years old or newer, it'll use a 7/64" allen wrench

Step 4. Undo the 4 bolts holding your motor to the assembly using a 5/32" allen wrench and set aside

Step 5. Use a brass drift and soft mallet to gently tap your right guide rod upward; for the first inch or two it'll be tight, after which you'll be able to slide it up by hand (don't do this yet)

Step 6. Place your assembly in a zip lock bag, then slide your guide rod up a bit while spinning your lead screw by hand to guide the mount downward; the bag ensures you catch this spring if/when it pops out



This is how the rod will look like when you remove your mount from the assembly



What happens often times is the bolts holding the wire terminals become loose, causing IHS to not operate correctly

In my particular case, I received an assembly with the tab broken that holds the IHS spring; a 7/32" allen wrench is used if you need to remove the socket head screws holding the adjustable eccentric bearings

 

So, I wanted to add this if it helps anyone.

I found a thread (multiple actually) where people were experiencing one sided beveling. Several with Hypertherm machines believe it or not.

I ran a test cut yesterday only to be disappointed with the results - 8 degrees of beveling on the top edge, and between 2-3 degrees on all remaining sides. Seems the issue I've been chasing for over a month and a half now is still present.

Anyway, going back to the threads I found, one of them suggested that the author replace the o-rings on their torch. Even though the machine and torch were about a year old, it was suggested since nothing else worked.

Unfortunately, I don't have any extra o-rings and the nearby shops didn't have any in stock either. I decided to follow the second suggestion which was to lubricate the new o-rings so I got the sil glyde out.

To my surprise, the results were roughly a little over 3 degrees of beveling on the top edge with the remaining sides coming in at around 2 degrees - holy shit did we find the cause?









The beveling looks to be so close with one another (even almost) that I'm betting I could rectify this with some torch height adjustment.

Of course, repeatability is the next factor so I need to perform test cuts of different varieties to see if the issue goes away. I did however, place an order for both some new o-rings as well as the specific grease Hypertherm uses.

Oh and for kicks, I measured out my test piece which on CAD is supposed to be 2" x 2". Physical measurements are 2.0075" x 2.0040"

 

What a killer shop! Really like your welding table. I wish I’d made a couple notches in mine.

 

That’s got to be a huge relief!

PS the swag press looks good. I worry about racking with a design like that, but have no idea if that is a problem IRL.

 

We're not sailing yet!

Remember, repeatability!

Unfortunately, the only remaining 3/16" I have left is for parts I need to make so I'll have to rely on the 16 gauge I have on hand.

Fortunately, I've got a whole 4' x 8' of cold rolled that is just for fun so I'm hoping I can use that to gauge beveling somewhat.

 

Last test cuts done on the remaining 3/16" that's on my table.





The beveling, is far more even across all sides and is much better in general.









Even the center hole shows no tapering, and it was programmed to cut 0.625", which oddly is the only thing not exact. Measures 0.645" so I'll have to figure that out.



All from using Sil Glyde on my o-rings.

 

We're closer!



Not going to fret by being over by this much



Or the other end



Those differences are largely due to the slight beveling which is at 3 degrees at its worst.

Increasing the speed for the hole from 25ipm to 45ipm gave me a measurement that's only .003" over

 

So, parts wise I think I can move forward with cutting them out.

Signs? Not yet.

I'll really have to spend some time dialing it in for 16 gauge, not to mention I'll need to go over my table and check movement around.

It's not providing sharp movements as evidence by the rounded corners in the letters.

 

It's a whole different ballgame running a Hypertherm.

Whenever I cut 16 gauge, I used to run it at 30 amps and 110ipm.

With the Hypertherm, I ran this at 45 amps and 249ipm.





Thought my table was going to give up the ghost with how fast it was running

 

a suggestion would be to review what options your CAD software has for how it plans the cut.... like carpentry, does it cut on the line, inside the line or outside the line......
for our laser programs(small prototype shop), operator/programmer need to account for the cut path to get parts in tolerance

 

What you are seeing are the effects of 'kerf value'.

I only recently started this thread, so much of the existing information was left out but this is a new plasma cutter and torch on a table I've been running for +2 years.

I'm completely unfamiliar with laser, but when performing CAM, once you perform several test cuts you can physically measure your test piece and compare it to that of your CAD.

