4x4 Issues, Front diff actuator or t-case actuator?

I'm having the exact same issue. I believe the ADD actuator gear timing may be out of place. I replaced and properly time the t case actuator yesterday so I am going to time the ADD tonight.

 

Look at my Instagram highlight on how to fix Tacoma 4WD

Instagram: @socalexpeditions

I replaced the entire T case.

 

Hey Broccoli,

Did you ever get around to doing this? Do you have a link for properly timing the gear? Its been a while since I looked into this and I don't recall if I crossed anything about that.

 

sub'd

 

DO NOT USE DORMAN replacement parts..... I just uploaded a YouTube video on my front Diff Actuator troubles and fix. One owner 2005 Sequoia with only 70k miles. Flashing 4hi and wouldn’t engage between 2 and 4wd. Initial repair used a Dorman and it failed. OEM worked.

https://youtu.be/dF7Lo_woG-k


A new OEM Actuator was put in yesterday andtruck now works back to normal. It was the Dorman part for sure!

Another video that shows that Dormanactuators fail and to only use OEM:
https://youtu.be/cFSgkQ9zW7I

 

You can remove the 4 phillips head screws on front diff actuator and pull it off then you will see a gear turn it counter clock wise that will lock diff in 4x4 get inside and switch to either 4hi or 4lo when you wanna unlock all you gotta do is switch back to 2hi and put in reverse.. Your front diff will still be locked but want pull bc transfercase isn't

 

https://youtu.be/CLJY8mZ6GBA

this guy shows how to trouble shoot and replace the part.

 

Those thread revivals, love em!



Forget the entire system, install FJ Cruiser Manual Transfer case.

 

The video left out alot. One top bolt to remove the actuator is nearly impossible. Also getting the actuate fork over the drum is very difficult. The big problem is making sure the actuator fork and the truck are both set in 2wd or 4wd, I have yet to find instructions for that procedure.

 

if you remove the front mounts you can pivot down and access with no issue. There’s no procure to align you just have to set the fork in the collar as appropriate and the ECM will move the shift fork where it needs to be if it’s not in the correct position.

 

Sorry to be the thread necromancer but...

So how I got to this point is I got stuck stuck not just kinda stuck in some soupy mud that the truck sat in over night. When it came out the guy pulling got a little throttle happy and it and the mud ripped the right CV axle out of the diff. I was going to spin the tires to break the suction when he pulled but he pulled before I was ready. After that the 4x light was flashing. after I spent $40 at the carwash and got the axle fixed I narrowed it down to the actuator. it was all clean and dry inside and just needed some solder. When I got it back together the light goes out but it still wont go into 4x4 and when I switch it the light blinks again until I shut the truck off and then the light goes out. I can hear some clicking from the diff. when I move it. What would be my next move? I don't mind just replacing the actuator but didn't want to drop the coin if I have another problem. I did loose some fluid and have new fluid to put in but haven't in case I need to pull it off again.

 

Did you get the actuator installed correctly on the sliding collar?

If your up for checking voltages we can see where everything is and what is out of range.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-system-operation-help-thread.742420/

 

I am assuming that its right but I haven't had a chance to check it yet and hope to tomorrow afternoon. I have a cheap multimeter somewhere and could probably figure it out.

 

Why wouldn't you have opened up the new Actuator and soldered the terminals together? That is a known failure point.

Better fix: FJ Tcase swap....

 

Already been done homie

 

What readings are expected on the position switches?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-system-operation-help-thread.742420/

 

Ya I’ve read through and tested that. Seems that it is one of the position sensors at the transfer case, which i have pulled out. One reads 5ohms and open, other reads 1.5 ohms. Unless you can point me to where in the other thread he tests anywhere other than the voltage at the glove box, i am hoping to get the readings for the sensors themselves

 

Which switch voltages are out of range at the ECU?

I'm assuming your trying to check the 4wd and L4 detection switches on the back of the Transfer Case Actuator?
They should be open circuit (OL) when the ball is released and closed (0 ohms) when the ball is depressed.

 

Yes checking those switches. Getting open and then different ohms depending on sensor.
In 2wd all the sensors are reading correctly
In 4h TL1 is reading 0 instead of 12
TL2 is reading at 12v instead of 0
And L4 and DL1 are reading at 11.3-11.6 v for some reason (assuming this isnt a problem)