4th gen Oil Change

Seems unlikely. Filters have anti-drain valves. They’re rubber flaps that allow oil to flow in but not out when the oil pressure stops.

Plus, the 2nd gen trucks didn’t blow up from oil starvation. They are 20 years old and have billions of miles on those top-mounted filters.

 

My 2nd gen filter was never full when I pulled it off.

You can see what's left in one here:

https://youtu.be/hWS9URPhApM?si=Inpdel8uNDMiwX6I

 

Not sure if anyone seen this, but his video is pretty good about fuel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAmEGI7xvBw

 

Exactly my thoughts. Why mess with a perfect setup? Add a fumoto valve and it's a cake walk.

No ramps, No awkward positions on cold ground, No removing of wheels or skid plates, and No mess. Just pull into my garage after work, slide a oil catch pan under and open the valve. Go inside and relax for a bit. Come back out, close the valve, remove easy access oil filter on top of engine bay and let it's contents drain into an empty water bottle. New filter on. Fill with oil. Reset oil minder. Done. Don't even need gloves.

 

anyone can shine a light on the "hybrid" oil ? like this one
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-hybrid-0w-20

 

The engineers probably decided the filter needed to be next to the oil pan. Why? I don't know.

I changed mine the other day and found the filter location to be fine. I gotta crawl under to flip the Fumoto anywho.

 

"Hybrid engines run differently than non-hybrid (internal combustion) engines - they generally run at lower operating temperatures as the power source rotates between the engine and battery. I suspect that since the ICE is not running constantly, it doesn't get to operating temperature on a regular basis as a non-hybrid would, resulting in more contaminates in the engine oil. This oil might also be good for engines that don't get that many miles on each year and do a lot of short, 'grocery trip' runs.

 

Pure speculation.

Gotta love oil change threads…

 

Sorry if this has already been asked, but does anyone make an aftermarket skid plate with access for oil changes without taking the whole thing off?

 

RCI and CBI to name just a couple. But plan on adding a drain plug valve (Fumoto) since the location is somewhat elevated.

 

I installed a Fumoto valve during my first oil change, and I'm glad I did. The oil gushes when you pull the plug. I installed the Trailhunter oil pan, and I'm half-tempted to bore a hole to access the Fumoto with the drain tube and change the filter every other 5,000-mile service.

The Trailhunter skid plate allows you to leave two bolts on, and it slips off. Because of this feature, it's not too bad to put back on.

 

It isn't speculation if it's true. The hybrid system in these trucks is not the same as in a Prius. That hybrid oil is intended for those smaller engines that can operate for dozens of miles on the internal battery.

 

Just did mine at a little over 1800 and removing the so called gravel guard . I see stripped holes where it goes on if you’re using an impact and not paying attention. Other than that , it’s a piece of cake .

 

I've come to a decision on the whole 5,000 vs 10,000-mile question. Maybe the oil is still "good" after 5,000, but yuck.

Left: 5,000 mi.

 

I made the decision after watching the Car Care Nut's YouTube on maintaining (Toyota) turbo engines.

 

i did the same and there is also oil geek on youtube that i cant recall that made me do a oil change at 1k. Next oil change ill do at 5k, and i plan to stick with every 5k cause i do offroading and more wear. I also plan to do earlier maintence for other items

 

Send your oil out and have it tested. I use Blackstone Laboratories testing my motorcycle oil on occasion just to see what is going on and if the oil is breaking down.

 

Hey!! a spin on oil filter,

 

Favorite video of the Day! We've all spilt oil, but your unedited reaction had me rollin'! Still a good video!