Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Appreciate the input as well. I’m going to look into cost for one or both and see what the cash price is to walk away with the mower and just have a dealer do the work. If the all in price makes sense, I’ll take a look.

I had a Woodland Mills stump grinder a while ago. Ended up finishing what I needed and sold it for the same price I paid. Had 30+ emails in the first day it was posted. My tractor was definitely a bit small to run it but it worked. Awesome little tool

 

I picked up a new(er) turd tonight... 1990's Craftsman GT w/ the 46" deck hydrostatic transmission and a 24 horsey, 2 cylinder Kohler engine. $50.. It cranked with jumper cables, dead bat-tree. It supposedly was running great until it didn't. I will put a bit of effort into it tomorrow, it could be a good beater if it's just a dead "nanny" switch somewhere.

 

Please post the deets! I bet it takes little fiddling to get it running.

Poll:

1)Bad carborator solenoid plunger?

2)Bad seat shut off kill wire to the coils?

3)Plugged fuel filter?

4)Ain't got any gas in it?

5) Needs new spark plugs?
(It's never the plugs)

6) Mice chewed the wire harness?

7)Mouse nests/vermin have plugged all the cooling fins and it's gonna need head gaskets?

8) The charging circuit fuse was blown and no 12v+ to the fuel shut off solenoid is present.

9) if the engine fires, but won't run when dribbling gas into the the throttle throat, there may be a sheared flywheel key.

Of course I'm having a little fun, but these are all things that plague the Kohler engines.

It's always the simple shit that shuts down a mower.

@six5crèéd feel free to quote the list and make a poll.

Let's see what the squad thinks and hopefully we get a results within a few days.

 

#2

 

Maaaannn, now I have some pressure to fix the turd! I will keep everyone updated. I'm hoping that it's the seat switch, maybe I gets lucky and it is something simple/dumb. The PO did change the starter solenoid, that didn't do it. He wanted to show me that the motor wasn't seized by jumping to the batt side of the solenoid, then use a screw driver to jump it. I took the cable and grounded to the frame then touched the stud on the started with the hot lead, it cranked right over. The key isn't sending the exciter signal to the solenoid, that screams a 'safety switch' to me.

 

True, I agree. It also makes me need to add another choice to my list.

It's good you are aware that many are excited to see what you find.

 

#4... fuel problem

 

New poll done!

 

I'm guessing the fuel solenoid has something to do with it, could have water in the carb and the solenoid did it's job or it needs a new one or bypassed.

 

My guess is it’s a pile of crap
Or electrical

 

Damn, a poll... That's kinda weird and funny at the same time! I farted around with it today, I didn't get very far. The battery had 7.5 lightning bolts inside of it. I don't have an automotive battery charger so I took it to Battery Warehouse where they tried to give it some energy, it wasn't taking any. The sticker on the battery said 2017 so I wasn't going to waste anymore time with it. I got a new one for about $55. I had to make a new battery cable after finding this.


It still wont crank over, BUT I now have an 11.7V signal from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The seat safety switch is good, I tested it and got continuity out of it. I can now also hear a "relay" clicking when I have the key on and I push down on the seat. I can't find/see the relay but I can hear it. I also found a fuse holder with a 30A fuse which was good. I have current on both ends of the fuse. When the key is in the 'run' position, all 3 leads going to the ignition module have battery voltage at the terminals. I don't know if that's good or bad. I need to locate a schematic for this pig and find/test the interlocks as a 1st step.

I keep eyeing the starting solenoid with some suspicion. The ground lug is good- I put the test probe on it and touch the + terminal on the battery, I see battery voltage. I might pull the one off of the White mower tomorrow ( it's a known good one) and see if that makes a difference.

How do the fuel pumps work on those engines? I don't see any electrical leads feeding it.

 

Should have a vacuum supplied fuel pump or a mechanical version that is attached to one of the valve covers.

 

Did you apply/set brake when trying to crank it? Mine wont crank if it doesnt have brake pushed or brake set

 

Sears stuff always has a model number sticker or plate. Find it and post the number. Usually it's like XXX.XXXXXXXXXXXXX

 

Yes, the parking brake is set. The FP seems to be attached to the top cover.

 

917 273080

 

The owners manual has an electrical (and some other) diagrams. Here is a link to download...
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/ma...man-917273080-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts

 

Any chance you can snap some pics of the engine?

I'm sure more accurate suggestions could be offered.

Most engines are easy to hot wire. Once you know you got a runner, the details come easy.

 

Yeah the engine might not be original? The owners manual says 22hp, but Walter said his mower has a 24hp.