Long Travel BS Thread

same here lol, my truck bone stock never got better than 15 and the minute i put wheels on it 12

 

Correct. The mounting locations including the hole in the firewall for the line pass through are probably already there. (They are on the wife’s 14 auto). The 2nd gen pedal is also plastic.

 

When fitting fiberglass are you guys reusing the black bolts that are pressed into the core support? Bottom 2 bolts in picture.
im thinking its gotta be easier to cut and drill them out so i can adjust up or down without kinda blindly drilling approximately where it is because of the bolts standoff

 

The pedal assembly holes and pass through are definitely not there on either gen. Getting that lined up nicely, crammed under the dash, is the hardest part of the swap.

Enough electronic hoozles and doozles on the 2nd gen (ECU, ABS system) and with the 3rd gen increasingly more complex that it would make for an interesting challenge but definitely not as easy as just slapping in some pedals and cutting a hole for the shifter like you could a fox body Mustang.

 

I wanna do 37’s on my daily but the steering rack is crap from OE and so are the brakes
So just going up a tire size comes with the cost of a fuel cell, steering rack and new brakes just to be truly safe/reliable…
So for now.. I’m stuck with 35’s or close to 12k in work just to have 37’s

And that’s not even considering if I need to change my gear set again

 

What do you mean by hydro locked? I guess I maybe didn’t fill it all the way up. I filled it some and then tried it. Wasn’t enough so just filled it till if flowed out while In the mount positioned how swag says too. I have to assist mine closed the last 1/8-1/4 even with the springs

 

I honestly believe if these trucks didn't come with the 1gr and 2tr then there would be a hundred threads about people swapping them in. They're both really great reliability and sizing for these trucks. Especially the 2tr, it's basically a late model vvti 2jz with two cylinders cut off, and all the aftermarket stuff from the 3rz carries over because they're literally the same engine with different heads. The swap to make really is a 2tr with a fat turbo and some kinda dry sump mod, and 4r tcase. Easy 3-500hp, able to put it all down, keeps it toyota parts and toyota reliability, and it's probably one of the best engine size/weight/power ratios available for the engine bay compared to any engine.

 

Also i can't think of a place, on- or off-road, where more than 400hp sounds fun with an offroad type vehicle. Ya either have room to improve elsewhere like suspension, drivetrain, aero, driving ability; or the roads/trails you're on are way more straight and boring than ya think hahah
Hell, even if i got bored of that i'd see it as a sign to go down a tire size or add more spare parts or something like that to keep things fun and get some mpg or reliability at the same time

 

That’s a secondary piece all together. Fit the glass and move the part to line up for the hole then drill.

With 100% certainty, the wife’s truck has every provision minus the proper floor plate for a shifter. We had the entire interior out for sound deadening and they are most definitely there. Any bolt holes etc are covered with tape.

 

I put waaaaay to much in but got it figured out

 

My truck is dangerous in the rain with 300hp and the rear locker. Can't even floor it from a stop because it tries to break the 35s loose and just hops.

 

700 crank is only going to deliver 4-450 or so to the back tires through an auto. Through a manual 550 or so, maybe even less depending on other factors. Parasitic loss is a massive thing when you’re turning 30lb axles and 115lb wheel and tire combos. Many of the TT’s out there making 1k+ crank are only in the low to mid 500’s at the back tire.

I recently watched a video where a TT tech was explaining just how much power loss they experience. It’s absolutely mind blowing. And also the reason you see gigantic trans coolers on these trucks. HP doesn’t just vanish. It’s converted to heat at an insanely fast rate.

I think most would be absolutely heart broken to see their 400 crank HP engine put down under 300 at the tire.

 

Well, her truck is different than every single 2nd gen Tacoma with an online documented manual tranny swap.

The issue is the floor mounted e-brake pedal. It sits right where the clutch pedal/master cylinder assembly needs to go and needs to be removed. That's why 2nd gen manual trucks have the hand-operated e-brake to the right of the steering wheel.

1st gen Tacoma cabs have the holes and pass through plate on the tunnel. 2nd gens and 3rds absolutely don't and require punching holes of various sizes. I'd love to see pics of this purported anomaly.

Here's mine after removing the e-brake boss:



After drilling the holes for the hydraulic lines and fabbing a stud bracket for the pedal assembly, before paint. You can see the recesses for the clutch pedal assembly are there but every 2nd gen cab I've seen requires removal of the floor mounted e-brake assembly, lining it all up without a whole lot of help from the factory cab to give a clear place to drill and mount and then drilling holes for the hydraulic lines just like this:



Unless you want your clutch pedal wonky or crooked, you have to nail this one. Mine turned out to my liking but it definitely took a hundred times measuring.



And the process for cutting the tranny tunnel on the sandwiched dual layers of the auto tranny cab. Previous gen Tacomas had plates you could remove. 2nd (and 3rd) gens definitely do not:

 

I’m making like 550 wheel on 35’s on the dyno with auto trans
But I don’t disagree with anything you said. Just adding my specs in.
In the rain… mine sucks
It’s either all traction control taking over accelerating from a stop… or
It’s entirely behaved at speeds, no inbetween. And accelerating from a stop into a curve…. Is sketch at best because the auto trans deciding to shift is enough to take traction away.
Not telling you anything new but I’m a fan of growing with HP
Nobody needs to sit down into 1k hp for their first ride

but if you had 300 then 500 then 700 then 850… then you can USUALLY handle 1k…

buts it’s all like the saying goes
“I looked so cool…. Til I didn’t”

 

So here’s my reasoning for going with a 700hp capable engine.

A. It’s overbuilt for my needs. This usually equates to reliability and longevity.
B. It will get me to my 400-450 whp goal
C. With tuning I can make it any HP I want up to the 700 crank it can handle in NA form on pump gas.

Anything we have ever built, the engine is ALWAYS over killed for the end goal. This has been done for reliability purposes mainly. As well as giving room to grow with a simple tune should you want more from it.

The bottom end of the blower car was built to be 2k hp capable. It’s right on the line of 1k at the tires. The trans was built to handle more than 1k as was the rear.

The more you flirt with the line of “it would blow up with 3* more timing” the more you kill longevity and reliability.

So when it comes to driveline. We always try to over shoot on the actual build out, rather than meet this fine line of “should be fine”.

 

Kibbee blowing up his customer's Raptor. Had the power to do burn outs in 4wd but was told "Not To" and he did. The bottom end came out the side.

 

MMHHHMMMM

I'm making around 300 wheel with a tuned 2GR with intake/exhaust and a MT. it feels massively faster than a 1GR with bolt-ons but no tune thru a turbo 400.

 

buy my motor and trans lmao.

motor and trans are both built for 1500hp. Probably makes like 550ish

 

As the saying goes. “Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”. This is why you over kill ALL of it.

Hell. I’d bet the 1,000 crank hp TT’s are capable of 3k hp. But they are built for endurance.

Too many with the mentality of “an LS is capable of 1,000hp on stock bottom end”. They sure are. Until you have one little hiccup and they yard sale.

 

I’m dead set on staying with 3 pedals or I seriously would consider it. 3 pedals just works so much better with our tight corners, and hands down way more fun to drive!