The result should get you within the thousandths range as here you can see a 2.5" tall part measures in at 2.501"



Center hole measurement is just as close coming in at 0.628" vs CAD which measures 0.625".



I use Fusion for CAD and CAM, and so if you have the correct kerf value entered, will offset your cut path to give you your desired size part.

Speed is a contributor to hole and slot sizing as well as too slow of a speed can burn away more material whereas too fast of a speed can cause a tapered hole causing it to be undersized.

I didn't dive into these values right off the bat like I had hoped because I had over 8 degrees of beveling on a single edge, something that shouldn't technically happen in CNC plasma cutting as it had no effect on the opposing side.

The end result? New torch needed new o-rings.

 

I want to get new O-rings and sum-glide just because now.

 

Is this the kit you got?

 

My o-rings and lube came as separate part numbers.

The lube is 027055 - https://bakersgas.com/products/hype...s.com/products/hypertherm-027055&gad_source=1

And the o-rings specifically for the torch head are 428180 - https://bakersgas.com/products/hyperthermtorcho-ringkit-qty-5-428180?_pos=1&_sid=87a233848&_ss=r

Keep in mind, the o-rings are specific to the Duramax style torch and they are for the torch head only.



I only have the small set of o-rings that go to the torch connector because they were provided to me by a member on another forum. Looking through the entire owner's manual for my 45XP did not reveal a part number for this specific o-ring.

 

@zippsub9

Spoke to Hypertherm one last time today and I got a part number for the small o-ring within the connector itself.

It's 026008 - https://bakersgas.com/products/hyperthermo-ring-silicon-176x-070-026008

Even though this was a case of bad o-rings on a brand new torch, purchased from an authorized retailer, Hypertherm pretty much said "oh well" when I disclosed what the fix was, and how I finally got to that point.

Over $65 of steel used and gone to the trash, going through two different swirl rings, three electrodes, and three nozzles, and they couldn't even say sorry much less offer me a single consumable set when I asked if they could provide some sort of voucher or something for a discount on some consumables. Instead, they said to "talk to the distributor from where you bought your torch".

Like wtf? Sure, I just asked for a single set not even a pack of 5, but instead I'm told I should hit up the retailer that sold me the torch...and just pretend like the manufacturer of the torch isn't at fault for anything.

 

I would.have expected better of hypertherm....

 

Thanks for this note. I just got back home. This is a bit sad given there huge dominance of the market. I’m also a bit surprised not just from all the feedback and thorough troubleshooting but at the end of the day it really isn’t anything more than just good will for them.

 

Well an update to the whole fiasco.

I did actually take Hypertherm's advice and reached out to Baker's Gas.

First with a phone call, which included me telling Levi "I fully don't expect anything from you guys at all. You didn't make the torch, you just sell them" only to be told to shoot out an email, attach some pics if I could, and go from there.

Sent an email Saturday evening, summarizing as much as I could but highlighting key details such as the disassembly process, the many cut outs performed, and the time wasted.

Here's a picture of most of the stuff cut out from a 2' x 4' piece of 3/16" steel I would normally use for my internal bed stiffeners; these were all test cuts and all stuff that's in my scrap box for recycling.

I didn't care to flip them all over, but I promise you there's writing on each and every single one.



Well, this morning I got a reply from Baker's gas informing me that they would reach out to Hypertherm.

A few hours later I got a phone call, stating they spoke to Hypertherm, and asking what they think is the best course of action.

I told Kevin, the gentleman from Baker's Gas, that I wanted nothing more than to have the issue acknowledged by Hypertherm, and that 8 degrees is laughable and that I did indeed have an issue as I proved them wrong once I got new o-rings. That and the most I had asked for was just a discount on their consumables to replace those I wasted, but nothing more.

Got off the phone, and received a call back shortly, only to be told Hypertherm acknowledges the issue, and states that they're sorry and will be sending replacement electrodes and nozzles to me via mail.

The theory from Kevin is that I may have just gotten the 'wrong individual' when I last called to close my case. But that he was glad to get involved to take care of the whole mess.

So yeah, Hypertherm is making up for it but the real customer service goes out to Baker's Gas.

I'll keep supporting them like I have, hope y'all do the same!

 

Glad a local company stood up for you on your behalf.