2nd gen manual transmission fix

Did you swap to an RC62?

 

found leak from bleeder screw (it was tight) smh. 15k on it

tightened it some more, cleaned, and will recheck later

 

removed transmission
installed new URD Torque-U Heavy flywheel, Stage 2 clutch kit/pressure plate

performed cleaning of bellhousing and CM hydrotob, applied light coating of rubber grease to seal mating area (without taking tob apart) and high temp grease at metal contact surfaces (such as to pressure plate fingers)

began driving/initial break in
pedal adjustment still moves a bit on it's own, but propshaft is out being serviced. Maybe it'll stop when I get it back in. Been driving in 4HI to turn on front diff and be FWD

Became quiet again.
230mi (mixed driving, trying mostly city) started chirping again


urge to trade in grows

 

I understand the urge to trade in. My wife was talking about getting some bigger and more family friendly. I cant believe I suggested selling my truck and taking her 4runner, but Im just tried of the issues with the tob/clutchmaster kit and worrying about when its going to fail "AGAIN".

 

This stopped for about 6 months and is now back.

 

I bought one lasted almost 2 years almost 30 K mile the O-ring wore out had to purchase new upgraded one from clutch master I notice some wear scratches on shaft wear bearing rides took some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out working Kik new again probably should buy new if and the O-ring goes out again but it works when it’s new better shifting and quieter than junky OEM also did the accumulator delete was like driving a new truck!

 

Was the new seal easy to install onto the bearing? Mine just let go today.

 

It’s not on the bearing it’s in the the hydraulic release behind the bearing, I left it connected to transmission housing using pick tool to remove old worn O-ring the new one is rounded like a normal O-Ring the original was like a rubber washer flat inner and outer works great so far .

 

Thank you for the quick response. I’m gonna hit CM Monday morning and get seal on the way. I’m considering trading this thing in over it. An unreliable toyota is not something I’m used to.

 

Worn seals on the CM is a sign of failure farther on. My bearing wore out and started shifting in the housing, causing the piston to sit unevenly and rub in the CM piston housing causing the bearing to fail. Scrap the CM all together. It's 100% trash.

 

I’m looking at what it entails to run the kellam Tipton bearing setup. I can’t let it stay down too long though so I gotta make sonething
Happen relatively quick. Thank you for the advice.

 

Options are return to stock or go Tilton. I am gonna go the Tilton route because I loved how the hydro TOB felt. I bike to work 99% of the time so at least I can be down for longer.

 

I scrapped my CM kit too when it lasted maybe a year- year and a half. Best and worst thing to happen.
I ordered the conversion kit for the tilton and when I get extra money I'll pick up the rest of the parts for the tilton conversion.

 

Just providing an update on my post from 2.5 year ago - The squeal has still not returned after the fix quoted above

 

I've had the sleeve kit since 2012 and my pickup had 30k. The bearing blew to pieces at 155k. It had been chirping again for years, but it finally failed. I have driven the crap out of it. Frequent off roading, snow trips, lots of time in the woods, and towing. I replaced the clutch with all new toyota parts, I was hoping the bearing was updated by now. After two months with the factory bearing back in its chirping again.

 

Do nothin, bought my 2011 Tacoma back in 2014 50k miles and in 2016 (80k miles) heard the chirping noise, I did nothing and I’m at 147k and trans still going strong, I rarely hear the chirping now and it seems to have gotten bette

 

Whew. OK, a lot going on here, but I am noticing some trends. My 2G has 199k on the original clutch, no chirps, tweets or slipping, but it gets very "bucky" starting from a stop fairly frequently. I'm hoping to not regret getting the 6MT after this, so here's what I am hoping is a best shot combination for a stock truck:

- New OEM flyhweel (at least this one is easy)
- New OEM PP/Disc, Aisin (I originally bought Luk before I discovered all the drama - it will be returned)
- URD Sleeve, and they confirmed the OEM bearing they modify for it is the one for the Aisin clutches
- The pointed set screws make my skin crawl..I would toss those down the laundry cute to hell, pretend I never saw them, and install with retaining compound
- New OEM clutch master/slave (TSB) and soft/flex lines
- Potentially modify or bypass the accumulator but that's more for curiosity; some people seem to think it makes a big difference but I'm pretty sure I can't even tell it's there to begin with (same on my former '22)

Really I think the only thing in question is the URD sleeve setup. Truck is still in one piece so it's a mystery on the condition of the quill, but short of a botched installation, I'm not sure I can come up with a reason why it would hurt anything since it uses an OEM bearing now.

 

Any chance you put a list of part numbers together? I need to gather everything too

 

I absolutely do but don't have the time to throw them up right now - bump this thread or DM me if I forget and don't do it in the next few days. It took a bit of legwork to get it all together so I definitely want to get it up for others' benefit if it helps.