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One wheel is harder to spin than the other

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by YotaBro, Oct 20, 2024.

  1. Oct 20, 2024 at 3:40 PM
    #1
    YotaBro

    YotaBro [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I jacked my truck up to take the wheels off, and i noticed that my driver wheel spins freely, but my passenger requires more force to spin it. Any idea what this could mean?
     
    Black97v6MT likes this.
  2. Oct 20, 2024 at 3:45 PM
    #2
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Often a dragging brake.

    Is this front or rear?
     
  3. Oct 20, 2024 at 3:49 PM
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    YotaBro

    YotaBro [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front. how do i fix that?
     
  4. Oct 20, 2024 at 4:03 PM
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    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    If you verify that's the problem, it may need a servicing of the caliper sliders to free them up, or it may need a new caliper.

    Often you'll have a pull to one side if that is a dragging side, as it will grab quicker. Sometimes that wheel will be loaded with more brake dust than the other side.

    When were the brakes last serviced?

    When last replaced? (different than serviced)

    It could be something else (like a bad wheel bearing) but it's always good to start simple.
     
    Extra Hard Taco likes this.
  5. Oct 20, 2024 at 4:26 PM
    #5
    Digiratus

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    If you are a 4x4, it could be a slight CV axle bind at full droop. If you raise that wheel a little bit, does it spin easier?
     
    Black97v6MT and Clearwater Bill like this.
  6. Oct 20, 2024 at 6:38 PM
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    YotaBro

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    It doesnt pull, i just had it aligned as well. They test drove it and said the brakes were fine.

    It was happening on my last CV axles and I just put new CVS in and its still happening so i don't think it's the cvs. It is 4x4
     
  7. Oct 20, 2024 at 6:48 PM
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    Extra Hard Taco

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    Just had this issue with another vehicle I own. Caliper was shot and not allowing part of the brake pad to fullly retract. Ended up replacing the caliper, rotor, and pads.
     
    YotaBro[OP] likes this.
  8. Oct 21, 2024 at 8:36 PM
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    YotaBro

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    interesting, what do you mean by the caliper was shot? what did it look like? I'm trying to imagine how the caliper could effect the brake retracting
     
  9. Oct 21, 2024 at 8:50 PM
    #9
    henryp

    henryp Well-Known Member

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    It could look like uneven brake pad wear (one pad worn out more then the other). A bad caliper would have a seized piston. You can always find a nice example on YouTube if you search for 1st gen Tacoma bad caliper.
     
    YotaBro[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  10. Oct 22, 2024 at 2:54 AM
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    Extra Hard Taco

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    ^this

    One piston was only somewhat retracted causing the brake pad to be in a permanent state against the rotor. The other piston functioned as normal for the most part. The pad had been worn down to where it looked like a wedge.
     
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  11. Oct 22, 2024 at 2:55 AM
    #11
    Extra Hard Taco

    Extra Hard Taco Well-Known Member

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    ARB Bumper, SOS sliders, SOS rear bumper, SOS skid plate. OME Lift. Some other stuff.
    See the above post.
     
    YotaBro[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  12. Oct 22, 2024 at 1:57 PM
    #12
    YotaBro

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    sounds good, thanks. I'll check that out!
     
    henryp[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Oct 22, 2024 at 8:55 PM
    #13
    YotaBro

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    FYI there are no relevant videos when I youtube that phrase
     
  14. Nov 21, 2024 at 2:08 PM
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    YotaBro

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    Thinking of tackling this soon as i think it's causing me a hit in gas millage.

    Whats the proper course to diagnose it?

    I'm thinking the problem is either

    A.) a siezed caliper or
    B.) a bad wheel bearing.

    Caliper would be the easier fix. But i don't want to replace the caliper and have the problem exist if it's the wheel bearing
     
  15. Nov 21, 2024 at 2:11 PM
    #15
    Kwikvette

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    If it's the bearing, you could quickly and easily tell by grabbing the wheel at two ends and rocking it back and forth for play (12 and 6).

    Caliper you'll notice especially if you try re-seating the pistons after pulling it off.
     
    henryp and YotaBro[QUOTED][OP] like this.
  16. Nov 21, 2024 at 2:30 PM
    #16
    YotaBro

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    There was play 12-6 but that was the UBJ and I just replaced it, no play anymore, but there is some play if i do it at 3-9 still, could this still be the bearing? any other way to check caliper? or are you saying just to take the caliper off, and if it's hard to put back on (due to the pistons re-seating) then it's likely a problem with the caliper?
     
  17. Nov 27, 2024 at 1:01 PM
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    YotaBro

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    so when i brake the truck pulls to the right (same side as the problem wheel), im guessing this mean it’s the caliper? or could it be something else?
     
  18. Nov 27, 2024 at 3:09 PM
    #18
    Kwikvette

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    Sounds likely.

    Have you pulled the wheels?

    I'd inspect the brake pads and look for uneven wear, and go as far as pulling the caliper and see how hard it is to move back each piston.

    Is that one side hot after driving, compared to the other? Smell any burning?
     
    YotaBro[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  19. Nov 28, 2024 at 5:52 PM
    #19
    ControlCar

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    Last time I had a locked up caliper…
    Was pulling hard to affected side….
    To confirm
    I used a laser temp thermometer and affected side was more than double the temp of the non affected side after 15m drive
    I’m sure that a feel test will work as well
    Just put some water on your hands so you don’t burn yourself
     
    YotaBro[OP] likes this.

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