No fluid bleeds out from rear brakes...

I installed some rear brake Speed Bleeders on a 2003 TRDOR Prerunner. I was surprised that no fluid came out when changing the bleeder nipples. The brake pedal was firm and never changed so this old beater truck doesn't have rear brakes. Something not very noticeable since the front brakes do most of the work. I haven't changed the front bleeder nipples yet.
Isn't there a valve in the rear that modulates the pressure? It's been 18+ years since I owned a Gen 1.
I removed the drums, adjusted and cleaned the area.

Any assistance would be appreciated...!!!

 

There is a zert on the LSPV
That needs to be bled
Then the 2 rear corners

 

Thanks for jogging my memory. I'll search for location.

 

Rob
I found that my taco was running with 100% front brake bias only
My LSPV failed

I deleted with $35 JEGS manual PV
Now I have 4 wheel skid marks

not too difficult

 

He is my thread
In addition, few members show how to just connect diff mounted soft line to the hard line

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lspv-delete-correct-return-lines.820615/

 

Mine is ABS. When helping previous owner I remember some kind of $80 valve with mechanical actuator being down stream.

 

I like your 'motto' under your username, hermano words to live life by

 

Despite the fact that I myself have bypasses the LSPV on my truck (albeit a different way then than installing a manual valve), I don't advise doing so unless you understand what that means, or if you tow/haul frequently. The valve is there to adjust the brake bias for a reason - if you have more weight in the bed on the hitch, you need the rear brakes to do more.

Replacement LSPV's are not expensive, and you don't have to worry about messing with the return line. For most people replacement is the correct decision.

 

Thanks man
I’m old……been around the Sun enough times not to pretend I know everything
Hell, I have learned a shit ton from other seasoned members here (like yourself) and hopefully have helped others as well

Good Feeling all around

 

How long do these last? I found a receipt from 2017 when I bought a new OEM LSPV. It was expensive but not like they are today.
I'll take a chance and buy the $25 one from Amazon this time.
The original one was replaced because it was leaking but the current one is not. I wonder if it just needs some adjustment?

 

It's a dead end street valve, kinda, I took mine apart and cleaned it up internally, put it back together, still works fine after about 7 or 8 years. No leaky.

 

It took an impact driver to get the cap nut off.

 

keep this thread updated if you can, I'd like to see how this goes for you. I just ordered what I'm assuming is the same $25 Amazon replacement and curious about its functionality vs the $300 oem part. Mine is seems to be in the same condition as yours, dysfunctional, not leaking, and crusted on there.

 

OK but you are one step ahead of me as I haven't ordered mine yet. I wanted to work on it first but just too busy with other stuff.

 

I assume I got the LSPV working by exercising the linkage rod yesterday. I felt the brake pedal sink when I moved the truck this morning. That gave me the incentive to work on this again today.

I bled the LSPV then both back brake cylinders.
I was going to replace the bleeder nipple on the LSPV with a speed bleeder but I only had the SB7100S which was too short. It takes a SB7100.

Maybe bleeding the LSPV and exercising the linkage every couple of years will keep them working longer?

 

Alright then I'll let yall know how it goes when it comes to replacing mine this weekend. My truck is a crusty pile from the northeast so I don't think exercising it on mine will do shit. Will report back

 

Best of luck with the Amazon part. I hope it works! Looking forward to your report.

 

To follow up on this: The installation process was brutal, but only because my truck is a crusty POS. On a clean truck the swap is super easy, 2 mounting nuts, 3 brake lines, the load sensing rod thing, then bleed it. I broke a bolt so now mine is hanging on with 1 and the brake line nuts rounded out so vice grips were required. It doesn't look pretty, but 2 days later I don't see any leakage so I'm satisfied. Bled the rear brakes and fluid actually comes out (even has pressure!).

 

Good job and I'm hoping this part will last for you. It takes a special mechanic to work on rusted vehicles.

 

I would like to see some pics but you probably were not in the mood.