Keep messing up my rear drums, please give me some advice.

Typically, I use the parking brake twice a day: once when I park the Tacoma at home and once when I get to work unless I'm running errands.
After replacing the rear brakes and drum, I adjusted them by turning the adjusting wheel in each drum almost one click at a time until I felt a slight drag.

 

Sorry for the late response, totally forget to check this site during the week. Still havent found anything out and I'm tired of dumping money

For now, I'm just going to live with it as it doesn't affect my safety and is just an annoyance. Let me know if you find anything out!

 

Just throwing this out there as something easy to check / try:

I had weird vibrations in the rear when my truck was new... re-torqued the leaf spring mounts (forget what they are called off the top of my head, the two big U bolts that go around the axle) (4 nuts per side) and that solved the issue. They weren't even close to the torque spec. Not 'loose' but definitely not tight enough.

 

I'll give that a shot! Thanks!

 

Is it just, the drums warping? Any other problems with the brakes?

 

It's just the drums, fortunately! No other complaints, its truly been a great truck!

 

Last weekend, I raised the rear wheels of my truck using a floor jack placed in the center of the rear differential. This allowed both wheels to be lifted off the ground. I released the parking brake and manually turned both the left and right rear wheels. There was no noticeable drag from the brake shoes. I performed this check because I was concerned that the shoes might be dragging against the drums—either because the parking brake was too tight or the rear brake cylinders were stuck open, causing the shoes to press against the drums and potentially warp them. Fortunately, that wasn’t the case.

However, the vibration persists when I apply the brakes. I wanted to narrow down the issue to the rear brakes. On my way home last week, I engaged the emergency brake and immediately felt a vibration in the truck's body. My next step will be to bleed the brakes. While I'm not sure it will solve the problem, it’s essential maintenance. I've noticed that the rear brakes heat up quite quickly, and I'm unsure if that is normal.

 

Be careful applying the parking brake while driving. Mine locks the wheels hard on the first click. I'm afraid to try it while moving. I need to adjust it out one of these days.

 

Super odd, I can get 4-5 clicks in while going 20ish miles per hour before locking for even a split second. These drums are weird.

 

There is a way of testing the runout out on the hub to make sure the hub itself is not warped. Just have to know the range that is acceptable for it.

if you are suspecting a parking brake issue, try disconnecting the cable on each shoe on each side. and tying it off to the side temp.

Have the wheel bearings checked again too.

Warped brakes are usually a pulsating in the pedal too.

Could put it in 4h and remove the main drive shaft, does it go away? if so then its not the brakes and its some kind of driveline issue.

 

Hey OP. I did my rear brakes last year in the fall and I've had nonstop vibes of varying intensity. I think it's a combo of a few issues.

I'll just jump straight to the point: poor quality parts. It appears you are a student, so likely strapped for cash. Did you buy the cheapest brakes you could find? I did and what a mistake.

Back in the fall I replaced front and back brakes. I bought the cheapest drums I could find (and the 2nd cheapest rotors). The drums were so out of round I had to take them back & get another set. I had planned on buying another brand but they only had the same ones in stock. Replaced them and still had vibrations, maybe a bit better.

Then, after I spent hours ruling out other possibilities, I went to machine shop and had them turned. The mechanic could not believe how much material he had to remove. Brakes were much smoother after that but he had to remove so much material that the drums were nearly out of spec. They were so warped that there is no way they could have been balanced - which lead to my new issue of highway vibes!

Mechanic told me I had cupped tires while doing some exhaust work and he recommend I have the wheels balance. For $60 I figured why not, it had been a while. It seemed better at first but it's been a few months and I notice the vibrations again - that all started when I replaced the drums.

The cherry on top of it all is now my rotors have worn unevenly. Very harsh braking though they are not warped, another problem with cheap parts.

As for you, if you are certain you are warping your drums that frequently, you either bought the cheapest drums possible or you have a sticking parking brake cable. If they were 'over adjusted' you would skid when hitting the brakes or would noticeably feel it turning the rear wheels off the ground. I'm not an expert at drum brakes but the sticking cable could prevent the contraction of the shoes after releasing pressure from the pedal. This is a fairly common issue for those who drive thru creeks/rivers or deep enough waters to submerge the cables. They corrode and stick.

Also, I have had seized U joint cause 'harsh braking vibes' from the rear. When hitting the brakes, it changes the angle of the drive line

 

Sounds like you parking brake pedal is not adjusted correctly. I believe service manual says 4-6 clicks to hold the vehicle stationary. You can adjust that without touching the brakes.

 

I do need to figure it out at some point, but I just haven't had time. Mine's a lever not a pedal. Is there a cable adjustment behind the lever in the center console somewhere? How do I figure out if it needs cable adjustment vs drum adjustment?

 

Oh yeah mines a 2nd gen with the pedal lol. There should be. That’s where mine is. Drum adjustment will affect your brake pedal travel. Cable adjustment will affect cable lever travel. I’m sure you could search it on youtube.

 

Duck? [looking around while I hold my shotgun] I don't see it... I see a Rock on the ground.

You meant Lucky Rock.

@Rock Lobster ... you lucky bastard. I was about to shoot you, I thought you were a duck which Pwakchop called you a duck. I wanted more points to my high score on Duck Hunt!

[kicking dirt]

 

Have a machinist friend ? Pull the drum and have him set up a dial indicator tip on the axle flange (where the drum mounts/sits) and check the amount of axle flange runout.

 

You’re right about me being a student! First time the dealership replaced everything, I couldn’t even tell you what they used. When I did it myself I bought OEM parts from a dealership near my apartment, and they warped shortly after as well. Not sure the root cause, but I’ve decided to just live with it for the time being. Still doing all of the other maintenance, oil every 5k, transmission when I will finally hit 30k, but not looking to do another brake job at the moment. Too much on my plate especially with an upcoming thermodynamics midterm. Hopefully I’ll get it solved at some point but as of now it’s just an annoyance/headache. When it’s more than just myself in the car it’s pretty embarrassing, though

Thank you for the suggestions!

 

I know for a fact that the shoes aren't dragging against the drum, and the e-brake is adjusted properly. However, I do not understand why my rear brakes get extremely hot. Unless that's the nature of drum shoes.

 

Well they are getting hot because of friction ! (I'm a smart ass, I know lol) I assume by hot you mean hot enough that you can smell the brakes?

Something has to be sticking. Could try using the adjuster on the parking brake to test. Adjust it so the parking brake doesn't hold then go for a drive. If your brakes still get hot, then it's not your parking brake.

Are you able to get a schematic of the brake system? There may be a faulty valve or a kinked line that isn't allowing pressure to drop when you release the pedal.

 

Okay well let us know when you get it sorted out. Seems like it's a common problem. Also, don't leave it too long, each time you hit the brakes it puts fatigue stress on the bearings and your suspension. It could also cause your tires cup.